hi I'm Paul Brodie and this is my shop Mitch is behind the camera as usual thank you and  

we have a segment today on Aramaki I know most  of you have never heard about Aramaki but I'll  

explain a little bit a little bit about that we're  gonna make a swing arm I've got a swing arm off a  

stock bike which has been cut the cross tube is  off it if you want to know what an air Macky is  

well look right here this is a 1970 350 Aramaki  and right here it's the same swing arm so weird  

we're using a swing arm off this style of a  bike which is 50 years old this is this is  

very hard for hard for me to make because it's  waged there's been a large press with a lot of  

tongues and I think they put an extra tube or  something inside and then they squash it and  

they bend it as well I can't do that so I like to  use this piece and this has to be extended this  

is inch and a half chromoly it's oh nine five you  can see it's a nice thick wall and we're going to  

machine this down we're going to add a tube on  we're going to weld it round and then this here  

is the cross tube we're gonna miter these two  tubes put it on there use the surface table and  

we're gonna build a swing arm so what I want to  show you here the first thing we're gonna do is  

go to the mill haven't bead blasted off the paint  here I've filed this surface flat that was fairly  

flat but when I start to file this you can see  how it's a bit Hollow on each side so it's not  

flat so what I did on the other one I put it  on the mill and I took a little skim Cup with a  

fly cutter so let's go to the mill now and I'll  do the same to this one as I did with this one

so we'll take this out now and I'm gonna show you  what comes next so I have to machine this down so  

one thing I want to do is I want to see where the  bend actually stops so if I look in the light it  

looks to me right about this so I'll make a mark  with my felt pen we're gonna go over to the lathe  

I'm gonna hold this in the Chuck and I'm going to  machine from here to here let's see I machine from  

here to here and then I cut this off and then  this - it's gonna slide over its going to be  

a nice tight fit I'm going to change the compound  I'm gonna put a slight angle on it so that we can  

cut a little taper on the very end of the tube  so probably three degrees something pretty small

we'll go back to the workbench I've got my  micrometer I got a telescoping gauge we're  

gonna figure out the ID what it is okay that's my  size one point three one one five so we're going  

to go back to the lathe now you can hold that in  the Chuck this is going to swing around because  

it's off-center obviously there's a bend and then  we're going to machine a section about that long

I'm at 3 1 1 2 so I need to take off  half a sow so I'm gonna sand that pick  

up 1 1 5 okay that one's good now  we just have to do the other one

we'll go after the belts and and now  we'll put a nice nice easy shampoo on  

there so it helps it to feed into the  larger tube I've got some press lube  

here this is what you use when you're on  the hydraulic press sometimes and you've  

got interference fit and you want it to  go in smoothly so it's a lubricant you  

go just a little bit inside so it should  start to go on there that's a nice fit

that's exactly what I wanted so that is that  size on size when when the OD of the smaller  

tube is exactly the same as the ID of the  larger tube that's a size on size fit so  

we do the same thing on number two now this  one so this one's a little bit looser just a  

touch loose of it there you go still going on  tight that's good I'm very happy with that so  

next step is a little bit of TIG welding  we'll go over to the welding table now

okay it's all welded up so the arms are the same  length so I've got my my combination square and I  

set it up right like that see I made a little  little mark right there so when I put the the  

second arm in there I've got a way to double check  it oh look at that it's out about a quart almost a  

quarter of an inch so it's a good thing we checked  oh it just fits look at that nice so I shouldn't  

have to put too much force on it with something  this big and that is too much so it's gonna come  

back just a little bit just a touch there you  go that's good for me I've got an axle I've got  

a dummy axle this is the same size as the hub  we'll put the axle aide I always want to have  

the axle all the way forward that's the dummy  axle this is the other side at the Machine up  

a spacer just so I can make this process work this  rectangle here is the cross tube and I've got the  

tube cut to size that's my that's my rear tire so  I've got clearance on either side just looking at  

to see that it's equal looks pretty good there I'm  gonna make them make a line right down here there  

we go it looks like 11 degrees so in class if I'm  doing a class I do M 11 M stands for mightor this  

is the easiest way to market put a combination  set right up to the corner like that press down  

take your lock so what this does is I can I can  take out this and I can put the next one in and  

I have to come up against the stop I can't have a  space there I need to go back against the stop put  

in the extra V block and then I make it tight so  that's going to work for both sides edging up it's  

a two-handed jog so I as I as I pull the whole saw  down I'm edging up to the line a little bit more

that's good I'm going to lock the table here  lock the x-axis and and we'll take a cut

I'm on the second side now we're going  to my to that and because I have a stop  

here that means I don't have to put any  felt pen mark I don't have to edge the  

whole sore up to it or anything I just I  put it in I clamp it tight I make my cut

off to the belt sander next

check again

no that's pretty good so I'm going to the lathe  now I'll take I'll take the coating off of this  

and then we'll set it up on the surface table  and we'll do some tacking here is the surface  

table and this is is the cross tube for the  swingarm we're going to use the head tube  

holder again that's going to hold the cross tube  so we'll take off the clamp and the cone cross  

tube the Kohen we've got the ramping system here  we talked about that last video that is on lock  

it pull it that will not move now so I've got  this here that can't go forward so what I need  

to look for here is equal spacing on both sides  and I'm happy with that so I need to hook up the  

ground clamp now to the surface table and then  we'll do some tacking and then I can weld it

all right it's tack welded

okay well it up now we have to miter the cross  tube it's a curved tube that fits around the  

back tire here's the cross tube it's chromoly it's  a little a little less wall thickness it's all six  

five so that could go something like like that  that's a hacksaw line right there and then we're  

gonna mighta right there so can you see how it's  it's slanting down a little bit so we're gonna  

loosen the vise see how we give it a little  tap how's that looking that looks pretty good

so this side has a bit off it we can  go from here we can go into the line  

and see if that's level and it's not quite  so give it a little tap that's pretty level

one curve - let's go see how it fits

I like that well that's pretty good look  at that it's too wide okay so it's still a  

little bit wide but I still have to weld in  the plate and I seem to remember last time  

that when I weld it in the plate even though  I had had the BRIT I call this a bridge tube  

even though the bridge too was in there it  still pulled in so this is good maybe I'm  

going to put a little bit of tension on this  anyway so my next thing to do is to take a  

piece of cardboard and to cut out a template  for the sheet metal that goes in there I've  

got some sixteenth inch sheet metal and that's  going to be that's going to make this swing um  

very strong draw a line on either side so  I want to go a little less than half way

I'm just guessing here where I want to be

that fits pretty good

so what I have to do now is to have two  belts and off this off the black that's  

an oxide because this is hot rolled sheet  steel it's got the got the black on it and  

then once I do that weld it up check the  alignment we're good I got a belt sander  

here I got this from Tom Ritchie way I went  down to see him in 1984 looked around his  

shop and this was lying on the floor and I  said what's that he said that's my old belt  

sander I said is it for sale so I got it  for thirty bucks still use it all the time

thanks Tom so I'm just gonna hope this  is hard to hold by hand so I'll just  

use a c-clamp here and all I'm doing is  taking off just making the real edge shiny

okay good so I got a piece of metal that's  just to hold it down while I put a little  

tack on each corner okay you're just  some welding now see what happens

so one thing when I'm TIG welding  sometimes I see how far I have to  

go and I just make sure that I  know that I can go the whole way

okay the brace is welded in oh look at that it's  just a little bit I I can pull that in that's  

not bad I'd rather have it a little bit wider  than a little bit narrower so next step is to  

see on the surface table how we did it's got a  little bit there we could we can pull that down

so almost touching the table they're  almost just a touch but I can fix that  

up thank you very much for watching our  video hope to see you again stay safe