so we're back at the rig I'm using to simulate  the 2 plate method that's where we take the supply  

or feed to the switch so here we've got the line  neutral and CPC from the consumer unit be in taken  

directly down to a switch from the switch we've  got a switching line neutral and CPC coming up  

to the lighting point that we're simulating in the  ceiling the reason we said we'd use the two plate  

method would be to reduce the number of cables  at the lighting point itself so that makes it  

easier for us to fit things like LED downlight  so what I'm going to do in this presentation  

is actually swap out the batten lamp holder for  two LED downlights I'm going to use the easy-fit  

connector from Collinwood in order to make my  connections it means I'll have coming in one cable  

with a switching line neutral and CPC and then go  out to my second downlight with another switching  

line neutral and CPC says we're doing this part  of the presentation let's take this apart an order  

that we can get to the cable so in the real  world you wouldn't have perhaps had a batten  

lamp holder you would have wired it directly  into your down lights let's get rid of this  

from the first part of the presentation I did or  explain the connections let's undo my conductors  

take off my batten lamp holder then we can look at  using these easy quick connectors hopefully I've  

got a little bit better I did a video on those  the first time I'd use them so let's get rid of

and take this off so remember this would all  be done in the ceiling I'm just simulating it  

for testing purposes which might be a second  video so got my cables exposed got my easy  

fit connector okay so we've got switching line  CPC and neutral cord grips up here make sure we  

get these at the right length so the time being  I'm gonna get rid of a clip that look to dress  

in my cables like so so straightaway we're the  wrong way around but this would be in a ceiling  

so I'm just gonna twist it over for the time  being just to make it easier so let's get that  

out of the way there and we can now look at  making some of these connections so let's get  

it down to length there is a length specified  within the actual body itself but see if we can  

work it out do the same one on the line itself  like so break all the rules I have a college  

just nip off my conductors let's get rid of a CPC  sleeve into length as well hope I'm not too long

snip on back maybe a fraction longer over  another one pulled up on it so here we go  

so let's push our Neutral connection in which  our line connection in like so then we'll follow  

it with our CPC connection into that position  there anything is the cord grip probably see how  

easy how to take out so probably the done we're  going in for the cord grip there hopefully these  

slides straight back in just proves a really good  point this does let's move the CPC across now you  

can see why they call it an easy-fit connectors  because obviously wrong side of the cord grip bang  

we're back to the right side of the cord grip  we made our connections like so all we need to  

do now is obviously add another one to go to my  next downlight so my first cable is in position  

I'm just going to slide the second pointing  I've already pre prepared the end so in through  

here it's just a case of getting them lined up  correctly into the right positions so there we  

go and then just pushing them home so now they are  connected can't pull those out they're fully in so  

position them within their cord grips now like so  and then it's just a matter of lever in this into  

position so those back section goes on first and  clip the front section down and we've made our  

easy fit connector now so cord grips are in place  can't pull those out conductors are in you can see  

clearly in there as well for a visual polarity  you can see the neutral CPC and line conductor  

as well we're ready to prepare the second end  for another one of these and then obviously the  

connection for the actual downlight itself so I'm  ready to make the connections on the other end of  

already prepared the cable itself you've already  seen me do that just show you again how easy these  

are to separate two sections and then to open  these up there's a little window in here you push  

your screwdriver into both sides of those and then  you should be able to just leave the two sections  

apart like so the only thing I will keep saying  is to myself is this cord grip thing or remember  

to make sure I get the cables into it before I  start so let's position it like so let's go if  

the cord grips up put it underneath keep missing  that and then obviously we need to just locate our  

positions so there there there and just push them  firmly into place and see how easy that was to get  

that in position it onto the cord grip section and  then the back goes in first like so and then we  

just close down the front in order to clip the two  sections together cord grips in place and again  

you can clearly see your connections within there  so that was a straight forward we've now just got  

prepare the other end for both the LED downlights  next so we're going to prepare the connector for  

the end for the LED downlight there's two screws  in here in order to separate the two sections so  

we open those up be careful not to lose the  screws this if you're on a ladder obviously  

stepladder trying to do them in the ceiling you'll  be careful we can't lose those because you do need  

to undo them to separate the sections so as they  come out in order to separate the two sections  

so we're like so and then we've got to make our  connections according to determinations in here  

neutral line it's double insulated so it doesn't  need the CPC again undo the screw undo the screw  

hopefully just slide our connections in like so  tighten those back up back up so there in position  

okay just to prove it to you see the LED downlight  is double insulated so no CPC we know it's metal  

but it's double insulated so it doesn't need a CPC  connection then we've just got rebuild these back  

together like so the screws back here and the  only awkward would part of that he's dropping  

obviously these screws from a pair of steps and  then having to find them again and that's our  

connection they're made LED downlights and you can  see that we can just easily push those together  

like so and as you can see through them you've  got an easy polarity visual check the neutral  

this side goes through to the neutral the lamp  the switching line this side goes through to the  

switching line on the lamp and you cannot put it  in the reverse way round so for us to go wrong way  

around won't actually physically go in there's  a nice little touch let's do the next one so I  

made the second one off-camera so ready to connect  back up like so and we can now hopefully see the  

thinking behind the two plate method we only have  at this lighting point in the ceiling switching  

line neutral and CPC coming in and going out and  then we carry on for as many downlights as we want  

and obviously the last one only has the one cable  in making fewer connections at the light and point  

itself and therefore easier for the electrician  to install and another video presentation when  

we go on and do the continuity CPC polarity and  insulation resistance test of this circuit because  

i like the fact that obviously for an insulation  resistance test we have to remove all loads and  

this is currently connected so it's connect  across line and neutral and would cause you  

issues during your insulation resistance test  if not damaged the actual fittings themselves  

but look at this you just go and you can easily  disconnect them to carry out your insulation  

resistance test with all loads removed so until  the next time i hope this video has been some help

you