So, you've decided to build your own PC? Congratulations, you've made the right choice.

By building your own PC, you’re entering a world of serious power, customization, and

cutting edge tech.

Whether you bought your parts individually, or got them all at once in one of Newegg’s

pre-selected kits, you’ve come to the right place.

This video will walk you through all the different parts you’ll need to assemble a typical

PC build, and we’ll teach you what you need to know to go from a bunch of freshly opened

Newegg boxes to a fully operational PC battlestation.

Before we get started, here are a few important things to remember:

First, it’s a good idea to research build compatibility before moving forward.

Sometimes small cases don’t work with big internal parts, so look around online and

confirm dimensions as much as you can in order to avoid problems later on.

Second, when it comes to that actual build, never force anything.

For the most part these components are pretty tough, but if you get the feeling something

isn’t fitting right, double check.

Look online for more information on the specific part you’re having trouble with, and carefully

examine the pieces that are supposed to be fitting together.

This should keep you from accidentally breaking any of your new hardware.

Next, keep your workspace clean and organized.

It’s easy to lose screws and small pieces, and keeping everything close at hand and easy

to find will make the process much easier.

Finally, keep your build unplugged while you’re working on it.

These parts are designed to be safe, but precautions never hurt.

Only plug in power when you’re ready to turn it on.

And when making adjustments, don’t touch anything inside your case without unplugging

first.

With all that all of the way, let’s get to building!

It all starts with the motherboard.

This is the component that brings everything together.

There are a ton of different motherboards of all different shapes and sizes, and the

one you selected will be dependent on the CPU you’re planning to use.

The primary distinction between different motherboards is which CPU brand they support:

Intel or AMD.

Both are fine choices, you just want to make sure your motherboard and CPU are compatible.

If you're working from one of our kits, we've taken care of that for you.

A PC build starts with what is arguably the most important step in the building process…getting

the CPU into the motherboard.

If the motherboard is the heart of your build, the CPU is the brains of the operation, the

Processing Powerhouse that does the brunt of the work that makes your computer capable

of all the awesome things it’s about to do.

It’s also one of the more fragile components, so it’s good to be careful with this one.

To avoid damaging the CPU, do NOT touch the golden contacts on the underside of the processor.

Properly handling your CPU should look something like this…

Do that, and you’ll be good to go.

To install the CPU, first open the socket by unlatching the latch like this:

And reveal the contacts.

Again, try not to touch those, as you want to make sure they aren’t bent.

Your motherboard might look a little different depending on your CPU, but the process is

similar for every board.

Just get the latch up, and get those contacts exposed.

Next, you’re going to want to look closely at the socket.

You should see a corresponding indication on the motherboard and the CPU.

Both Intel and AMD have tiny triangle indicators that show you the right orientation for the

part, while Intel has an additional set of notches to make it even more obvious.

If you pay close attention it should be fairly obvious how and where the CPU fits.

Carefully place the CPU in the socket, oriented correctly, until it’s resting flat in its

natural habitat.

Do NOT force it in, just make sure it’s flush and flat.

It should look and feel right; with no corners hanging out or crooked lines.

Next you’re going to bring the latch back down, and the metal casing with it.

Once it’s over the CPU, pull it down tightly, and re-latch it underneath the metal bar like

You might have to push down a bit hard for this part, but as long as your CPU is seated

correctly, that’s okay.

With that latch down the CPU should be snug and secure in place.

Again, your CPU and motherboard might look a little different than what we have here,

but the process is essentially the same.

All done?

Congrats!

You’ve completed the most important step!

Now let’s move on to keeping that powerful little piece of tech from overheating.

We do that with CPU coolers, of which there are two different types.

Air Cooling (meaning fan based) and liquid cooling (which means...you guessed it, liquid

based.)

Both have their strengths and weaknesses, but either one will work to keep your CPU

cool and happy.

It’s hard to show you exactly how to install your specific cooler, because there are quite

a few variations in brands and installation procedures, but most will require you to install

a plate on the back of the motherboard, and will need to be attached from the front.

That’s why we’re doing this now, instead of after the motherboard is in the case.

Before you start your cooler installation, you’re going to want to make sure you have

space for your RAM.

You should be able to tell by placing the cooling unit roughly over the CPU.

If it’s blocking your RAM slots, which look like this…

You might need to get a smaller cooler.

Before we actually attach the cooler, we need to apply thermal paste to the CPU.

This silvery substance allows heat to transfer properly between the two metal surfaces.

Too much thermal paste and you’ll stifle the transfer, not enough and not enough heat

will get through.

The amount you’re looking for should be between the size of a grain of rice and a

pea, placed right on the center of the CPU like so:

When you finish installing the cooler, it will push down on the paste blob, and evenly

disperse it across the surface of the CPU.

That’s what you want.

If you see any spilling over the sides, it means you used too much, and you need to clean

it off.

You can see an example of us installing coolers here, and the main principle should be roughly

the same.

This is where instructions come in.

Your CPU cooler will come with everything you need to complete the process.

If you stay organized and follow every step, you’ll have the cooler correctly attached

in no time.

Next you’re going to want to plug the cable from the fan into your motherboard's fan header.

to make sure it has power.

Some higher end motherboards may have headers that say things like “CPU Optional” or

“AIO pump.”

These are mainly used for custom water cooling purposes.

The cable to connect your cooler should have three or four holes, and match to a three

or four pinned port near the cooling unit that says fan header, or something similar.

If you have a fan based cooling system, that’s it!

You’re done installing the cooler!

If you’re using an All In One, or AIO liquid cooling system, there’s one more step that

will come up later in the build process, but either way it’s time to move on.

Next up, let’s get some storage in there.

This is an M DOT 2 drive, AKA a super fast Solid State Drive, or SSD.

If you have one in your build we’ll show you how to install it, but if you don’t

then this next part won’t apply to you.

An M DOT 2 drive plugs directly into the motherboard, and doesn't require a cable like traditional

hard drives or SSDs.

We’ll go over those later.

It varies by motherboard, but you’re looking for a slot that looks like this

Or this:

It might be hidden underneath a heatsink as well, in which case you’re going to want

to remove it.

Next, you’re simply going to slide the M dot 2 d rive into the slot.

You should be able to tell which direction it’s supposed to go based on the indentation

in the contact point of the drive.

It should slide in easily, and though it might be at a weird angle due to the resistance,

that’s nothing to worry about.

Some drives may require an extra part called a standoff, which should be included.

Make sure it’s in there tightly, and if you’re using a vertical orientation follow

the additional steps in the instructions with the drive to finish the installation.

Now let’s move on to RAM.

Whether you have four sticks of memory or two, the installation process is going to

be roughly= the same.

To keep your hardware clean, avoid touching the touch the metal contact points while handling

the sticks.

First you’re going to want to take a peek at the RAM slots.

There should be a break in the lane, either closer to the bottom or the top.

Check out the contact points of the RAM.

Do you see that corresponding break?

You’re going to line them up so they correspond, then slide the RAM into the slot.

The two small latches will audibly click into place when the stick is properly inserted.

You might need to use some elbow grease to get them in here, but if it feels like they’re

not going in properly, double check the orientation and try again.

When you think it’s in place, push down on each end to verify neither side is popping up.

To get maximum RAM speed, refer to your motherboard manual for the proper placement order.

It’s best to use RAM from the same company that was all purchased at the same time, so

keep that in mind.

All done?

Nice.

Your motherboard is looking good!

One more step before we get it in your case.

The Input/output shield, or I/O shield, is used to protect the build from static, and

to keep evil evil dust out.

It’s easy to forget this important step, and having to take the entire motherboard

out is a pain, so let’s make sure to put it in right now.

It will vary from motherboard to motherboard, as every board has different port placement,

but the one that came with your motherboard is the one you’re going to want to use.

Line it up with the ports on your motherboard so you know the correct orientation.

Then, you’re going to pop it into the case right here.

You might have to really push it, but you’re going to want to make sure it's in there real good.

Once the I/O shield is good to go, it’s time for your motherboard to move to its new

home.

Cases come in all shapes and sizes, so again, yours might look very different.

The fundamental design of most cases is the same though.

First thing, you’re going to remove the thumbscrews that allow you to take both of

the side panels off and show off your cases’ interior.

Remember, you’re going to want to keep track of these little guys.

Put them somewhere safe, along with the side panels.

Next you’re going to want to lay your case on its side like this, preferably on a soft

surface to keep from scratching your case or your table.

All these cables here?

We’ll deal with them later, so make sure they stay together, and tuck them out of the

way for now.

Next, you’re going to see the space where your motherboard is going to go.

You’ll see a series of holes that correlate to the screw holes scattered around your motherboard.

If the holes in the case are empty, look for these little parts called standoffs-

And screw them in the those holes in the case.

These will keep the motherboard from touching the metal of the case and causing potential

shorts.

Once the standoffs are in, line up the holes on your motherboard, and lay it in there.

Next you’re going to use the included screws to attach the motherboard to the standoffs,

and therefore to the case.

You want to make sure the board can’t move at all, but you don’t need to screw them

down TOO tightly.

We don’t want any bending or damage to the motherboard.

Once all the screws are in, and your motherboard isn’t moving, it’s on to the next step.

Now we’re going to install any other hard drives you may have.

If you have a SATA SSD or Hard Drive, it’s time to get those in there.

First, you’re going to want to find the appropriate placement for your drives.

Many cases have hard drive bays for 2.5 inch drives or 3.5 inch drives.

Like so much of the build process, your specific case will probably have a different layout.

There might even be some hard drive storage areas on the other side of the case, behind

the motherboard.

If you have plenty of options, feel free to pick whatever placement you want.

As long as the drive is secure and doesn’t move when you lift the case, place your drives

wherever you’d like.

Check your case manual to see SATA drive placement options, and how exactly to install them.

It’s usually pretty easy, just a thumbscrew or a simple drive bay.

This 3.5 inch hard drive went in through the back of the case.

We pulled out the simple plastic mount and then popped it right back in.

The 2.5 inch SATASSD mount on this case is right here, and it attached easily.

All this awesome hardware generates a lot of heat, so we want to make sure everything

is sufficiently cool.

There are a few different ways of cooling your system, from simple fans to custom cooling

loops, to submerging your entire build in mineral oil.

We’re going to keep things simple here and go with the most common cooling solution,

and that’s fans.

There are tons of options when it comes to fans.

You can spend as much as you want, and though all fans are good at blowing air, there are

plenty of extras if you want to spring for it, like RGB fans that turn all different

colors.

Most cases come with a few fans and those are probably fine, but feel free to

add as many as you like.

I’m starting to sound like a broken record, but where you put your fans depends on the

case you have, and personal preference.

It’s usually a good idea to leave fans where they are if they’re already installed, but

you can always add more.

Fans usually live near the top, front, and back of the case, as you can see here -

Again, you’re going to want to look at instructions, but pretty much anywhere there’s an opening,

and a place to install it, you can put a fan in with a few screws.

You want air to be moving through the system, drawn in through the front and top, blasted

over your heat generating components, and ejected from the back.

The direction of the fins will establish the flow.

The back of the fan is identified by 4 cross bars.

As long as you confirm air flow is properly directed, there shouldn't be much to worry

about as far as heat goes.

Just like the fan on your CPU cooler, you’re going to need to attach your fans to the motherboard

for power.

Any modern motherboard has plenty of fan headers, so make sure you track them down and carefully

plug in the cables.

You’ll want to plug them into the closest header to avoid criss-crossing wires.

If you have an all-in-one liquid cooling system, this is the point in the build when you’ll

want to install your radiator.

First you’ll want to install your radiator fan or fans, with the goal being to blast

the heat from the radiator out of your case.

Next, install your radiator on the top, front, or back of your new PC.

Be careful, as the clearance for this step will often be tight, depending on your case.

Alright, you’ve got your fans installed and plugged in.

Your system is coming together, but how do we power everything?

What you need is a Power Supply Unit, or PSU box of electricity may have a huge tangle

of cables coming out of the back, or, if you purchased a modular PSU, the cables might

all be separated.

Where your power supply goes in your case may vary, but it’s usually on the bottom

with modern cases.

You’ll usually see a square area with four screws.

Slide your PSU in there, and make sure the fan is facing the vent in the case.

Use the provided screws to lock the power supply in place.

This is where we start bringing in tons of cables, so let’s take a second to discuss

cable management.

While you can have a functional build with cables all over the place, having a clean,

organized placement for your cables is important for two reasons.

First, it looks SO much better.

Secondly, and more importantly, messy cables can have a negative effect on airflow.

Good airflow means lower temperatures and better performance.

Most modern cases are designed with efficient cable management in mind, so it’s not terribly

difficult.

It takes a little more time to keep your cabling clean, but you've come this far, you might

as well finish up strong!

So let’s take a look at all the components in your build so far.

Every little piece needs power, and the PSU is just what you need for the job.

On the motherboard, you’ll see two areas that require power cables.

A 24 pin motherboard power connector and a 4 or 8 pin CPU connector (and some high-end

motherboards may have an additional CPU power connector).

Placement of these connectors may vary depending on the board, but this is what they look like-

The hard drives need power too, so look out for this-

To get everything powered you’ll need to find the corresponding power cables on the

PSU.

If it’s a modular power supply, this should be fairly easy, if it’s a traditional PSU,

you might have to deal with a little bit of tangle.

The next step is to simply plug the cable from your PSU into the corresponding component.

This can be a little tricky depending on the layout of your case, but be patient.

Your case will probably have holes and cabling opportunities that are there just for this reason.

The basic idea is to get cables from the PSU to your components that need power while trying

to keep the cables organized and out of sight.

The back of the case is critical for this.

Usually, only one side of the case is designed to be viewed, so the trick is to keep that

as clean as possible, while the back can look a little more cable heavy.

Remember those hard drives?

Now that they have power, they also need a SATA cable so they can transfer information

to the motherboard.

SATA cables look like this-

And the SATA ports on the motherboard look like this-

So just like you did with the power supply, use a SATA cable to connect the two, and do

your absolute best to keep them out of sight and away from the fans.

All that’s left is connecting power!

Most motherboards have a power switch built in, in case you need to test it without a

case, but reaching into your case every time you want to restart is pretty inefficient,

so let's get the buttons and ports on your case hooked up and ready to rock.

Remember that bundle of cables I told you to move out of the way earlier, the ones that

came with the case?

For our final step, it’s time to hook those up so we can power on our creation the easy way!

Like you did with the power cables, you simply need to look at each cable closely, and find

the corresponding port on the motherboard.

These little cables are what make the switches and LED indicators on your case work.

The cables have negative and positive indicators on them, and there are corresponding symbols

on the motherboard and the case connections.

They are small, and can be hard to see, so you might want to use a flashlight.

Match them up, connect them all, and you’ll be good to go.

The final big step in your build is installing the Video card, AKA the Graphics Processing

Unit, or GPU.

Regardless of the brand of your video card, or whether it uses Nvidia or AMD architecture,

you’re going to install it pretty much the same way.

Your GPU is going to need a PCIe lane.

Most cases will have some sort of barrier protecting the inside of the case from dust

and debris, and you’re going to need to get it out of the way so your GPU can get

in there.

Sometimes you have to unscrew these slot barriers, sometimes they just pop right out.

How many you want to remove depends on the size of your GPU.

If you have a single slot card, a standard double slot card, or even a monster triple

slot beast, you’re going to want to remove however many shields necessary for your GPU

to fit.

Again, keep track of any extra screws or extra parts and set them aside.

Once there’s room, you’re going to want to pick up your GPU carefully, again, avoiding

the contact points, and insert it into the PCIe slot.

Check this out to get a feel for it-

Look closely to make sure everything is lined up.

Every case is different, and there might be slots or discrepancies that need to be accounted for.

Once it’s in you should hear a snap, and, as with the RAM, the little latch will be

engaged.

If you want to remove the GPU for whatever reason, you’re going to want to depress

that latch before pulling it out.

Now that your GPU is placed correctly, use the screws you have from removing the shields

to keep it in place.

It should be in there very securely, and difficult to move.

GPUs will often have their own power connectors, depending on your model.

If yours does, plug it in from the power supply.

Everything installed?

Then you’re done!

The build is complete!

You did it!

Don’t close your case up just yet, just plug in your monitor, mouse and keyboard,

and, finally, the power cable that came with your PSU.

Plug that sucker in, and flip the power switch on the PSU.

Take a deep breath, and hit the power button on your case.

If it spins up, all your fans start running, and you see your motherboard logo on your

display, congratul-freakin-lations, your build works!

If your build didn’t boot up the way you were hoping, don’t worry.

Seriously, it happens to everyone who builds PCs.

Troubleshooting your build is no fun, but it’s not as daunting as it seems.

The first thing is to review every step of this guide, and trace your cabling.

Nine times out of ten, it’s a forgotten wire or a loose component.

Double check that your RAM is seated properly.

Double check that your power connections to your motherboard are correct.

Make sure that the power switch and reset switch are hooked up to the right areas.

If you’ve got a modular PSU, make sure your cables are snapped in and clipped on properly.

The same goes for your motherboard power connectors.

And check to see if you’ve confused the 8 pin CPU power and the 8 pin PCIE power connectors.

Usually they’re marked.

But just in case, the CPU power cable splits into two sets of four, and the other power

cable is for the GPU.

If nothing powered on when you pressed the button on your case, test the motherboard

with the power switch on the board itself.

Did it boot?

That means you need to rewire the power switches from the case.

If you can’t nail down the problem with these steps, you can to remove components

one by one, see if the boots, and if it does, you’ll know the problem was the part you

just removed.

It’s not usually a faulty component, but that can happen, and then it’s time for

an RMA.

Troubleshooting can be frustrating, but if you’re careful, and meticulous, you’ll

get to the bottom of it.

Once your build is up and running in all its glorious gloriousness, you’ll know it was

all worth it.

Great job using the PC build kit for your very own custom PC.