sometimes called a stud wall you use the skills  in order to fit that into the wall to facilitate  

a new socket this presentation isn't about wiring  the socket it's purely about cutting the box into  

the stud wall itself with drylined wall whatever  you want to call it so this box cut into this  

wall okay I'm going to look on the other side  and see how we're going to make sure that we  

don't clash with any of the struts we can't see  any of the upright supports they are metallic in  

this installation but we can't see we presume this  one here to hold the frame we presume they'll use  

a 400 mm gap but we need to be a little bit more  precise because it's not kind of hole in the wall  

that potentially will hit one of those struts  and obviously be them down so I didn't have to  

be patched in the box been moved so when I look on  the other side of wall and see how we can work out  

we're going to put it this side of the wall not  to clash with any of those struts so I'll come  

to this side of the wall where the socket this on  the ring final circuit is gonna have the spurred  

socket on the other wall run from it I've isolated  the socket here use the safe isolation procedure  

is discussed in a previous video presentation  it's off and isolated I've removed the box from  

the wall so I can work out where the nearest strut  is or up right to this socket outlet itself so if  

we insert something rigid in this case the 2.5  cable will be perfect until it hits the side of  

the strut so we've got it there hit the strut that  far away if I use my socket outlet on the floor  

I can put back down into position as if that was  the upright and then I can work out 400 which is  

roughly the gap they leave between the uprights I  can work out my 400 so between there roughly 400  

position what box like so the constant being the  doorframe this side our next side we can go and  

we can see at for me that's about 750 ml to the  box the middle of the box should be here which  

should be free from the strut here and free from  the strut there we still don't know it is so I'm  

going to be careful when we start marking out on  the other side but we make sure there is no strut  

or crossmember in there that could clash with the  box but it's a safe bet we're gonna be in a good  

area there 750 in this case from the door frame  it's a bedroom that requires the additional twin  

socket outlet and I'm going to measure 750 off  the door this case comes to roughly about here  

and the socket outlets in this installation are  at a height of 450 millimetres to the bottom to  

allow for people of limited reach so complying  with the latest standards of the regulation so  

I'm going to install my socket in here but I've  kind of confirmed first of all when I mark round  

my box that there is no other obstacles that  could clash with the box when it enters the wall  

position my box on the wall at the correct height  to the bottom of socket and this 750 measurement  

for me for hopefully missing the strikes itself  I've checked each square can take a pencil and  

just draw around the box itself make sure you have  the box to the right way round there is a raised  

flange on the front edge if you were to cut around  that that would give you some massive issues I'll  

show you that in a sec so I've drawn around the  back of the box not to draw around the front the  

other way around obviously we want a nice tight  fit when the box goes in itself so I've got my  

square drawn out now I've got to confirm that I  can take that out so I really do hopefully take  

up the square for the box or itself to support  take my braddell to start with and I lit some  

holes in here to confirm they go into the wall and  therefore not clashing then these struts it could  

be behind corner okay so I put a series of holes  there to confirm there is no metalwork supporting  

the plasterboard in those areas however that's  not enough it could be I'm unlucky and the strut  

is actually this side or potentially this side  for the uprights when these boxes go in they've  

got a solid flat this side flap is the one that  needs to be okay protruding from the box itself  

so it would actually sit there to hold it against  the plaster board if it hits a strut obviously we  

can't put those in and the box is in a position  that's useless so we would have to completely  

move in with cut it out now so we don't want to  do that so what I'm going to do is take along the  

thin screwdriver and I'm going to just insert  it so I can put it in a name and go sideways  

I was going in sideways so I know I'm clear in  that direction the likewise I'm gonna take one  

this way and go sideways as well so I've got it  clear both sides as well now that I can actually  

cut out the box itself we're certainly not going  to be attacking it with a fixed blade knife I've  

seen some presentations but carving away with  a fixed blade you're gonna be doing that that's  

how you slip and cut yourself or make a mess  of the wall itself so we're going to use the  

design tool which is a pad saw okay in order to  cut out the box itself I've got to make one of  

these holes bigger in order just to get the tip  of my pad saw in and I'm just doing gently cut  

out the box I like the box be nice and tight so  sometimes when I've cut out it doesn't quite fit  

in to start with and just have to shave it back  that's not a problem well I don't want to do is  

cut it beyond the lines and make it a lot bigger  so the box obviously moves around we don't want  

that so it's so lets open up one of these holes  and instead of cutting process itself so an open  

up one of the holes okay I can open of the holes  with a screwdriver and you go to the screwdriver  

and then just take my pad saw and run round  the lines i've got just take your time no rush

the moment of truth drop it out fingers go that  way fingers go that way and we haven't here any  

of the struts was we didn't see there when  I was cutting out the box was the fact that  

wearing a pair of goggles wearing a dust mask  I'm very important to keep ourselves safe and  

I worn both during that part of presentation  so box is ready to go in I've taken out the  

two side clips which will facilitate the 3.5  box screws box slips into position and then  

we simply just I say simply but we replace the  side clips the case they pull forward lock in  

the box in so when the socket front goes on the  yellow side clip will pull up and pin between the  

plasterboard this side and the actual box and  the plasterboard this side and the actual box  

to hold it firmly into position this is a level 2  assessment piece and is required to be done under  

examination conditions for us in a workshop  so let's run over the skills required to fit  

a dryline box into a dryline wall so they've done  very often on site with the the faster new builds  

are going up like a lot of internal walls are now  our dry line walls and these boxes are readily  

fitted in the industry so that skills required  for a level 2 assessment there's some help