We are back here at the Field Museum with Alaka Wali,
We are back here at the Field Museum with Alaka Wali,

who is the curator of North American anthropology here,
who is the curator of North American anthropology here,

and today we're talking about shoes!
and today we're talking about shoes!

A: Shoes. E: Why are we talking about shoes?
A: Shoes. E: Why are we talking about shoes?

We thought that shoes would be a good way to talk
We thought that shoes would be a good way to talk

about cultural similarities and cultural differences.
about cultural similarities and cultural differences.

For the first pair that we're talking about today,
For the first pair that we're talking about today,

we have a pair of reef shoes, which would've --
we have a pair of reef shoes, which would've --

what would these have been used for?
what would these have been used for?

These were invented by people in the Pacific islands
These were invented by people in the Pacific islands

as a way of walking on reefs.
as a way of walking on reefs.

E: Why would somebody be walking on coral reefs? A: Well, they're looking for fish that they're
E: Why would somebody be walking on coral reefs? A: Well, they're looking for fish that they're

going to spear, or they're looking for marine life,
going to spear, or they're looking for marine life,

you know, they're fishermen. They're generally so.
you know, they're fishermen. They're generally so.

So you wouldn't wear these just hanging around town.
So you wouldn't wear these just hanging around town.

E: They serve a very specific function. A: Right. They serve a very specific function.
E: They serve a very specific function. A: Right. They serve a very specific function.

What we're doing is contrasting them with the
What we're doing is contrasting them with the

snowshoe, which also has a specific function.
snowshoe, which also has a specific function.

I think the name gives it away. (laughs)
I think the name gives it away. (laughs)

E: There's so much ingenuity in it. A: Exactly.
E: There's so much ingenuity in it. A: Exactly.

E: And so much craftsmanship. A: Right.
E: And so much craftsmanship. A: Right.

E: I mean, to go out and to get all of the materials and
E: I mean, to go out and to get all of the materials and

then to design this and then to make something that
then to design this and then to make something that

actually functioned -- A: Right.
actually functioned -- A: Right.

And that's also true about the reef shoes
And that's also true about the reef shoes

because people had to come out with a --
because people had to come out with a --

you know, thinking about the materials and then how to
you know, thinking about the materials and then how to

make them and all that. I think what this shows you is
make them and all that. I think what this shows you is

that wherever people are, they are creative,
that wherever people are, they are creative,

they try to figure out the right way to make the things
they try to figure out the right way to make the things

that they need for the environment that they live in.
that they need for the environment that they live in.

E: So, what are we looking at here?
E: So, what are we looking at here?

A: I think it's pretty obvious that these are all sandals.
A: I think it's pretty obvious that these are all sandals.

What's interesting here is that the form really hasn't
What's interesting here is that the form really hasn't

changed in 2,000 years of sandals because these are
changed in 2,000 years of sandals because these are

Egyptian sandals, 2,000 years old --
Egyptian sandals, 2,000 years old --

E: Wow. A: -- from our collection.
E: Wow. A: -- from our collection.

These are kids' sandals made probably, who knows,
These are kids' sandals made probably, who knows,

in the 1990s. And then flipflops.
in the 1990s. And then flipflops.

When you think about it, if we're talking about shoes for
When you think about it, if we're talking about shoes for

hot weather climates, this is the shoe.
hot weather climates, this is the shoe.

Why would you change the form if it suits the function, the need?
Why would you change the form if it suits the function, the need?

How much variation could you have on a theme, in a way?
How much variation could you have on a theme, in a way?

Exactly.
Exactly.

So these are all children's shoes.
So these are all children's shoes.

Right. No matter where, people want their kids to look good.
Right. No matter where, people want their kids to look good.

(laughs)
(laughs)

Right? I mean, look at these with the cute little bows and
Right? I mean, look at these with the cute little bows and

the beads.
the beads.

This is not useful. I mean, imagine a kid walking.
This is not useful. I mean, imagine a kid walking.

That's not for use or function.
That's not for use or function.

That's just for fashion.
That's just for fashion.

I would have tripped.
I would have tripped.

Right.
Right.

You know, there is a kind of common concern among
You know, there is a kind of common concern among

people in many cultures around status, pride, and identity,
people in many cultures around status, pride, and identity,

and so I think showing that off in your children
and so I think showing that off in your children

and dressing your children through their adornment or
and dressing your children through their adornment or

through accessorizing clothes -- E: And embellishments.
through accessorizing clothes -- E: And embellishments.

The level of detail that is put into these -- A: Right.
The level of detail that is put into these -- A: Right.

This is Cheyenne so this would have been Southern plains,
This is Cheyenne so this would have been Southern plains,

and this is a (indistinct), so that would have been northern.
and this is a (indistinct), so that would have been northern.

So initially, of course, they didn't have access to beads.
So initially, of course, they didn't have access to beads.

Beads came from Europe.
Beads came from Europe.

When native peoples here started trading for beads,
When native peoples here started trading for beads,

It had a big impact on their local way of life.
It had a big impact on their local way of life.

And it wasn't just for beads but they traded fur for a lot of things.
And it wasn't just for beads but they traded fur for a lot of things.

The beaver pelts were traded and beaver was used by
The beaver pelts were traded and beaver was used by

the Europeans to make felt hats -- those big, British felt hats --
the Europeans to make felt hats -- those big, British felt hats --

and all of that led to all of this massive overkilling of animals
and all of that led to all of this massive overkilling of animals

impelled by the fur trade.
impelled by the fur trade.

There's a history there.
There's a history there.

E: There's a lot more implications about these shoes than just status and creativity.
E: There's a lot more implications about these shoes than just status and creativity.

So, while we're talking about shoes and the implications they have,
So, while we're talking about shoes and the implications they have,

what are we looking at here?
what are we looking at here?

It's about standards of beauty that are determined by men.
It's about standards of beauty that are determined by men.

And that can vary from culture to culture.
And that can vary from culture to culture.

Yeah, these are what they called lotus slippers,
Yeah, these are what they called lotus slippers,

and so from a young age, a woman's feet would be bound very tightly
and so from a young age, a woman's feet would be bound very tightly

in order to fit into these.
in order to fit into these.

For a size comparison, these are as large as my hand.
For a size comparison, these are as large as my hand.

You know, to be in a family where feet were bound,
You know, to be in a family where feet were bound,

because not all women in China had their feet bound --
because not all women in China had their feet bound --

E: Right.
E: Right.

A: Only wealthy women could do it because the
A: Only wealthy women could do it because the

consequence was you couldn't walk.
consequence was you couldn't walk.

What that's saying is you're wealthy enough that you don't have to work.
What that's saying is you're wealthy enough that you don't have to work.

So in a sense it's very ironic because on the one hand,
So in a sense it's very ironic because on the one hand,

you were wealthy, on the other hand you went through a lot of pain.
you were wealthy, on the other hand you went through a lot of pain.

That's not so different from these, so before we start
That's not so different from these, so before we start

castigating the Chinese, think about --
castigating the Chinese, think about --

these are, what -- Manolo Blahnik shoes today cost, what --
these are, what -- Manolo Blahnik shoes today cost, what --

A thousand bucks.
A thousand bucks.

So wealthy women buy these shoes to show their status.
So wealthy women buy these shoes to show their status.

But they are also painful.
But they are also painful.

(laughs)
(laughs)

I could never wear these.
I could never wear these.

I don't. I think I own one pair of heels and I regret when I have to wear them.
I don't. I think I own one pair of heels and I regret when I have to wear them.

And again, you're putting yourself through a lot of pain
And again, you're putting yourself through a lot of pain

to meet a standard of beauty that is determined by men.
to meet a standard of beauty that is determined by men.

Let me ask you this.
Let me ask you this.

I know a lot of women in my life
I know a lot of women in my life

that are very self-confident,
that are very self-confident,

very empowered women,
very empowered women,

and their decision to wear clothes like this,
and their decision to wear clothes like this,

their decision to uphold traditional beauty standards,
their decision to uphold traditional beauty standards,

is something that gives them confidence
is something that gives them confidence

and empowerment.
and empowerment.

Is there room for both?
Is there room for both?

That's a really, really good question
That's a really, really good question

and that gets to the complicated way that human behavior is.
and that gets to the complicated way that human behavior is.

It's not just about, okay, I'm going to do this
It's not just about, okay, I'm going to do this

because the man says to, it's also because
because the man says to, it's also because

they know that they can
they know that they can

sometimes flip that narrative, you know.
sometimes flip that narrative, you know.

They can wear the shoes and still be empowered,
They can wear the shoes and still be empowered,

as you say, absolutely.
as you say, absolutely.

And in the case of the Chinese women,
And in the case of the Chinese women,

it didn't mean that they were just sitting there
it didn't mean that they were just sitting there

doing the bidding of men.
doing the bidding of men.

They exerted power, too.
They exerted power, too.

Just because times are tough
Just because times are tough

or because someone else is making the rules,
or because someone else is making the rules,

people find ways to subvert those rules
people find ways to subvert those rules

or overcome those rules, and act on their own behalf.
or overcome those rules, and act on their own behalf.

This is our last comparison of the day,
This is our last comparison of the day,

but it might be one of the more dramatic.
but it might be one of the more dramatic.

A: Totally. E: So what are these?
A: Totally. E: So what are these?

E: We'll start with these shoes. A: Okay.
E: We'll start with these shoes. A: Okay.

Well, so these are shoes, maybe sandals,
Well, so these are shoes, maybe sandals,

from the Ottoman Empire.
from the Ottoman Empire.

They were made in Turkey.
They were made in Turkey.

Clearly, again, meant to show the high status,
Clearly, again, meant to show the high status,

celebrity, if you will,
celebrity, if you will,

and sort of prestige.
and sort of prestige.

This is for somebody who doesn't have to walk.
This is for somebody who doesn't have to walk.

E: Right. A: Doesn't have to work,
E: Right. A: Doesn't have to work,

A: you know, can work with -- E: Or can work with primarily words and directions.
A: you know, can work with -- E: Or can work with primarily words and directions.

A: Exactly.
A: Exactly.

E: Not a lot of manual labor.
E: Not a lot of manual labor.

A: No manual labor happening in these shoes.
A: No manual labor happening in these shoes.

But then we're comparing them to these guys.
But then we're comparing them to these guys.

These are my favorite.
These are my favorite.

These are shoes that Michael Jordan himself donated
These are shoes that Michael Jordan himself donated

to the Field Museum, or loaned
to the Field Museum, or loaned

to the Field Museum for our exhibition.
to the Field Museum for our exhibition.

So obviously Michael Jordan is a major player (pun intended)
So obviously Michael Jordan is a major player (pun intended)

in sports history but also in the Chicago region.
in sports history but also in the Chicago region.

And so what was the reason for wanting to have these
And so what was the reason for wanting to have these

on display compared to impractical shoes of a Turkish diplomat?
on display compared to impractical shoes of a Turkish diplomat?

The notion that status and celebrity is there in
The notion that status and celebrity is there in

many different cultures, especially cultures
many different cultures, especially cultures

where there is stratification, if you will,
where there is stratification, if you will,

where there's class,
where there's class,

or economic differences,
or economic differences,

and showing off your status is important.
and showing off your status is important.

But there's differences.
But there's differences.

So in Michael Jordan's case,
So in Michael Jordan's case,

he attained his celebrity status by being
he attained his celebrity status by being

the best athlete in the world.
the best athlete in the world.

He and the Chicago Bulls of his time
He and the Chicago Bulls of his time

changed the image of Chicago.
changed the image of Chicago.

That kind of celebrity status
That kind of celebrity status

had an impact, just as perhaps
had an impact, just as perhaps

the person who wore these shoes
the person who wore these shoes

and made decisions for the Ottoman Empire had an impact.
and made decisions for the Ottoman Empire had an impact.

The image of Chicago, if you think about it,
The image of Chicago, if you think about it,

before the Bulls of the Jordan era,
before the Bulls of the Jordan era,

if you said you're from Chicago,
if you said you're from Chicago,

they would say, "Oh, Al Capone!"
they would say, "Oh, Al Capone!"

"The gangsters!"
"The gangsters!"

You know, that's what Chicago was associated with.
You know, that's what Chicago was associated with.

Then after Michael Jordan,
Then after Michael Jordan,

and you said you were from Chicago, they were like,
and you said you were from Chicago, they were like,

"Oh, Michael Jordan!"
"Oh, Michael Jordan!"

He became world-renowned.
He became world-renowned.

That's pretty amazing.
That's pretty amazing.

That's pretty impactful.
That's pretty impactful.

Pretty interesting to know that we can
Pretty interesting to know that we can

have all these thoughts and ideas based off of
have all these thoughts and ideas based off of

their footwear.
their footwear.

Hey, thanks for watching this episode of The Brain Scoop!
Hey, thanks for watching this episode of The Brain Scoop!

This is gonna be our last episode for the year
This is gonna be our last episode for the year

and I wanted to say thanks to everybody
and I wanted to say thanks to everybody

who responded to our survey.
who responded to our survey.

We got a ton of really great responses
We got a ton of really great responses

and so we're really gonna take that to heart
and so we're really gonna take that to heart

and stay tuned for more episodes in the new year.
and stay tuned for more episodes in the new year.

Have a great break.
Have a great break.

the brain scoop is made possible by the
the brain scoop is made possible by the

field museum and the Harris family foundation.
field museum and the Harris family foundation.

It still has brains on it
It still has brains on it