Narrator: When you think of Benihana,
Narrator: When you think of Benihana,

you probably think of their spatula-flipping chefs
you probably think of their spatula-flipping chefs

and flaming onion volcanoes.
and flaming onion volcanoes.

Or maybe DJ Steve Aoki, son of Benihana founder, Rocky Aoki.
Or maybe DJ Steve Aoki, son of Benihana founder, Rocky Aoki.

What you might not think of, however,
What you might not think of, however,

is how much Benihana transformed America.
is how much Benihana transformed America.

Today, Benihana is a household name.
Today, Benihana is a household name.

But when Rocky Aoki opened the first Benihana in 1964,
But when Rocky Aoki opened the first Benihana in 1964,

most Americans wouldn't even think
most Americans wouldn't even think

about touching Japanese food.
about touching Japanese food.

World War Two wreaked havoc
World War Two wreaked havoc

on America's relationship with Japan.
on America's relationship with Japan.

There was a fear that Japanese Americans were loyal to Japan
There was a fear that Japanese Americans were loyal to Japan

and would somehow try to sabotage American war efforts
and would somehow try to sabotage American war efforts

resulting in the internment camps.
resulting in the internment camps.

The paranoia and propaganda against Japanese Americans
The paranoia and propaganda against Japanese Americans

cultivated a hostile and racist environment
cultivated a hostile and racist environment

for anyone associated with Japan.
for anyone associated with Japan.

In 1944 the Japanese internment camps
In 1944 the Japanese internment camps

were marked unlawful by the Supreme Court.
were marked unlawful by the Supreme Court.

But just because the Japanese Americans were free
But just because the Japanese Americans were free

to return home didn't mean they'd have a warm reception.
to return home didn't mean they'd have a warm reception.

So when Rocky Aoki emigrated from Japan to America,
So when Rocky Aoki emigrated from Japan to America,

with a dream to open a Japanese restaurant for Americans,
with a dream to open a Japanese restaurant for Americans,

it was a long shot that his dream would come true.
it was a long shot that his dream would come true.

And yet, it did.
And yet, it did.

Benihana was the brainchild of Aoki's parents,
Benihana was the brainchild of Aoki's parents,

Yonosuke and Katsu Aoki.
Yonosuke and Katsu Aoki.

His father Yonosuke was famously descended from Samurai,
His father Yonosuke was famously descended from Samurai,

and was the one who came up with the name Benihana,
and was the one who came up with the name Benihana,

named after the red flower he found
named after the red flower he found

while walking through the rubble of war-torn Tokyo.
while walking through the rubble of war-torn Tokyo.

Rocky famously wrestled for Japan in the 1960 Olympics,
Rocky famously wrestled for Japan in the 1960 Olympics,

before moving to America where he would become
before moving to America where he would become

a world champion until 1962.
a world champion until 1962.

While attending college,
While attending college,

Aoki worked odd jobs and scooped ice cream
Aoki worked odd jobs and scooped ice cream

until he was able to rent out a restaurant space
until he was able to rent out a restaurant space

in Midtown Manhattan.
in Midtown Manhattan.

Jeannie Means: And his thinking was that Americans would
Jeannie Means: And his thinking was that Americans would

love the traditional proteins, shrimp, chicken, fish, steak,
love the traditional proteins, shrimp, chicken, fish, steak,

but cooked on a steel grill,
but cooked on a steel grill,

which is called teppanyaki,
which is called teppanyaki,

and it is a unique cooking style to Japan.
and it is a unique cooking style to Japan.

Narrator: The rise of teppanyaki
Narrator: The rise of teppanyaki

is uniquely rooted in World War Two.
is uniquely rooted in World War Two.

In 1945, a Japanese chef began using the cooking style
In 1945, a Japanese chef began using the cooking style

to grill steaks for homesick American soldiers.
to grill steaks for homesick American soldiers.

It seems fitting that a Japanese cooking style,
It seems fitting that a Japanese cooking style,

used for Americans deployed in Japan,
used for Americans deployed in Japan,

would eventually make its way across the Pacific,
would eventually make its way across the Pacific,

to bring Japanese food to the States.
to bring Japanese food to the States.

Rocky Aoki knew what he was up against
Rocky Aoki knew what he was up against

when he opened Benihana of Tokyo in mid-town Manhattan.
when he opened Benihana of Tokyo in mid-town Manhattan.

He deliberately banned any foods
He deliberately banned any foods

that might seem slippery, slimy or fishy,
that might seem slippery, slimy or fishy,

which were stereotypes Americans harbored
which were stereotypes Americans harbored

about Japanese cuisine.
about Japanese cuisine.

Instead, Aoki focused on making the menu
Instead, Aoki focused on making the menu

as American as possible,
as American as possible,

offering American-friendly entrees like steak and chicken
offering American-friendly entrees like steak and chicken

that were done grilled with Japanese-style sauces.
that were done grilled with Japanese-style sauces.

He added live entertainment by chefs
He added live entertainment by chefs

to make the meal even more appealing.
to make the meal even more appealing.

Food was flipped through the air
Food was flipped through the air

and jokes were served up with every entree.
and jokes were served up with every entree.

Despite Aoki's efforts,
Despite Aoki's efforts,

the restaurant struggled during its first year.
the restaurant struggled during its first year.

Aoki reportedly slept on the restaurant's bathroom floor
Aoki reportedly slept on the restaurant's bathroom floor

for six months as the restaurant continued to lose money.
for six months as the restaurant continued to lose money.

At the time, Japanese restaurants in America
At the time, Japanese restaurants in America

mostly catered to Japanese people,
mostly catered to Japanese people,

while Americans didn't seek out Japanese restaurants.
while Americans didn't seek out Japanese restaurants.

So as a Japanese restaurant looking to cater to Americans,
So as a Japanese restaurant looking to cater to Americans,

Benihana didn't really fit into any existing equations.
Benihana didn't really fit into any existing equations.

However, everything changed after a rave review
However, everything changed after a rave review

by Clementine Paddleford in the New York Herald Tribune.
by Clementine Paddleford in the New York Herald Tribune.

The review ushered in locals, tourists and even celebrities.
The review ushered in locals, tourists and even celebrities.

Everyone from Muhammad Ali to the Beatles
Everyone from Muhammad Ali to the Beatles

ate at Benihana of Tokyo on West 56 Street.
ate at Benihana of Tokyo on West 56 Street.

People were fascinated by this concept of a chef
People were fascinated by this concept of a chef

cooking food right at your table.
cooking food right at your table.

And Aoki soon opened a second location a few blocks away
And Aoki soon opened a second location a few blocks away

to handle all of the demand.
to handle all of the demand.

Ad Presenter: If you think our Benihana chef is good,
Ad Presenter: If you think our Benihana chef is good,

wait till you taste the food.
wait till you taste the food.

Narrator: Rocky Aoki continued expanding his empire,
Narrator: Rocky Aoki continued expanding his empire,

opening new restaurants around America.
opening new restaurants around America.

By 1972, there were nearly 20 Benihana restaurants
By 1972, there were nearly 20 Benihana restaurants

in America bringing in 12 million dollars a year.
in America bringing in 12 million dollars a year.

10 years later, there were 50 Benihana locations.
10 years later, there were 50 Benihana locations.

At this point, Rocky Aoki also added previously banned items
At this point, Rocky Aoki also added previously banned items

like sushi to Benihana's menu.
like sushi to Benihana's menu.

Rocky Aoki has been credited as the first person
Rocky Aoki has been credited as the first person

who made it accessible for non-Japanese people
who made it accessible for non-Japanese people

to enjoy the Japanese experience.
to enjoy the Japanese experience.

However, Aoki has also been criticized
However, Aoki has also been criticized

for watering down Japanese cuisine and culture
for watering down Japanese cuisine and culture

for commercial success.
for commercial success.

Rocky Aoki famously said that
Rocky Aoki famously said that

"the minute I forgot I was Japanese, success began".
"the minute I forgot I was Japanese, success began".

To be fair, it's exactly what he did.
To be fair, it's exactly what he did.

Although Aoki preserved parts of his Japanese heritage,
Although Aoki preserved parts of his Japanese heritage,

for example, designing Benihana's interior to be simple
for example, designing Benihana's interior to be simple

and reminiscent of Japanese inns,
and reminiscent of Japanese inns,

Aoki built Benihana to cater to Americans.
Aoki built Benihana to cater to Americans.

Means: And it's interesting to remember that in 1964,
Means: And it's interesting to remember that in 1964,

we weren't that far after World War Two.
we weren't that far after World War Two.

So again I think, to think that all things Japanese
So again I think, to think that all things Japanese

would be interesting to Americans in that day and time
would be interesting to Americans in that day and time

was pretty bold on his part.
was pretty bold on his part.

But yes, we're the original, the first,
But yes, we're the original, the first,

the only national Japanese restaurant chain in the country.
the only national Japanese restaurant chain in the country.

Narrator: Simplifying Japanese dishes
Narrator: Simplifying Japanese dishes

and playing on theatrics,
and playing on theatrics,

might not have been the most culturally prudent route,
might not have been the most culturally prudent route,

but it was successful.
but it was successful.

When Rocky Aoki died in 2008,
When Rocky Aoki died in 2008,

Benihana was estimated to be worth
Benihana was estimated to be worth

over a hundred million dollars.
over a hundred million dollars.

Today, there are 70 Benihana locations and the brand
Today, there are 70 Benihana locations and the brand

has expanded to include two sushi chains, Haru and RA.
has expanded to include two sushi chains, Haru and RA.

Japanese food has become pretty popular in the United States
Japanese food has become pretty popular in the United States

and it's not all because of Benihana
and it's not all because of Benihana

but the chain certainly helped pave the way.
but the chain certainly helped pave the way.