Hello, John Talley here with Partzila.com. Our 2009 YFZ450R has a bit of a problem. Out
on the trail, sunk it in water, now she doesn't have compression.
So, what do we need to do? Let's go ahead and get the plastics out of
the way, get the fuel tank up and gone pull the head, and get down to that cylinder because
I'll bet it probably compressed down on the rings. That's what's causing it not to have
compression. So, let me go grab my whole tool box, and we'll start doing this.
So let's go. Alright guys, this portion of the project
is only going to be a skill level two, but you still need to pay attention to everything
because putting it back together? Guess what? That's going to be a 3. That being said, let's
go over some of the tools you're going to need to get this thing pulled apart.
On the ratchet side, want to get a 1/4 inch, a 3/8ths, and then a breaker bar. Have several
extensions whether they be 3/8ths or quarter inch. On the socket side, pretty short list.
A couple of 8mm, a 10, 12, 14, and a 17. If you've got your regular old spark plug socket,
it's not going to fit in there unless it is a thin-wall.
On the Allen side, want to use a 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and then this big guy, a 14mm.
On the pliers side, set of needlenose, set of just channel locks, side cutters, regular
old flat-blade screwdriver, soft blow hammer, 14mm wrench, be nice to have this little magnet
pickup here, and this little pick tool. Now, as far as the parts list, well, that's
to be determined. But what you do want to do is reference our exploded parts diagrams.
That's going to give you a very clear picture of how things are going to come apart.
So, once you've got all your tools and your diagrams together, we can go over there and
I'll show you how to do it. So let's go.
Step number one when you're about to do an engine job? Disconnect your battery, because
as you're going through this, if you were to drop a wrench in the wrong place, you may
mike contact with a live section of the wiring and we don't want that.
So, what do we need to do? Well, we're going to pull off all the plastics,
we're going to get the fuel tank out of the way, get the head off, and then get down to
that cylinder. This hose may have pressure on it, so want
to have a rag on when you're pulling it off. As you're pulling this down, you want to group
all your nuts and bolts together. Put them in little plastic bags.
Because it all seems simple right now, but if it takes you a couple of days before you
have to put it back together, things start getting moved around, that's when you start
losing pieces and parts and it doesn't want to go back together correctly.
Alright guys, we've got our plastics off, our fuel tank's out of the way, let's go ahead
and get the radiator fluid drained out. Unfortunately, you can't tell how deep water
is by just looking at the surface, and this one actually got submerged out on the trail.
So, what does that mean? Well, we drained the water out of the top
end, flushed out the crankcase, she still didn't want to start.
Turns out, it doesn't have hardly any compression on it. So, what happened? More than likely
we're going to find that the compression caused it to push down on the rings and now they're
no longer sealing the cylinder. Alright, let's go ahead and get the muffler
off and then we'll get the head pipe after that.
Nothing to it, just a couple of twelves in the back and then a 10mm up here.
Go put this in our bag. The exhaust bolts up here are just 12mm.
That bottom one's frozen on a little bit, we'll spray some penetrating oil on there.
We're going to let that soak for a few minutes. While it's doing its thing, we'll go ahead
and work on the intake side. Alright guys, the way I'm going to approach
the intake is to go ahead and remove the airbox itself.
Next we want to pull this breather box off the side, then disconnect the throttle body
from the intake boot on the side of the cylinder and just slide it back. That should get it
out of the way enough for us to go ahead and remove the head and cylinder.
Now, we can loosen up the intake boot on the front side of the throttle body. There she
goes. Now, let's see if the penetrating fluid has
done its job. You gotta love it when something works right.
Alright, let's go ahead and get our front radiator hose off.
It's just a simple clamp, and once you pull it out of the way it usually kinda breaks
the seal so to speak. So grab it at the rubber and just shake it a little bit. You hear it
make this crunching sound then you should be able to pull it back.
Next I want to go ahead and get the breather hose out of the way. It's got a couple of
different points where to mounts to the head and down at the side of the crankcase.
And then, get one more clamp down at the bottom, that way we can just remove it.
Alright guys, here's where Yamaha gets a little tricky.
You know this is a 16mm or 5/8ths socket, but if you just have a Craftsman one, like
I do, guess what? It's not going to go down in there.
So, Motion Pro make s a thin-wall spark plug remover which we just happen to carry. So
you may want to picj up one of these. Otherwise, you're not gonna be able to get down in there
and pull it out. It's wet. Imagine that.
Alright, we're going to go ahead and finish getting these cable harness holders out of
the way. Go ahead and remove that top motor mount. It actually has an 8mm Allen on this
side, 14mm nut on the other side. Once we get that bolt pulled through, then
we'll pull these top ones and that'll get the bracket out of the way.
It fooled me a little bit. I can see where it's got the nut on the side of the bracket
but it looks like it's actually welded on there.
I would imagine that they did that so you could actually hold the threads because there
was a fair amount of torque there, and it could shear away from the bracket potentially.
Alright, it looks like to get it to clear I need to actually pull off the intake clamp
because it was hitting it. There we go. So there's what I was talking
about. They did weld that nut on the end of it.
Alright now, we can actually start bringing the engine apart. Let's go ahead and get our
valve cover off. I want to go ahead and just blow off any loose
dirt because I don't want to drop anything down into it. These are just two 5mm Allens.
Nice and clean in there. That inspection cover's over here at the crankshaft.
The crankshaft bolt access actually has a 14mm Allen. And that way I can look at the
cams, and I want to bring it around to top dead center on the compression stroke.
Don't lose your O-ring right here. Alright guys, what we're looking for here
we want to turn this counterclockwise and there's going to be a mark to that outside
edge. We want to bring it around to that little indention on the side of the case and then
we want to verify that we are actually on the compression stroke by looking at our cams.
So let's start bringing it around, see if we can find that mark.
There it is. That's that single mark. Alright, we've got our crankshaft around to
top dead center, but if you look up at the cams, these two little indentions? They're
on the inside, and that means we're on the intake stroke. If you look at the actual lobes,
they are pushing down on the valves. So it's actually sitting at split overlap. So we need
to go another 180 degrees and that'll bring the cams around to the right position.
There's the timing mark, and there's top dead center.
Alright, now we've got our mark right there. Now, when you look at the camshafts, those
little indentions on the gears right here and here are even with the edge of the head.
So we are on the compression stroke, top dead center.
We can go and remove our tension adjuster for the cam chain. There's only two 8mm bolts.
I'd do the inside one first because there's actually a spring that's pushing against it.
So you can take it our by hand and the one on the outside would have been a little bit
easier to get to. Alright, there it is. Now we just need to
back it back up. A little bit of preparation now makes all the difference later.
And one note: there was actually a crush washer on the inside bolt. So keep that in mind.
Let's start pulling out our cam carrier or cam caps and then that way we can lift off
the timing chain. And all of those are just 8mm bolts.
Sound be everybody. Let's go ahead and lift them off.
Exhaust, and intake. Now, got enough slack on our chain, should
be able to walk them right out. Be careful of these little half-hims right
here. That's it.
These little half-shims, see where they go in the bearing on the bottom? Like that.
Alright, let's go ahead and pull these 8mm on the side. Then we're going to go after
those main bolts. Alright guys, these are 14mm bolts, I guarantee
you they're going to have some torque on them. And we want to take them out about a quarter
turn at a time and we want to go criss-cross pattern to relieve the tension on the head.
About 90 degrees going back and forth. Alright, now she's loose.
We'll go and remove these, but then we'll need to go back with a magnet to get the washers.
Alright, at this point I just want to get this small soft blow hammer, go ahead and
break it loose and the head should just lift right off.
There it is. And she's off.
Alright, we're down to the cylinder now. Let's go ahead and get that front chain guide
out of the way. It just lifts out. Now we can go ahead and get our head gasket
out of the way. I'm gonna go ahead and pitch it because we're not going to be reusing that.
Now there's just one 8mm bolt over on this side, and then we can lift off the cylinder.
There it is. Yep. Look at 'em. They won't even move. They
are stuck in there. That is what happens when you sink one of these machines. So, once again,
can't always judge how deep that little water section is from the surface.
The connecting rod actually feels good, so what we want to do next is get a couple of
cloths down inside so I don't want to drop anything inside the crankcase.
Then we'll go ahead and get the clips pulled on the connector rod end and then we can get
that piston out of there. And for that I'm just going to use a pick
tool. You've got one little edge on the piston where you can actually get up behind it and
just guide it out. And there it is.
Alright, now we can go ahead and push it through. She's off.
Well alright guys, there it is. She's torn apart all the way down and that's going to
do it for this video. So, if you want to see how to put it back
together, whey don't you follow me over to the next video where I'm going to go through
it and inspect the cylinders and see if we're going to be able to reuse it or not and then
we're going to go through step-by-step on how to reassemble it. Check the timing, check
the valve clearance, and make sure it's ready for the trail.
So, we just want to say thanks for shopping here with us at Partzilla.com, and if you
like what you're seeing why don't you go ahead and subscribe to our channel and see what
I'm going next. So, if you're ready, follow me over to the next video and let's see if
we can get this put back together. So let's go.