- Hey YouTube viewers, this is Donnie Smith,
and welcome to another Eastwood video series.
Now, in the past videos in this Eastwood series,
we've been working on dents, showing you how to
locate and repair dents, how to
disassemble the parts of a car.
In this video, we're gonna go over
some of the steps that we took
to get it ready for paint.
You know, some of the minor imperfections.
You know, it really wasn't bad enough for body filler,
but still, primer wasn't gonna be enough
to just fill it and block it out.
We applied some putty to those spots.
We've got things like some feather edging
to do that we're gonna show you about,
and final sanding, getting it ready for primer and painting.
So, we're gonna go through all these steps in this video,
and show you the steps that we took.
Okay, if you remember in some of the previous videos,
some of the dents that we pulled out
and we applied body filler.
Some of the dents we used a dolly
and rolled the dent out, and was able
to block the paint out, and it doesn't
need any filler at all.
We're just gonna prime those areas.
But, there are a few areas that don't
really need to be taken down to metal
and applied body filler.
They're just small imperfections,
and what we're gonna do with those is
sand those with 180, and apply putty on top of those.
Now, anywhere you apply putty, glaze putty,
it does need to be sanded with at least 180 grit.
Anything finer might not adhere properly.
Now, the advantages of glaze putty is that
it can go on top of different types of surfaces.
It can go over sanded paint as long as it's 180,
or the different layers of paint, metal, whatever.
The body filler, it can go on top of body filler.
If you have any pin holes, small imperfections,
or you know like some of the dents we worked out,
but it needs just a little more filling,
you know a little bit more than primer would provide,
you know things like that it's gonna work well.
A couple of the disadvantages of using glaze putty
is that it is more expensive than body filler,
and you can't apply it as thick as you can body filler.
Body filler, it's recommended.
I've seen it a lot thicker, but it's really not recommended
to use more than a quarter of an inch after it's sanded.
And, glaze putty, you're looking at about an eighth inch.
So, if you need more than an eighth inch of filling,
you know you're probably gonna wanna
go ahead and use body filler,
but for the minor imperfections we have left,
we're gonna go ahead and apply glaze putty on top of it.
Then, once we have the glaze applied,
we're gonna block sand that out with,
you can use anywhere from 150 to 180.
I think we're using 150 in this video,
but if you use one of those, that's gonna work well.
And, don't forget, you can use guide coat
through any step, any step you're doing.
Whether it's in the body filler, the glaze, or even primer.
You know, use guide coat.
That's gonna help you identify lows, highs,
or any imperfections that you may have.
Also, when sanding glaze, same principles apply.
Be sure and cross sand that so that you
feather those edges out properly.
If you just sand in one direction,
it's gonna take a chance of undercutting and have problems.
So, be sure and cross sand.
Now, we're at a good point.
This is always a step that you kinda step back
and you're glad that you have made it to this point.
Although this care wasn't too bad,
I mean it didn't have a lot of body work.
Everything was pretty minor.
But, once you get all the body filler
block sanded, and it's good, glaze putty is block sanded,
all the body work's basically done.
So now you're gonna kinda move to the refinish side of this,
and the first thing you wanna do is feather edge,
and what that is is just to smooth out
all the surrounding areas.
You have different scratches in there
from the different grits of sandpaper.
You want to make sure all those scratches are minimized
by using 220 on a DA.
And also, if there's any paint edges
where you had ground or taken it to metal,
you want to be sure and layer each layer of paint out,
cause you don't want a ridge there.
You want to smooth that out and layer,
and you really want each layer of paint,
each coating, to be at least a quarter of an inch,
and what I mean by that, like your primer.
You want to see at least a quarter inch
ring of primer, and then the base coat,
and how ever many layers you have on there.
You wanna see each layer leveled out.
Now, a lot of times when we're using a DA,
we're using an interface pad.
It's just a soft pad that we put on the DA sander,
but any time you're trying to level something,
like if you have runs, excessive orange peel,
or when you're trying to feather edge,
you don't want that interface pad on there.
You want a hard surface.
So, just the DA pad alone is gonna
provide a much better feather edge,
and then trying to use an interface pad.
So, we're gonna get some 220 on a DA,
no interface pad, and we're gonna feather edge
around all of our body work areas,
any chips we have, any scratches.
We're gonna feather all those out
so that we have a nice, smooth surface to continue with.
So, once we get everything feather edged out,
now we're ready to final sand,
and what this is, this is your final step of sanding,
and we use four to six hundred.
That's kind of the range depending on
your technical data sheet, or your preference.
What we use, we use 500 grit on a DA.
Now, whenever your final sanding,
you do want to use that interface pad,
because that's gonna prevent any sand marks
that the DA may put in the paint surface.
So, whenever you're final sanding,
be sure to use the interface pad.
Now, that's just what we prefer to do.
We prefer to use a DA with 500 grit and an interface pad,
but there are different ways to do that.
You can wet sand that by hand.
It takes a little bit longer, but you can take
four to six hundred by hand, and accomplish the same thing
just with a little bit more effort,
a little bit more elbow grease, and a little bit more time.
Now, when final sanding with 500, you want to be sure,
you know, spend extra attention to your edges,
cause that's what's missed often,
and if paint is going to peel, it's gonna peel
from the edges many times.
So, make sure you get your edges good,
but there's some edges, and some hard to get areas,
it's hard to get with a DA sander,
and that you may have to just sand by hand,
get some 500 grit and sand by hand,
and we even use, after we have final sanded everything,
we go over everything again, and get the edges,
hard to get areas with a red scuff pad.
If you're painting a surface, red's gonna work fine.
If it's just gonna be clear coat,
you want to use the gray.
But, we're painting this whole car,
so we're gonna go over all the car,
the entire car, edges, hard to get areas,
with that red scuff pad, just to assure
that everything's gonna have proper adhesion.
Now, the next step we're gonna take is sanding the jams.
Now, this aint gonna be every job.
It depends if you're painting the door jams,
under the hood, things like that,
but we are on this car, we're painting everything,
so all that has to be sanded.
You can't skip the sand steps.
If you skip sanding somewhere, the paint's
probably not gonna stick, it's gonna peel.
So, we're gonna sand that, and what we're doing
is we're just sanding that by hand.
There's so many curves and areas that's hard to get.
So, we just sand by hand with 500,
and then we come back with a scuff pad,
because there's a lot of hard to get areas,
a lot of angles and curves inside of door jams,
under the hood, and all that.
Then we'll come back with a red scuff pad,
and make sure that's all scuffed real well.
But here's tip for ya.
Whenever working on your jams,
you wanna clean everything, the car that you're working on,
before you sand, but spend some extra time
cleaning jams, because you know around door hinges
and the latch, they're real prone to
a lot of dirt and contamination.
Oils, silicons, things like that.
You don't wanna smear that around.
So wash it really good with soap and water,
your jams first, and wipe down with some
wax and grease remover.
Make sure all that's gone.
And, what we've even do before in some areas
that's got some stuff caked on there,
we'll get a scuff pad with some wax and grease remover,
and try to make sure all that's gone.
Then we rinse it off, and then we'll scuff it,
do our final sanding with 500,
then come back with a scuff pad.
So make sure any contamination's gone
on the jams before sanding.
Okay, now we've got all of our body work done,
the car is smooth, straight, we've got
everything feather edged, and we have it final sanded,
and now we're ready to apply some primer surfacer.
I don't know about you, but to me,
I always like it when I get to that point.
I feel like I accomplished something.
You're kinda moving from the body side to the refinish side.
So, in the next video we're gonna show you
the steps we took, and we're gonna show you the primer.
We're using some Eastwood primer.
We're using all Eastwood products
as far as paint products.
So, in upcoming videos we're gonna show you
some Eastwood primer, some base coat, clear coat,
and we'll go through the steps
on that in upcoming videos.
So anyway, thanks for watching this video.
If you like this video, be sure and give us
a thumbs up, give us a like, share this with your friends,
and we'll see you in the next video.