hey Jody here let's do it in a previous video I showed a root pass technique
where I go forward and back using the laywire technique and so I don't walk the
cup I just freehand with a TIG finger straight forward straight back and then
also did a fill pass and a cover pass free handing with a TIG finger and I'll
link those up right here but they look something like this it's a good
technique walking the cup is a good technique also you can't always walk the
cup because sometimes there are things in the way both of them have their pros
and cons so for this video we're gonna really tackle walking the cup and it
really helps to have different cup sizes when you're walking the cup because
you've got all kinds of situations where you got different wall thicknesses
different bevel angles and whatnot I like to use these big large diameter gas
lenses and I'm gonna start off with a number 6 cup cups are marked in
increments of 16 so a 6 cup is 6/16 or 3/8 on the inside diameter I like to
grip it different ways depending on the situation but you want to select a cup
size that will wiggle on a hot pass just about like this now sometimes you just
don't have a choice you're stuck with a cup size it's not ideal here's a large
one at number 10 in which case you can rock it listen to this that works pretty
good too just whatever it takes but it really
does help to have a selection of cup sizes I'm going to be using a 6 here for
the for the hot pass because it seems to wiggle in there quite nicely when you're
in the groove like this the cup just Wiggles well when you're out on a cover
pass it's more like a figure 8 like walking a 55-gallon drum across a shop
floor so let's do the let's do the hot pass 105 amps 1/8th inch er 309 L filler
ah because I'm welding carbon steel pipe to a stainless steel flange not for any
real reason I just happen to get some flanges without having to actually buy
them so I'm going to wind up making a stand out of this thing for either a
vise for to hold test while I will bone them and shoot video
your main goal on the hot passes to not screw up the route pass since I'm using
stainless here normally I would keep the purge going for the hot pass maybe even
the past after that but for the sake of this thing since I've done a several
practice runs to get this video done to get enough arc shots and whatnot
I pulled the purge hose out but it's best practice to leave the purge on you
never know if you might actually only get hung up get going too slow and melt
through and then you'll sugar on the inside so you don't want to spend a
whole lot of time across the middle just kind of go at a fairly good clip from
side to side and of course that comes with a little practice when you're first
learning you want to get the technique down first and then your speed will come
later I'm going a little bit slower than probably I should here because I'm a
little bit out of practice one thing I can see though is this this hot pass is
not filling it up quite as much as it did in a previous video where I free
handed the hot pass so I'm gonna need another fill pass on there before I'm
ready for a cover pass and so I'm gonna jump up to another size larger cup I'm
gonna go from a six up to a number eight here for the fill pass now this pass I'm
not riding on a groove or anything so I am doing like a figure eight kind of
like rolling a 55-gallon drum across a shop floor and the ripples in the weave
and the speed of progression are kind of controlled by your wrist and how big a
steps you take each time you come across a lot of that is a matter of preference
but some of its not sometimes you really want to get finished with a if you're in
a pipe shop they don't care how narrow the ripples are maybe they want that
thing done maybe you figure out a technique where you increase your travel
speed and your ripples are spaced a little farther apart and you get
finished quicker other than that a lot of it is preference sometimes it's heat
input though now you see me I've got this torch kind of held up tight toward
the cup kind of choked up on it I don't always do that but this is this is
only three-inch pipe schedule 40 105 amps so the torch is not getting hot it
gives me a little bit more control and like I said I'm a little bit out of
practice here so once I got more comfortable with it I might grip it
further back on the neck it all depends if this was a you know 36 inch heavy
wall joint with 2 inch wall thickness I'd be great and gripping that thing way
down by the handle to to get my hand away from the heat so different
different techniques for different situations
well this fill pass is getting close to being done and then we'll be ready for
the cover pass I like to let things cool off for a little bit before I just come
back on with the cap pass this has got a heavy flange here so it's quite a heat
sink so it's gonna cool off fairly quickly but after it cools just a little
bit I'll give it a wire a wire brushing like that and then while it's still good
and warm to the touch I didn't change my amperage or anything I'm just going back
on it and I'm gonna put a cover pass on there just about like this this is one
of those situations where I kind of wish I had a 5/32 filler wire I'm using a 1/8
here a 5/32 would probably let me fill it a little bit easier without having to
watch those toes so so closely because I don't want to leave any underfill or any
undercut on those toes you can see a few little areas that's just just wish there
was just a little bit more fill there so I wouldn't have to watch him to make
sure there weren't any scalloped areas that looked a little low again it's like
walking a 55-gallon drum across the shop floor I'm using a foot pedal here today
for this joint so I just kind of trailed out got more and more narrow as a
tapered off amperage to kind of comet trail it out
alright let's wire brush that off really quickly and then talk about some more
tips for walking the cup a little recap if you will you can kind of get the
motor skills built by just doing a tea joint fill it weld this this is the same
motion I might use on a route pass I want to roll out joint and then once
you've got that root pass in there and you can either dip or dual a wire it
doesn't really matter you just good practice doing
either one once you get a root pass in there like that you can also use the
metal up more by doing a second pass on it this is very much like a hot pass
over top of a route and you could put this T joint vertical or overhead or
however you wanted to to get to practice again cup sizes is important also
electrode extension is important general rule of thumb is start off with your
electrode extended just about what the cup size is so a number six cup you'd
extend the electrode 6/16 I did this video a while back just putting a big
chunk of stainless on a turntable just to get some arc shots and show how that
works you can't always walk the cup for every situation if this was a machine
shop job they might not want these scratches that walk in the cup puts on
that nice surface of stainless steel but for pipe when you're inside a bevel
doesn't matter good practice anyway I know I used that
55-gallon drum analogy a lot but here's another analogy sticking a pen inside a
Taco Bell cup this is what walking the cup looks like except you're holding on
to a torch handle usually and cup size really matters depending on the scenario
whether you're inside the bevel or out on the surface you can get some practice
on out on the surface like you would on a cover pass just get a smooth piece of
pipe round stock tubing whatever scribe some lines or grind some lines and just
practice lightly holding the torch don't grip it like a gorilla that's a big
mistake but lightly hold the torch just so you can tell that you're putting
light pressure on that surface and then something smooth like this if you put
too much pressure on it you'll scoot off of it or slide off of it so it's good
just to get the feel without an arc without a puddle just practice this
practice holding the torch upside down like this because you will have to do it
if you're on a shipyard or in a power plant or something you're going to get
in all kind of weird positions so practice holding it sideways upside down
and walking it any which way it's good to build those motor skills before you
start welding before the hood drops there is a time in which you just have
to weld and then it's all different when you flip the hood down everything
changes but if you built those motor skills
it'll help and like I said before earlier don't worry about the speed to
begin with the speed will come later just get the motion down watch the
puddle watch the puddle watch the toes of the weld make sure they're filling in
not leaving any undercut okay the rest of this video shows a cup kit that I
added to my store yes it's a commercial but I hope you'll stick around but there
will be lots of good art shots and instructional stuff I'd like to take a
minute now and tell you about these two kids there's a kit for nine and twenty
style torches and also a kit for seventeen eighteen twenty six style
torches this kit has a cup for practically every situation you would
encounter and I've used every single one of these cups that's in this kit and
recommend every single one of them it is basically all of the kits that I
currently sell packed into one big kit and then some let's talk about why you
would want to use a gas lens to start with this is a collet body for seventeen
and twenty six style torches first off first upgrade I would recommend as a
stubby gas lens kit with that because not only is it shrink the overall size
it just provides a better gas coverage and gives you a longer stick out this is
a number eight collet body here with a half-inch stick out didn't do so well
same stick out with the number eight gas lens stubby gas lens did a lot better
and then you can see when I added the jazzy tint to it it did even better I
really like using the number six stubby gas lens for general aluminum welding it
lets me use a long stick out when I need to but also doesn't give me too much gas
coverage kind of limits that itching zone around the weld because where you
don't have gas you won't get that etching zone the number eight clear pro
that you saw me use earlier in this video is a great all-around cup for
steel stainless steel and aluminum unless you use a long stick out but the
main benefit that I have found is just great shielding and lets me see where
I'm going you can see me looking through the cup here on this aluminum puddle
that's very helpful sometimes when you get down in a corner it just lights the
way for me and helps me see the the seam the crack the joint whatever
here you see this is me at working with Mike Zhang cuñado on a bike frame
looking through that through that number eight clear cup that's very helpful
sometimes to be able to do that it's not always needed to be able to see through
the cup but man when you need it you need it this kit also comes with large
diameter gas lens collet bodies and wedge kaulitz wedge college don't have a
split in them they just have a wedge they work great and they last a lot
longer than the split version this comes with a six eight ten and twelve cup
which are great for walking the cup they have lots of other uses they can be used
on steel as well as aluminum but they're really good for walking the cup and if
that's something that you want to learn how to do or if you're struggling with
it I've got two or three videos out there just search my channel for walking
the cup TIG welding you'll find them but whether you're walking the cup or not
these cups provide really good gas shielding and if you're using an
air-cooled torch they add a little bit of extra heatsink to the torch just to
keep it from getting so hot another cup kit that's added in here is the number
five cup for aluminum it's a standard collet body with no gas lens a lot of
people prefer this setup strictly for aluminum I like to taper my electrode a
little bit and then ball it a little bit for a whole lot of aluminum work that I
do it seems to get good arc starts has a stable arc but also that number five cup
limits the amount of cleaning action outside the puddle and it seems to
really focus that energy to the puddle and makes it penetrate a little bit
better this is straight argon here but man if you add just a little bit of
helium to that it really makes a difference another cup that I really
have come to like as the Jazzy 10 it's a number ten cup so it only requires about
twenty-two CFH here you see it doing a titanium test plate even though it's
only a number ten cup I've got some chill factor going on there with that A
Bomb fixture and pretty much made a silver weld with that number ten this is
cold rolled steel but I'm using Hastelloy C filler metal and look at
that big argon shielded area it's just about a perfect sized cup for tich
brazing with silicon bronze or aluminum bronze I like to use two pulses a second
actually and a half to two pulses a second I
found works great you need your metal clean and you also need a really good
argon shield and you'll get it with the jazzy ten you can extend your electrode
out really far with the jazzy ten or even farther with the ceramic 12 cup
using 3/4 of an inch electrode extension is really nothing for this cup you can
go way over an inch with no trouble for those times when you need to and you
don't always need to but you do sometimes for getting down inside a hole
or something like that tight cluster joints just areas where you you need a
long stick out and you need really good shielding like on this stainless cope
tube joint right here the clear version of this number 12 cup is also included
with a titanium shield on it you can use it with or without the titanium shield
it's great for your average everyday fill it welds with a long stick out
where you can see everything that's going on you can see that a whole big
argon shielded area all around the weld there a fill it will like this will help
trap argon so it's not that difficult to get good shielding but on an edge weld
like this the the edge wants to split the argon shield and so having a big
blanket of argon gas really helps on edge welds like this I find it really
helps to use a pulse here I'm using 50 pulses a second 33 percent background 33
percent on time works great 25 cfh for certain alloys mainly titanium you need
a even larger shield of gas than any of these other cups this is a bbw the new
design and Michael Furyk is always improving on his products but this one
works great for titanium this is a titanium test joint just like you would
take for an aerospace job in a fixture with backup gas on the back side no
discoloration at all and that's what you're after with titanium this kit also
comes with an assortment of bat caps the long one the short button and the
intermediate one along with a 1/16 332 and 1/8 2% lanthanide electrode for you
to try out this 9 and 20 style kit just uses the smaller hardware but pretty
much uses all the same cups with the same capabilities as the one for 17 18
26 this large gas lens here just requires a
different heat shield so you can turn your 9:20 style torch into something you
might want to walk the cup with if you're in a fab shop and you have a 20
style water-cooled torch you want to use a large gas lens like this now you got
it so these are basically all the cups
you've seen me use in my videos over the past few years all in one kit for almost
every situation learn more about the TIG pro kit at weld monger comm thank you so
much for watching
you