[Intro]
The Super Nintendo Classic edition is here.
It's pretty awesome that Nintendo is releasing all of their classic consoles and games in
a small portable unit.
With 21 games built directly into the system, it's hard for my wallet to say no.
I'm mostly excited for Zelda, Mario Kart, and Super Metroid – the games I used to
play back in my day.
I always had a video game time limit as a kid.
Before, I was supposed to go play outside or something else equally stupid.
But now that I'm an adult, I can play as much as I want, just nobody tell my mom.
There are two controllers included in the box this time around, instead of like last
year's original Nintendo Classic that just had one controller.
Multiplayer games are going to be a bigger deal this time around.
Plus, the cable for the controller is longer.
Nintendo listened.
This time around it's 56 inches or 1.4 meters for those of you with a measuring system that
makes sense.
I'll tear the controller down in just a second, but first let's dig into the console.
Quick trivia question for those who know, is Zelda a boy or a girl?
Let me know in the comments.
This thing is pretty sleek.
The Super Nintendo Classic edition is much smaller than the regular Super Nintendo.
There is no functional cartridge slot since all the games are now internal.
It does have both the power and reset buttons, and a plastic face that mimics the old controller
connectors.
On the back we have the HDMI output and a micro USB power port, which also comes included
in the box.
Now to actually plug in the controllers, the front insert pops off in a slightly annoying,
and very much still in the way fashion, to expose the two plugs.
I'll show you how to get rid of this in a second if that's your thing.
It's pretty easy.
On a normal YouTube channel, this is the point where the unboxing would be finished, but
on my channel though, it's not completely unboxed until the circuits are naked.
There are 4 rubber feet at the bottom of the console that pop off exposing 4 Philips head
screws.
The construction is incredibly simple.
Now that it's open, it almost looks exactly like the original Classic from last year.
The power switches are definitely different though.
I'll pop off the two Phillips head screws holding down that circuit board, and then
we have the standard run-of-the-mil switch for the power, and a little reset trigger
on the other side of the board.
This whole thing is pretty incredibly inexpensive to manufacture.
Let's hope that Nintendo actually makes enough of these this time around, because this would
make an epic Christmas present.
I'll leave a link in the description so you can check the inventory levels and the current
pricing.
Now that the power switch circuits are back into place, it's time to unplug the controller
cables from the motherboard.
These things are tight, and I always try to avoid pulling on wires directly, so getting
a metal tool under that little plastic lip help out.
It's probably safer not to use a razor blade though.
There are 4 screws holding down the metal plate over the motherboard.
This thing protects the motherboard, but also acts as a heat sink.
The processor has some thermal foam that reaches up and touches the bottom of the metal plate
to dissipate the heat that it accumulates while producing all the epic graphics that
the Super Nintendo requires.
One more screws holding down the motherboard to the plastic frame, and finally we get to
see the pretty simple brains of the Nintendo.
All of the included games are pre-loaded onto this cute little board.
I'll reassemble the whole contraption so we can tear down one of those controllers.
The motherboard had it's one screw, and then the metal heat sink has it's 4.
The two controller ribbons are back in place, and we get an inside look at the little plastic
door for the controller plugs.
If this thing is in your way, or you find it annoying, it's pretty easy to remove and
reattach again later if you want.
I'm going to leave mine attached so I don't lose it, but it's good to know it's removable
with just a gentle pull.
I'll reattach the ribbon cable that I pulled off earlier for those power buttons.
And the last thing that I want to point out that's pretty interesting is the LED from
this motherboard shines down into the smoky plastic below it, which then redirects the
light out the front opening of the console.
Kind of a cool design.
I'll toss the top housing back on over the body and screw it all back into place with
those 4 Philips head screws.
The rubber feet go back on top of those screw holes, and it's good to go.
The controller is next on our list of things to open up.
It's got hard plastic buttons everywhere except for the Select and Start buttons, which are
a grippy black rubber.
On the back of the controller we find 5 screw holes with the same silver Philips head screws
that we've been working with before.
Pulling off the back of the controller housing exposes the backside of the circuit board,
along with the corner trigger buttons.
The back housing also has extrusions, which I assume is to hold the motherboard firmly
in place as you're pressing buttons from the other side.
Both trigger buttons also have a unique design.
The plastic trigger can separate from the housing easy enough, and the button has a
separate board held up at a 90 degree angle with two wires leading down to the motherboard.
The cable leading to the controller is intertwined with these little plastic pegs.
I'll untangle that and flip around the circuit board to expose the buttons and how they work.
Each of these buttons has little black conductive pads, and when the rubber counterparts are
pressed into the contact on the circuit board, it completes the circuit and allows Mario
to move.
The exterior plastic buttons have little guiding pins in them, just like we saw on the Nintendo
Switch.
The buttons are all removable including the rubber Start and Select buttons, and the Arrow
direction pad.
I'll get all the rubber pads back in place.
These allow the buttons to compress and uncompress without any complex mechanisms, so it should
last quite a long while.
I'll get the motherboard back in place over the rubber and place the corner trigger buttons
back in the grooves they came from.
One more cool thing is that the cable leading out from the controller is intertwined with
those plastic pegs.
This allows the controller to be pulled and tugged a bit without putting any stress or
damage on the connector for the motherboard.
It can handle some abuse.
The back panel is now in place with it's 5 screws, and it's ready for me to play.
I'll be pretty awesome if Nintendo made a mini N64 next year.
What's your favorite Nintendo game, old or new?
Let me know down in the comments.
I'll have this Classic Super Nintendo system linked in the video description right below
this video if you want to get one of your own.
Thanks a ton for watching, and I'll see you around.