Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to bleed the brakes on our 2007 Suzuki GSX-R1000.
Pretty simple to do, just going to get it lifted up in the air so it's a little bit
easier to get to, I'll go grab a couple of tools and I'll show you how to get it done.
This is going to be a skill level one, so it's really not going to be that tough.
Let's go over some of the tools that you're going to need to get this accomplished.
Just going to need a decent ratchet, 5mm Allen, an 8mm just wrench and just a Phillips screwdriver.
Other than that, a length of 3/16 hose, some type of container to catch the fluid in, or
if you want to swing for the fence, a vacuum by Mityvac.
Great little system.
Makes life a whole lot simpler.
Other than that, as far as the parts you're going to need, just some DOT4 brake fluid.,
That's really all that's going to be required.
If you would, reference our exploded diagrams.
That'll give you an overall picture where each thing is located, whether it be the master
cylinder or the brakes or the hand brakes or more importantly that reservoir for the
rear brakes.
So, once you have your tools together, a little bit of brake fluid on hand, I'll walk over
there and I'll show you how to get it done.
First we need to remove this little bracket that's holding the reservoir cap on.
Alright, with that off we can start on the front and where we're actually going to start
is all the way up at the top of the master right here.
So, we want to do that one first then we'll drop down and do the actual calipers.
First way is going to be the manual, so just put your wrench on and attach a pretty good
length of hose to make it all the way up here.
I'll use a shorter one down at the bottom.
Then you just need something to catch the fluid in.
What you want to do is pump this up, hold, release your valve, and then it will start
pumping it through.
Close.
Pump it back up, and repeat.
As you can tell this is a slow process.
So what I'm going to do is go ahead and get my vacuum and things will happen a lot faster.
Alright, still have our wrench in place.
Let me get our hose on.
Now the vacuum, all you have to do is open it up and open the valve.
Now you want to keep a sharp eye on your reservoir so it doesn't pull it through and start pulling
air through.
Open it up, see how fast it's dropping?
Close that off.
Makes quick work of it doesn't it.
Alright now we can drop down and do the calipers.
First I'm going to do the right side, them I'll jump over and do the left.
Alright, we've got that cap off.
It's pretty much full of fluid.
you need to pull off this little dust cover down on the caliper itself.
We're going to use an 8mm wrench and just a length of hose and put that over the end
of the bleeder nipple.
Now you want some type of container to catch it.
Tell you what, so that doesn't spray all over me, gotta love zip ties.
That ought to do it.
So here's going to be the procedure: let's pump it up, keep pressure on it, open up the
valve, then it pushes some through.
Close it, release, pump back up, do it again.
Now brake fluid typically, when it's new, is pretty clear.
And as it ages, well, it starts to look more like Coca-Cola.
Alright, this takes a while.
But to get new fluid all the way down through, basically you want to go through an entire
reservoir full to make sure you've got it flushed all the way through.
You generally want to do this about every, I'd say at least every year because as time
goes by, the fluid, as it goes through a bunch o heat cycles, probably starts to get a little
tired so to speak.
Plus, brake fluid is what they call hydroscopic, so it'll actually pull in water through just
the humidity in the air.
So we don't want that getting in there and rusting out the cylinder bores.
Let's go fill it up one more time.
Then we'll switch over to the other side.
Go ahead and pull that dust cap.
Get our wrench on, then go ahead and get that hose pickup on.
Alright, open up your vacuum and then we'll open the valve.
Make sire this is snugged down.
And put our dust can on because we don't want dirt and whatnot getting in there.
Let's refill it one more time.
Now, let's turn our attention to the rear brake system.
To get to our reservoir it's actually tucked up behind the rear tail section.
So what I'm going to do is unbolt it.
See if we can bring it around to the outside.
I think we're going to do it just like that.
Do try to be careful not to spill any on your frame because it will eat your paint up.
Let's go ahead and get our cap pulled off.
Let's go ahead and top it off-- don't overfill it.
Now, we'll go ahead and get our hose connected to the bleeder valve on the back with our
wrench and do it the manual way first.
Now we just need to pump it up, hold, and release the valve.
There.
And close.
Pump back up.
And release.
Just keep doing that over and over again.
Unless you happen to have a vacuum bleeder.
Top off our reservoir, turn it on and open up our valve.
Now, we can go ahead and set our level.
These aren't brand new brake pads, so I only want to take it about half-way up.
We're going to stop there.
Now make sure we don't have any debris on this little diaphragm.
Got this little plastic piece which allows it to breather somewhat.
Then your cap.
Feel it back around that rear subframe, and bolt it back up.
Alright guys, that pretty much wraps this one up.
Not that tough to do especially if you have that little vacuum from Mityvac.
Well listen, if you need any of the parts that we used-- specifically that DOT4 brake
fluid-- why don't you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll do my best
to answer them.
Until next time we just want to say thanks for watching.