Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette!
In today's video, we'll discuss the 16 overcoat do's and don'ts so you stay stylish and warm
through the colder months of the year.
Rule no.1 and that's very dear to my heart, don't just buy the same black boring overcoat
that every other man out there has.
Black, in my opinion, is quite overrated especially for overcoats because it shows every little
hair and dust speck and you just blend in.
At the same time, an overcoat gives you the opportunity to really stand out from the crowd
and so I urge you to consider other colors such as brown, tan, maybe mixes, and we'll
talk more about it later in the video here.
Two, do look for longer overcoats.
By that, I mean something that covers your knee because you stay warmer that way and
traditionally, it's a very classic look that won't go out of style anytime soon.
If you go to the department store these days, you will find lots of shorter overcoats because
that's the current fashion, at the same time, it won't stand the test of time and it makes
you cooler.
The proper overcoat length can be very flattering to your look and it should be proportional
to your height.
If you're a shorter man, go with something that is knee length or slightly shorter.
If you're a taller man, go with something knee length or slightly longer.
If you're of regular height, just go with something around knee length.
If you watch old movies, you can sometimes see men wearing overcoats that reach all the
way down to the ankle and while that keeps you warmer, it definitely has a very stodgy
old world look and in my opinion, it makes you look less attractive.
Three, do opt for hundred percent natural materials in overcoats.
Unfortunately, even expensive overcoats these days are often blended because it makes the
fabric less expensive and thus more affordable or increases the profit margins of the manufacturer.
While polyester nylon fibers can make a garment more durable, they're not as insulating as
natural fibers such as cashmere, or wool, or alpaca, and because of that, I'd stay clear
of them.
They also don't age as well and so 100% natural materials will always be your best bet.
Personally, I'm a huge fan a hundred percent wool for overcoats because it's heavy, not
too expensive, it doesn't absorb water, and it keeps me warm.
Cashmere is really nice and soft to the touch, however, for overcoats, it's mostly too lightweight
and so I find it not to be warm enough for the colder days of the
year.
Four, don't buy an overcoat with a zipper.
Yes, you can see them in ski jackets and functional jackets but an overcoat is a classic garment
that is stylish and as such, you'd go with buttons.
In case you go with a duffle coat, you can also have wooden toggles but you can learn
more about that in our duffle coat guide here.
Yes, it's true that single-breasted coats are the norm out there but double breasted
ones make you stand out from the crowd and on top of that, they keep you warmer because
they have two layers of fabric on top of each other versus a single-breasted, it just has
one layer because it's buttoned in the middle.
If you opt for a double-breasted overcoat, make sure it has peak lapels because that's
a classic style or an Ulster collar which is also appropriate for DB overcoats.
Definitely stay away from notch lapels in double-breasted overcoats because it makes
it look like from the 80s and it's just historically incorrect.
Six, don't forget the Hat.
An overcoat is great to be worn with a hat because it keeps you warmer and because it's
a classic garment, it is stylish, a hat always
works well together.
For a darker more formal overcoat such as the one I'm wearing here right now in gray
with a black color, a Fedora is an ideal choice.
Alternatively, you can also go with a Homburg hat and you can learn more about that hat
style in this guide here.
If you want to be a little more casual, I suggest you go with a flat cap or a newsboy
cap and if you need to be really warm, you can opt for something that covers your ears
such as maybe a sheepskin hat.
Personally, I live in Minnesota where the winters get really cold but fortunately, I
haven't had to resort to those kinds of hats yet.
Seven, do wear a boutonniere or a pocket square with your overcoat.
If your overcoat has a buttonhole on a lapel, you should wear a boutonniere because it's
very stylish.
If your lapels have buttonholes on either side, always wear it on your left.
If your overcoat has a chest pocket, you can also wear a pocket square.
Ideally, only if it's a traditional chest pocket, if it's flat I would not wear a pocket
square and of course, if there's no pocket, you can't wear a square but
that goes without saying.
Eight, don't buy an overcoat that is too large and baggy because it makes you look unattractive.
First of all, determine how you want to wear your overcoat.
If you do want to wear a jacket underneath, make sure you have enough room in your overcoat.
Ideally, bring a jacket when you try them on and make sure you have enough space in
the shoulder area and in the upper arm in your sleeve, otherwise, you can end up with
a roomy coat in the torso that is just too tight in the sleeves and that limits the range
of movement, otherwise, in terms of fit, the same principles apply as they do in jackets
so I urge you to check out our guide on how a suit should fit here.
Nine, do look for striking yet classic details.
No, I don't want you to wear bright orange reflective overcoats,
however, I urge you to consider maybe an interesting weave in the fabric such as on this one here,
where you can see, it consists out of gray, black, and blue, and because of that, it's
super versatile because I can wear with all kinds of suits in those colors.
Also, it has a black velvet collar that really changes the look of the entire ensemble.
Alternatively, you could also go with a bold pattern, a classic would be a herringbone
and they can definitely be oversized, don't get something that is too small, you can wear
it for a suit but not for overcoats.
You can also go with epaulets, angle pockets, maybe cuffs, or whatever you like.
They're all classic details and it's just fun to play with them on an overcoat.
Ten, don't buy overcoats that combine the styles of different overcoats because they
will look dated very quickly.
Designers often want to add a little twist to their overcoat and so they start mixing
patterns and details from traditional overcoats.
Most of the time, they look just weird.
For example, if you have a trench coat, it should be made out of a cotton gabardine.
If you start making it in a wool fabric or in leather, the look is just very unadvantageous
and it makes you look like someone from the 80s or 90s.
Eleven, don't be afraid to invest a little money in a good-quality overcoat because it's
something that will last you longer than a suit most of the time and you also have to
buy fewer of them.
It's going to be a lasting investment and you really want to find something that drapes
well and flatters you because you can combine it
with your entire wardrobe.
Twelve, do consider vintage overcoats.
Personally, I love vintage overcoats because they have heavier
fabrics that drape really really well and on top of that, they have
interesting color combinations such as the coat I'm wearing here right now, in fact,
most of the overcoats in my collection are vintage and this one with a bold herringbone
pattern and belt and an Ulster collar actually found for $5.00 at a flea market.
It's really heavy, nice , and warm and I always get compliments when I wear it so wherever
you are, keep your eyes open.
Thirteen, don't mix an overcoat with casual attire.
If you want to wear your sweatpants, maybe go with a quilted jacket or a hoodie and leave
the overcoat at home.
Mixing those two elements just show "oh I want to dress up but at the same time I don't"
and it just makes you look odd.
The same is true for accessories such as baseball hats, they simply wouldn't go with an overcoat.
Fourteen, do look for heavy fabrics in an overcoat because they're much more forgiving,
they don't show wrinkles as easily, and they'll keep you warm.
Today a fabric with 14 to 19 ounces or 420 and 570 grams is considered to be heavy.
Back in the day, that was almost a lightweight overcoat and typically you could find some
in 28 to 30 ounces or 850 to 900 grams.
Fortunately, the cloth finishing today is much better so fabrics are softer which is
nice but that doesn't help you if you don't stay warm when it's really windy and cold
outside.
If you pick up an overcoat, it has to feel substantial and heavy, if it doesn't, I suggest
you leave it behind.
For the same reason, I'm not a huge fan of cashmere overcoats because, in
98% of its time, they're just a too lightweight and know there's a heavy version out there
I think from Loro Piana and if you can find that it might work out but of course it also
depends in what kind of climate you live.
Fifteen, don't show any cuff on an overcoat.
if you've been a regular follower of the gentleman's
Gazette, you've likely encountered our sleeve length guide.
If you haven't watched it yet, please do so now.
With regular suit jackets or sport coats, most men want to show a little bit of their
shirt cuff.
With an overcoat, that's not the case, you want it to reach all the way down to the beginning
of your thumb that way, it covers your entire jacket it gives a little room to
move without letting in the cold air.
At the same time, you don't want the overcoat sleeve to cover your thumb otherwise it looks
too long and like something you just borrowed from your older brother.
Sixteen, do look for the little button in the vent area because when it's very windy,
you can just close it and stay warmer that way.
if you have a long vent and you don't have a button, an alterations tailor may be able
to add a hidden buttonhole as well as a button so you can apply that.
Last but not least, a bonus tip, if you wear an overcoat, try to add classic accessories
such as a scarf or gloves.
Sometimes if you live in a very mild climate, that may not be necessary but most of the
time, you definitely want them.
Opt for dress leather gloves not your ski gloves, and go with nice cashmere or wool
or alpaca scarves that keep you warm and stylish.
For a selection of dapper gentleman scarves and gloves in various colors and patterns,
please check out our selection here in our shop.
if you enjoyed this video and want to learn more about
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can write your inbox in today's video and wearing a classic paletot
style overcoat from Chesterberry which is double breasted with six
buttons two of which are button and truth which are decorative it has regular flap pockets
no chest pocket but buttonholes in my lapels so I can wear it with a boutonniere the one
you can see here is the edelweiss which is one of our most popular lapel flowers the
buttons are made of a dark round horn which are natural and suit the formality of this
coat apart from the interesting hundred percent wool fabric
which consists of colors in charcoal gray blue and black something that really stands
out is the black velvet collar even if you have a solid overcoat it's
definitely something you can add after the fact it really changes the
entire look and perception of the garment as you can see the overcoat reaches below
my knee which is classic elegant and it keeps me warm it also has a little button in the
back which I can close if I want it for my pants I'm
wearing warm dark brown corduroys on my feet you can find Balmoral Oxford boots with a
cap toe in black which are lined with fur and that way my feet stay much more because
of that I also opted for a rubber sole which provides more grip and works better on salty
wintery roads and sidewalks the scarf is double-sided in silk and wool from Fort Belvedere it has
a burgundy base with tones blues orange and it works quite well with
my overcoat my hands are kept warm by petrol blue lamb nappa gloves with a cashmere lining
by Fort Belvedere which you can find in our shop here just like the scarf my hat's a vintage
felt Fedora from the German company I had added a contrasting hat band and although
it's Navy and my color is black it works really well with the
overall ensemble because of the different blue tones and gray tones and
black tones in my overcoat fabric