Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to do a simple oil change with a filter on our 2015 Kawasaki
KLX110.
It starts by just cranking it up, let it idle for a few minutes, get all that oil circulating
around inside the engine.
Then we'll lift it up and I'll show you how to get it done.
Alright, pretty short tool list on this one guys.
Just your standard 3/8 inch ratchet.
With that you'll need an 8, 12, and a 17mm socket.
A short extension, and then a decent torque wrench because you don't want to strip out
your oil drain plug.
And that's really about it.
Alright guys since we're doing an oil filter and an oil change, what we need to do is go
ahead and drop out this skid plate on the bottom.
I did notice after we warmed it up, you should set your oil level between these two marks.
Well, it's actually-- you can't even see the oil.
Somebody must have really over-filled this.
But we're going to straighten that out when we go to fill it.
First, let's get this skid plate out of the way.
Careful not to touch that exhaust because it is hot.
You're going to have just an 8mm on either side, and then a couple of twelves back at
the back.
Alright, we've got that skid plate out of the way so let's go ahead and drain it.
It's a 17mm about right there.
Make it drain a little bit faster.
Go ahead and pull the fill plug.
See how black that is?
Oh boy look at that-- and it still hasn't gotten down to the line yet.
Alright, while that's draining let's go ahead and get that-- get this cover right here.
Because that is where your oil filter is.
This oil filter housing is held on by two 8mms.
Make sure you have your pan over a little bit because some oil is going to come out
of it as well.
What you're going to have on the indside of this is the filter and then also a spring
inside of the cover.
So you're going to want to make sure you don't drop that spring or lose it.
So I don't really have to fish it out of the oil pan.
Alright.
There's your filter, and that spring is actually right there in the center.
Alright, the other thing we need to keep up with, it actually stayed on the engine casing,
is the O-ring for the housing.
See that right there?
So we need to make sure that goes in.
Alright, when this case came off-- or this housing came off-- there's a little bit of
dirt on the edge.
Some of that actually fell in to the inside of this so you're going to need to get that
cleaned back out before I put it back together.
I'm just using brake cleaner to do this, and as I've said many times before, wear some
eye protection when you're doing this.
Because if it sprays back and gets into your eyes it does not feel good at all.
Also when you're using brake cleaner or carb cleaner you don't want to get it on any type
of O-rings or seals.
Because it'll make these expand and they won't fit in there correctly.
Next thing I need to point out is this filter is directional.
So it is possible to put it in backwards.
What you're going to want is for the spring to go against this side which does not have
an O-ring.
so it needs to go in there like this.
Otherwise, you're not going to have any oil flow in the engine and that would be a bad
thing.
Alright, we've got our oil filter in, so let's go ahead and get that drain plug back in.
Make sure your crush washer is still on there.
Alright, your torque on your drain bolt is 21 foot-pounds.
Next, we'll go ahead and get our skid plate back in place.
It's just the reverse of what you did to take it off.
Two eights up front and two twelves in the back.
I usually put them all in hand-tight before I tighten them down, otherwise they don't
want to line up correctly.
Get this last one tightened down.
All that's let now is to go ahead and refill it.
According to Kawasaki, this unit holds 1.1 quarts when you do an oil change with the
filter.
So we can safely go ahead and dump in a whole quart.
They also ask that you use a 10W-40 and that's what we're going to use.
Of course when you're filling it up it's going to go above your gauge over here or your sight
because to get an accurate reading what you need to do is put that cap back on and start
it up for a few seconds and get oil circulating and fill in that cavity where the oil filter
is.
Start her back up and take a look and see where the oil level is.
Alright, let is settle for a few seconds and then we'll see where it ends up.
Alright, it's settles down a little bit.
She's almost exactly splitting the mark, just a tick lower than it should be so that's the
.1 coming into effect.
I'm a little bit of a perfectionist so go ahead and bring in that last little bit to
get her right in between the two lines.
And plus this won't be the last time that you're going to be changing the oil, so go
ahead and start off by ordering two quarts the first time.
And the from there on for probably the rest of the life of the machine you can just do
one quart because you'll always have a little bit to pull out of that original second quart.
Alright guys, well that pretty much wraps this on up.
The only thing I have left to do is just take my used oil and filter to the recycler.
Well listen, if you need any of the parts that we used on this come see us at partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
If you have a question or a comment, just leave them in the section below and I'll do
my best to answer them.
And until next time we just want to say thank you for watching.