Hi, this is Tomoa!
Akiyo!
I'm Ikedai!
Drive safely before everything.
Today, we're gonna answer your questions!
Let's start.
Alright. We're gonna do it.
Questions are all from our Instagram.
The first querstion.
Where are you looking at when doing coordination problems?
Line of sight is very important.
It depends on problems though.
I think which is more difficult. Hands or legs.
Then I look on more difficult one.
If a hand hold is blocked, I look on that.
I look on foot, if foot hold is small.
You should focus on harder ones.
I rather see both vaguely.
I do not just looking on one point.
I really look on one point.
For an instant moment.
In most cases when I jump, I look a foot hold first.
Then, I look hand hold as soon as my body move.
I normally look my first foot step.
Then, look hand hold.
If I need to do double dyno,
I look a part between hands and foot.
It's just a feeling. I sense a body position.
Like that.
OK. The next question.
Are you scared of a slab? How can I beat the fear?
I'm scared of it.
That's pitiful.
Why pitiful!?
If you're scared, you're body stop.
Need to fall as many as you can!
I am too scared, so I cannot fall...
I step down by myself..
When you fall, you study a safe way to fall.
Little by little.
I think about hitting my legs when I slip.
Volumes are so scary...
You never die. So don't be.
Since I've started climbing at Akiyo san's home.
And since to climb with Tomoa and Meichi (Tomoa's brother),
I've gotta new ideas about slab.
Before I thought it's really scary. I didn't see it's interesting.
But now I really love it.
That's awesome.
I still cannot step on slab without feeling fear.
Now I know I need to step on.
You should be rather careless.
Yes. Sometimes.
You do not know if your foot is holding.
But anyway you go next.
I'm not scared in the completions, but when practicing...
Maybe I'm not so concentrating on training.
I'm not scared when I'm focusing.
Who is the best climber you admire?
As a climber, I vote for Akiyo san.
Oh,
I thought you say "Tomoa".
I also do admire Tomoa.
I used to check all interview videos and articles.
Take that in account, I say you're the goddess.
Akiyo san may not remember this but...
On one interview, Akiyo san was answering
for the question "Why you are always so good on interviews?"
Akiyo san said,
"I always consider a chance to look back my own interview". When I saw it,
I thought that she is the coolest!!
I sometimes see me answering the things that I do not aware of..
and I can summarize my thoughts.
I need to have an interview regularly so that
I can manage myself and have my mental stable.
During the lockdown,
I missed a chance to review myself.
I spent difficult time I guess.
You two are on the side to be respected. Do you have anyone respect?
I originally liked Jan Hojer so much (Germany climber).
He is so cool.
I've started to climb on the world cup since 2014.
He was wining many times back then.
He has something that I don't.
He is tall and physically very strong.
I like his powerful moves.
I'd play him if there was a climbing game soft.
He is so cool.
I love him shouting.
Muscle body.
And so kind.
I am for a climber, Angela Eiter (Austrian climber).
She legendary won the world championships for the most times.
She is not a competitor anymore.
I have met her few times.
I've been respecting Angela Eiter for many years.
I gotta unforgettable moment.
What is it?
When I was with her during the world cup.
After semi-finals, I finished before her
and I was watching her on finals.
It was a switching move to change her position from a wall to another wall.
She got her shoulder dislocated
in finals.
The result was bad....
She came down with her shoulder damaged...
One of gold candidates were down...
Audience were noisy and worrying.
But she was waving her one hand to audience and other climbers.
She looked so damaged, but she was showing that she was OK.
I instantly felt "This is the professional".
Goose bumps moment.
Me too! Look!! lol
I almost broke into tears.
She definitely needed the doctor care.
But she stayed so cool.
I was a big fun of her since then!!
Now I'm in!!!
I'm in too!!
Those kind of a moment is only yours if you are in that moment together.
You see and feel when you are close.
Do you care about little finger when climbing?
You cannot climb if you do not feel about little finger.
Really!??
I have never care about it on speed.
Speed may be a bit different.
Speed is rather about all fingers, hands.
Let me explain.
Whether you focus on index or little finger.
It changes your pulling form.
For compression move and when holding sloper
you should focus on little finger. Expect for gaston.
Not on little finger
but on little finger "side". (Slightly different)
You pull on little finger "side"
If you are focusing on index finger, your shoulder get stressed.
It is good when you crimp.
But in my opinion, it's on other side.
You need to focus on your back, so you need to care on little finger side.
Your back is stronger than shoulder.
Back has more power and durable.
Yes. I think we get more power when focusing on little finger side.
Yes. Like that!
What is different between a normal V3 climbers and more than V9 climbers?
V9 is strong though....
Ability to change and fix.
If you cannot top,
some climbers can understand what was not good.
And understand what is good.
For example, when you are doing V4,
you think how you move ya body.
You feel your holding is not right.
You practice over and over.
Then finally you find the best moves on V4. The next is V5 and V6...
You study your weak or "you just feel it's too difficult".
It's really different.
Am I too strict??
Maybe it is too much.
Precision is important to fix ya move.
It is like how many variations you got.
How many you can come out with.
About moves?
Yeah.
You always have your own moves, right?
Like you have technics.
Making V4 V5 problems to V9 is
to adjust wall angle harder, foot hold bad
and hard holding...
On V4, moves are relatively easier.
Someone on V4 to be V9 climber
is like...making all moves extreme.
You think and add something new to your moves
and repeat that procedure and be stronger.
You study what is not enough and you fill the gap.
So if you are the complete perfect V4 climber,
that one can climb V9.
What a XXXX!!
(Channel watcher....)
It depends on which V9, no?
Yes... I went too extraordinary.
It was quite a complicated topic.
"Just your talent!!" shall be a funny answer. lol
On which grade you can climb then you can say a climber is middle class and upper?
So hard....
Say it in one two three?
A middle class? Middles?
In my head a middle is "this".
Here we go!
6c(V5), 6a(V3), 6b(V4)
A middle...then 6b(V4)!
Isn't 6c(V5) hard?
A big change between 6c(V5) and 6b(V4)...
Over 6b(V4) sounds a middle class??
Explain why.
Why? Ikedai?
Just feeling.
You say more than 6a(V3)?
Now I'm with 6b(V4).
Generally a route setter says that 6b(V4)
can be a start of setting what they just want to do.
Yes, I see that.
6b(V4) suddenly become hard...
A beginner may climb 5(V1) or 6a(V3), if he or she is good at sports.
But I hardly see someone climb 6b(V4) on the first day.
That's the wall between 6a(V3) and 6b(V4).
Isn't 6c(V5) has more higher wall than 6b(V4)?
Let's talk about an upper class.
Uno dos tres.
7b(V8)!!
Oh, now you synchronized!
7b(V8) is a big wall in front of you.
So a 7b(V8) climber is an upper class.
7b(V8) and 7a(V7) is totally different.
I see many 7a(V7) women.
But 7b(V8) not many and so strong.
Athlete level indeed.
7b(V8) women can be a national competitor?
One point advise to anyone who wants to be stronger.
Gamba♡!!
Just like that??
I haven't said anything...
Go!!!
Fight!!!
Does it help?
What is the limited width of crimp you can hang on to?
I am so week on this.
6mm is max..lol
Let's try next time altogether.
mm Crimp Challenge.
FIingers will be.. (´;ω;｀)
Give me an advantage.
Never done 3mm or 4mm.
8mm is OK.
How do you judge "Holding"?
3 seconds?
3 seconds.
Do you have a routine to enhance your concertation before you attempt?
Individually different I guess.
I see the sky or audience.
How about on training? Indoor?
I look far away distance. Then look my hands.
I see you looking at far away.
See the distance ,then see yourself a bit.
Just before an attempt, see hands.
It's like to see mind in yourself.
Me when I concentrate,
I prepare from the day before climbing.
Even on training, if I wanna have a speed record or to send a route,
I decided to do my best before go to bed.
Sleep.
And in the morning, I am on. As if
I am like a hunter ready to take get it.
Wake up and set your mind to "Today's Goal".
Eat breakfast. You eat for your daily target.
I imagine to get the top, so I warm up for it.
Well...I cannot be ready instantly.
I need to prepare.
If you prepare enough,
there is a high probability that you send it.
I am always just being excited.
But preparing is a fun part.
I calculate in reverse way from the top.
If my calculation was correct. That is the one moment.
I am always excited from the day before race vs Ikedai.
So exciting.
See? You are preparing from the day before?
For the world championships 2019, I've been excited for few months.
I said it, right? You're on it from days before.
Makes you excited.
To enjoy.
I am a year-12 high school student. Is it too late to be the top level?
Never.
Never say that.
We have a lot of people who will teach you and many information's on Google.
It is totally different between "your are strong when young" and "you are strong when old".
Totally!!
Your future is ahead.
Gamba!!
A lot of questions about SPEED climbing.
How can you be faster with Tomoa skip?
How do you do Martin Sabri move?
Wanna see speed lesson by Tomoa and Ikedai.
Speed lesson shall we?
OK. Let's do it next time!
Good!
Teach me too.
It's on me.
I shall do it!
What do you think about followers and subscribers?
Love you all💛
I really like everyone♡
LOVE♡
We arrived.
OK.
We need to say good bye this time. Thanks for many questions!
Thank you very much!
That all for this time!
We should do this again!
Please subscribe and like us!
See you!
The coming video!!! Who cannot make 5seonds is a looser!
The winner will get free Japanese BBQ for 3 persons!!
Well, I'm the world champion, so I cannot loose here.
So fast!!
Nooooo!
Crazy!!!
Can you continue??
Ikedai...is gonna be tired....??
Who is loosing...!?
This crazy game will never end.....
Can't be...Is he a human....?
Who will win...Tomoa or Ikedai??
Subtitle by FreiHeit