Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan in this video we start to make
a thread stop this is the thread stop what it does it clamps to the cross slide
using this movable jaw which slides along this aluminium and is held in
position with a roll pin,
The screw on the end a 4mm screw would adjust it in and out
So it will clamp on to your cross slide and give you a stop.
and through this hole goes a screw which goes into your cross slide so if you're
moving and out it will stop at that position.
Today we're making this part in the next video we'll make the screw and see how it's used.
So let's go to the workshop see how we do it.
To get the measurements I've just used a caliper.
Digital caliper across the width of the slide, the full width to give you an idea of the material you need
and then use the end to give me the depth
and then width of the block. I've just used some 15mm aluminium which I already had.
I've transferred the sizes to a block which is like this.
And to get the angle I've used a protractor on the face
then just judge the angle here
The first thing I want to do is drill a hole
in the corner there with the edge meets.
Then I can drill a hole here cut this piece out to form the dovetail.
A half-inch milling cutter end mill in an ER20 collet
This is the end mill I sharpened up a few weeks ago.
what I will do now is machine the face I've just sawn parallel.
I clocked up on this by zeroing in on there and getting this zero the other side.
so I know this is now parallel
I've set up a dial indicator on the saddle so I can see what cut on putting on
because I've got no way of moving it in except for the course feed on the saddle.
So the dial indicator tells me in tenths of a thou how much I've fed it in.
Now I'll set my dial indicator to zero so that's the depth I want to go.
when I get that zero point to know that I'm level.
I've done half of it so now I'm going to back it out.
lift the slide up
And go in to cut the other half.
If this is vibrating and rocking about what you need to do is tighten your jib strips up.
On the three axes that's the saddle the cross slide and the compound slide.
If you tighten the jib strips up.
you should be able to get a better cut with out It vibrating too much.
I've just touched the edge there with the tool so now all I need to do is go
to the depth that I need
I've changed my cutter for a 10mm instead of a half-inch this materials 15mm thick.
so the cutter should be in the center of this block.
What I want to do is mill in to this block to the depth of this face.
Zero on this face
Reset my dial indicator.
That's because I've changed the cutter. The zero positions moved because the cutter length is different.
See I've set that to zero so when that cutter touches the face.
It's on zero
That should be that for the milling.
when I finish this end off, this will fit on the end of the cross slide
and then we'll start making the adjustment here to lock it.
take a piece of 10mm wide aluminium.
This is 15mm thick the body with a 10mm slot so the 10mm aluminium you put radius on the end.
So that this piece will fit into there.
Then what we're going do on here is
Cut this off level with the top put an angle on the back and this will form.
The opposite side of the dovetail ,then we're going to drill a hole in the back.
So as you tighten the grub screw up in the back it pushes this piece in and locks up the bracket.
I've just filed it flat on the top I've left a bit sticking up.
I've marked down 5mm and then I've marked two marks.
one in the middle of the aluminium and one 3mm away and around the end.
I've mark the centre 5mm down and I've marked the center and that's where you need to drill.
The next job is to drill a hole through here and put the pin through
mill this level with the flats
I've just lined up on the hole 5mm in from the edge.
I've left the small block still in there so I'm clamping that in.
I will drill a 3mm hole straight through here.
That 3mm hole will take a small roll pin to hold this jaw in.
The pin will fit tight into this hole when the jaw is fitted.
so that it will travel in and out along the two holes and you can't lose the jaw part
I don't want this hole to go into this blockI will tap that out so that it will go straight through.
With a small round file just join the two holes together.
Now what I've done is just using the projector which I set up before to the angle.
When I started to make the part I put a line from the point in and now I'll file this piece off.
File it back until it'll it will fit into the cross slide.
To check the angle you fit the part to the cross slide rub up and down.
Put some micrometer blue on the cross slide and you should have a mark most of the way across the face.
You can see it's touching at the top and the bottom that shows you've got the correct angle.
All I'm trying to do now is reduce the part so when it's fitted in there this will slide on.
I'm still a little bit big so eventually you'll get the part to slide on
You don't want that to loose, if you file too much off this jaw.
It's loose is just taking up adjustment that you could have.
Now that's level with the top it's got the right angle and it fits on the dove tail.
You can either leave this square on the top or take the edges off it's up to you
I think I'll leave it for the moments because I might be able to drill a hole
through here to fix a dial indicator so I can actually use it for other things
I've just put a 1/2" mild steel bar in the ER20 collet and I'm going to machine.
That down to 7mm diameter what I'm making is a bush to go into this hole I've just drilled
on the end so that instead of the screw thread
been formed in aluminium it'll be in steel there'll be a head on the bush on
the inside so it can't pull out.
That's just starting to go in, the way I've done that is every time I turn the diameter
size I come out and I take another 0.1mm off the beginning.
So when the goes on I know I've got 0.1mm
bigger it's just a way of using your part as a gauge so I don't want that to
come any smaller because I want you to be a tight fit and I actually go inside
this end so what I need to do now is reduce this diameter down to 10mm
Which was the diameter of the milling cutter so it will fit in this slot
Now the size is not important as long as it fits that slide over there
its going on this way so that will go inside the diameter should fit
because this is not square it's got a radius on
I'll just put chamfer on the back
I will need to file the outside diameter down level with that
because that hole you can see is near enough at the bottom so It will have a flat bottom that will stop it turning
That should end up It won't do because of the diameter
But that will end up going that way through this hole.
Nice tight fit
As you can see as I push it in here thats putting tension on the tap.
So it's spring-loaded take it out and put the tap wrench on
As I have the collet fitted I've some spanner flats I can fit a spanner on there turn this round.
I'll just drop the speed
you can just say I filed square on the end of lift the top filed the two sides
and the bottom so it will fit closer to the back I can put that in the bore
and then using the cap head tighten the cap head up and that should pull the bush in.
Because I've added the bush here I've had to flatten off the back the roll pin
will still fit in the slot and you can see the bush is just coming out.
So now I've got the steel thread in there instead of aluminium so I should be able
to put more clamping pressure on and more tighten it it's pulling the bush out this way so it won't come out
I've just taken a piece of 5/16 BSW threaded bar
Which is the thread size for the stop on the cross slide and I've turned a point on it
Now I've screwed the threaded bar in and that gives me the point
So that gives me the center position of that hole
now if I fit the screw cutting stop tighten the screw up
when I bring this back the point on the screw should have made a centre mark on the part.
You see I've tried to draw around it to try and guess where it is
but now I know exactly where the centre is all we need to do is drill a hole through there.
Well that's the aluminium block finished in part two we'll start making the
clamping screw and see how it works thanks for watching hope that's useful
We will see you next time on Enots engineering