This video is brought to you by Sporlan quality, integrity
and tradition.
A walk in freezer that is not working today.
We come up into here.
It's cold in here, but
the ice cream is clearly liquid.
It is milkshake material.
So we need to get up into here.
This does have the heat craft.
Q RC controller.
So we need to get up in here and we'll figure out what's going on.
All right.
We got this guy opened up and it looks like we are in service mode,
which is interesting.
We should be.
Able to if you come to the manual right here, I've got the PDF pulled up.
If you hit
force service pressing this button twice will cause the system to pump down.
This will remain off until the clear button is pressed.
While the force service will show SeR.
So theoretically,
we should be able to hit clear
oh, and it goes
right back into service mode.
That's not good.
That's not good at all.
The other thing that I'm noticing is look at this board.
Look at all the terminals.
There's a massive amount of corrosion.
It's actually covered in what looks to be grease.
This restaurant's really bad.
Yeah, there's grease everywhere.
This thing is, like, corroded from the grease.
Look at that.
It's completely deteriorating the board.
That's not good.
Let's try to power cycle it
OK, so I pulled the 24 volt power off the board.
We're going to give it a second and fire back up.
See if we can get this guy to start up
There we go.
So it started back up, and it's going in to pump down
Hmm. Or it's pumped down
and I'm kind of worried here that we might have about.
Well, I know we have a bad board.
You can clearly see the corrosion on it.
But I'm wondering if I can get this thing going for the night
because it's late at night.
Well, not late, but it's 5:00.
Supply houses are all closed by now.
There was a twist timer right here, and that can put it into service mode.
It pumps the unit down.
It's like a door switch.
So I disconnected that just to make sure.
So let's test to see if the board is actually getting 24 volts.
It is. It's got 24 volts.
But this unit keeps put itself into service mode.
Well, if we've got 24 volts going to the board
and it's putting itself in the service mode.
Pretty good odds that this is just plain a bad board.
so i will have to look around and hopefully find one of these
at a local supply house.
So stop the video real quick right here if you're interested.
We actually just got a new shipment of hats back in stock.
We briefly ran out of stock just for a short period of time,
but we are back fully stocked.
Large, extra, large, small, medium.
These are the black HVACR videos hat I put a lot of thought into these.
They're actually like a breathable material.
It's not a trucker like mesh style. Hat.
But if you hold the hat up to the light, there is it's hard to explain,
but there's a lot of little holes in it and it helps to breathe really well.
And then the way that I designed them, I actually didn't put my logo on them.
I just put a VCR because I was hoping
they wouldn't conflict with anybody's uniform policies.
And then one of the really important things is the underbill, black underbill
I really wanted that because I was sick of ruining hats
by grabbing them and adjusting them with dirty hands and stuff.
So if you're interested, go to my website, HVACRvideos.com All right.
So I just called the emergency after hours phone number for United Refrigeration.
I'm hoping that somebody gives me a call back soon.
My other supply house.
I can't get a hold of right now, which is absolutely ridiculous.
So I was able to log in on the computer, find out that they had this circuit board.
But it's a little concerning because they only have one
at their Santa Ana, California location.
So I'm currently waiting for a call back from the after hours or the on call
counterparts and basically so
I'm going to take a gamble and start heading that way.
All right. I am back.
I verified we don't have any power to the board.
I turned off power, locked it out.
Only thing I'm a little concerned about is the look at that
display.
It's all that color and it doesn't seem like a sticker.
that's different?
But anyways, let's see what happens.
So we're going to just replace that wire for wire and then we'll start it back up
and then I'll have to program.
I don't even know what the refrigerant is on this one.
I have to look through my notes because you set the refrigerant.
Maybe I have it written down in the condensing unit.
Usually I do.
So I'll go up there and look and see too.
Well, it's all installed.
Just wire for wire.
Everything's back in the EXV harness up there.
Main 24 volt power from the transformer, the evaporator sensors
and air temperature sensor and then pressure transducer right here.
I'm not really going to wire this guy in yet because I want to figure out
what's going on and because it was stuck in service mode,
I want to make sure that this thing isn't shorted, causing that or something,
something funky with it.
Everything looks good,
so we're going to have to power it on and hope nothing blows up.
I got to go up and check the refrigerant to
All right.
Well, it seems to be running, so we're going to go through the program.
Let's see.
We put it into service mode, OK, so in service mode
and we should be able to go through all the settings.
So we're going to give it a second
and then the evaporator fan moters should turn off
and then we'll be able to go through.
And I did confirm that it is 4o4a So I'll go through the settings real quick
to be kind of hard for the camera to see
so program review, a three
is here. We need it to be
electric.
Enter
refrigerant,
we're going to change it to 404.
That's correct.
Box temp
should be -10.
That's correct.
Super heat,
seven degrees I'm fine with that.
Is it a slave coil now?
Correct.
Demand defrost.
Yes, it's set up for demand defrost.
OK, that's fine.
Defrost failsafe time, I believe.
30 minutes. That would be fine.
Defrost, failsafe, temp.
Usually we have.
Oh no. 60 degrees. That's pretty good.
Ali, that's an alarm.
I think I'll double check that.
I'm not too worried about that air. Well,
-15. 80.
I don't think any of these mattered
Fahrenheit or Celsius.
We need it on Fahrenheit. That's fine.
Fine, fine.
That's the Stern fan cycle.
It's in hometown mode right now.
I should be able to hit clear
and it should, I believe, restart.
I'm going to go through that manual, make sure I did that.
All right, so we're set up, right?
We're just waiting for it to turn on its in its delay right now.
It says off. It doesn't say pump down any more.
Because I cleared it by hitting the clear button.
So we're going to wait for it to turn on.
Then we'll check the stats,
make sure it starts getting cold in here and hopefully we should be good to go now.
Let's go and investigate that circuit board.
So we look at the circuit board,
basically, look at
these buttons, look at how corroded they are now.
I think what's happened here, notice that it's hitting everything.
I don't think that the board has failed because of moisture per say.
I believe the grease because there's grease all over the board.
Look at the back.
It's covered in grease. That's all grease.
I believe that the customer leaving the door open allowed grease.
It's all sticky and everything in that grease is acidic, I think, in some way.
And it started to eat away and rotted out because I have Q RC units
working much longer than this and moisture doesn't tend to cause these issues
that I've seen.
So we're going to wait a little bit longer and wait for the box to turn on
and then we'll verify everything's working.
I actually have another service call.
It's 738
on a Tuesday right now, and I still have another service
call about an hour and a half away. For another walking color down.
So this thing is kicking, but it's already down to 19 degrees.
It's nice and cold.
I don't know why that displays that orange color like that.
It's weird, it's getting cold, everything's cool.
I went ahead and changed this twist timer to because this,
like I said, does activate the service mode.
It was full of moisture.
Change that out and I'm going
to turn it off wire the switch timer back and make sure it works and go from.
All right. I tested the twist timer.
Now that is a 15 minutes with timer if they're supposed to
when they do like product loading and stuff
they come in and they twist that so it initiates a pump down.
So it takes a few minutes for the fans to turn off
but they will turn off eventually to essentially it'll do what it did
when I first got here where it's at the pump down
and it's in service mode, but
it was indefinitely in service mode before.
So we went out and changed that.
I saw it operate and come down to temp I'm
going to start putting the covers back on
and I am going to come back and do a follow up.
Like I said,
I actually do have another walk in cooling call
I have to go get two, so I'm going to make sure this goes into cooling mode again.
Just check the program one more time, make sure everything's still the way
I left it. Electric defrost
the refrigerant 44 box temp -10.
I always want to make sure your settings took effect.
Seven degrees, super heat. It's not a slave.
All the other stuff demand defrost.
I went out and left it in demand defrost.
All right. Cool.
So we're good
I don't really see any other things going on there.
We're back to the off mode.
We're just waiting for the display.
So super heat.
51 degrees because it's not running.
Yeah. Everything I think is OK.
So we're going to
wrap it up and then we'll follow up by tomorrow.
Real quick.
Ran up to the condensing unit,
potentially trying to clean.
We'll investigate it more when we come back.
To follow up, come in here
I'm not really thinking we have any sort of a refrigeration problem
sight glass is clear.
All looks good to me.
So we're going to get out of here for tonight.
I'm going to go take care of that other walking cooler call I have.
And like I said, I'll be following up,
investigating a little bit further, making sure,
you know, everything's still working right and stuff.
And I'll test the heaters. And all that fancy stuff.
So further evidence shows.
You look at all the calcium buildup around these.
Hinges, right?
And then there's buildup right here.
And there's buildup all over this, too.
So is there water dripping down?
Well, no, there's no water sources up here.
And what it is, is.
This door whether or not.
Yeah, see, the door has got that door closure and it's not shutting in.
The customers leaving it open like that.
Notice just how nasty and rusty everything.
Is because they've been leaving it open consistently. So,
yeah, we'll get them.
To look at that.
It wouldn't shut.
Imagine if you go all the way, it'll probably shut
yeah.
That way I'll shut.
But still, we'll get a new door closure.
These hinges are going to need to be replaced to They're pretty beat up.
But look at that. Look at how bad that is.
Seriously, from leaving this door open.
Way too much for everything.
It's like 20 degrees in here right now. It's cooling.
So that's it. For tonight.
All right, I'm back. It's the next day.
Customer says the walk in is working good.
But I was a little scared because I walked in and it's in service mode again.
But the ice cream.
Is hard, so it re- froze, which isn't good.
But what I actually found,
it's in twist time remote.
So they were actually doing what they were supposed. To be doing.
So once I did that, it's going to start up.
And why isn't this motor starting
that's ood?
Do we have a motor going bad?
That was a little weird.
Let's see if I can get it to do it again.
Oh, well, no, I'm not going to get to do it again.
So we just need to wait for it to come out of a pump down.
We can probably force it out
and then we're just going
to check the heaters and everything already got the covers pulled off.
We'll check to make sure the defrost heaters are all working.
I want to test the defrost on this guy.
So we're going to force it into defrost by hitting force defrost
evaporator fan motors turned off defrost.
Heater should have turned on all the control is in these relays.
You've got heaters and you have evaporative
fan motors on one side and then your EXV, and all that stuff.
So what I'm noticing is this whole coil has
a bunch of you could tell it's been
deteriorating because of the moisture and everything.
It's really interesting.
I'll take you over to this other side and show you just the discoloration
in of everything.
And it's honestly, in my opinion, this whole box of grease everywhere.
So the grease is just wreaking havoc on everything
but just look at the discoloration on the aluminum
terminals and stuff that's all from like moisture and stuff.
It's very interesting.
So I'm going to get on here and test current on all these heaters real quick.
So there is four total heaters on this guy,
1.6, two on one of them.
lets see.
And then I just got to get into here off to play around and get to the other ones.
But we want to see current on every single heater
1.6 on another.
So that's two of them.
Those two are the drain pan heaters.
Now we're getting to the coil heaters, 3.18.
So that's three
and then the last 3.16, something to remember is that, you know,
you need to make sure you have it in the right place on your amp clamp.
If you move it around, it's going to change, right?
So most meter manufacturers are going to tell you that they want you
to measure, you know, at the end of the clamp
or in the middle of the, you know, wherever.
But notice that we are going to see a current change as we move it around, OK?
It may be minimal.
It may be a lot.
You just want to know the limitations of your meter and how it works. OK,
I am looking good here.
We saw voltages yesterday.
Voltages were all good.
Proper voltages was being delivered.
You always want to make sure that your transformer right there is tapped.
Right.
This is a 28 volt transformer, so it's 208 to 24.
It can be 240 to 24 right.
And if it's not tapped right,
then the board is going to get improper voltage,
especially where I'm at in Southern California where we'll have voltage drops
in the summertime.
When it gets really hot outside and the demand goes up,
we'll see the voltage drop down.
So if you have the transformer tap wrong, for instance on 240 volt
you know it may survive when you're getting 210 volts or something,
but then as it heats up and as the voltages drop,
you're going to start to see that 240 volt transformer being delivered,
you know, 206, 200 volt,
199 volts and it's not going to give
the right low voltage output and that's going to mess with the board.
So you need to be 100% sure that your transformers are tapped correctly.
All right.
We're done with defrost.
I'm going to hit clear, OK, and it should go into,
we should be able to clear the defrost and see if I can remember
I can't remember if it's reset time.
It's not. There we go. Yeah.
So we cleared the defrost.
It's in the drain mode right now.
And it's going to take a second.
It's going to drip all the water off.
Then it will start the evaporator fan motors back up.
We're going to run up onto the roof and check the refrigeration cycle again.
Just to make sure.
So I talked to the customer about the evaporative farmer that started slow.
They said they just want to leave it be because it's working right now.
So it is what it is.
The site glass is still clear.
I don't see any other issues here.
We can clearly see through the condenser.
So I thought it was dirty last night, but it's not.
All is well up here.
So we are going to wrap this one up and tell them to keep an eye on it.
You know, it can get frustrating in the video.
First off, I want to address the supply house thing.
I reached out.
I was trying to reach out to
my local supply house that I normally use all the time.
United Refrigeration, I don't necessarily always use there's another one,
but I'm starting to get pretty frustrated because that other particular
supply house, they're on call thing is a nightmare.
Each store has its own phone number.
There's not a general like 800 number that you call
and I didn't have those phone numbers, you know,
and then you go to the website and there's nothing listed on who to call.
So I had to drive basically
35, 40 miles away from where I was to go find another supply house.
And I know that maybe those of you in the Midwest and,
you know, some of the more rural parts, that's something normal for you.
But here in Southern
California, we're Metropolis, I mean, we have stuff everywhere.
And usually I have a supply house within
five to ten miles for the most part of most of the locations.
That I'm working at.
So it's a bit frustrating that I had to drive
the opposite direction in traffic because my normal supply house,
I didn't have their phone number.
It's just a whole thing.
But United Refrigeration came in clutch, so they get some free advertisement.
Good for them. I was pretty irritated that day. So
but anyways, so
walking into this call, I have never had to change
a circuit board on one of these QR Seize or the intelligent units.
OK, I've never had a circuit board fail cross my fingers I didn't know the process
or the procedure to diagnose a board, but using basic logic.
OK, the board runs off 24 volts.
I've got 24 volts it was in service mode.
I read the instructions, it says, you know, service mode can be initiated
two ways.
And when you push and release the clear button service goes away.
But then it immediately came back.
It was pretty logical that we had a bad board.
I mean it wasn't that difficult to diagnose.
And then once I replaced it, boom system was back on and running.
So Customer was happy they decided not to change that other evaporative
and motor for now.
Hey, I give them the information, you know,
everything else seemed to be good, so all was well.
I really appreciate you all making it to the end of the video as usual.
Please did a little commercial in this one,
but check out my website HVACRvideos.com great way to help support the channel.
You can get some merchandise,
hats, beanies, sweaters, shirts, all that good stuff.
Women shirts too. So check it out again.
I really appreciate you and we will catch you on the next one, ok.