- Welcome to Weld.com, I'm Bob Moffatt.
Been fielding multiple questions
about rod manipulation, how do you do certain passes?
Recently did a demo where we did uphill
and downhill, high low, and I'm gonna use
this pipe that we ran the root
to run a hot pass.
I'll show you some technique.
I've already ground out the edges here.
I'm gonna show you some stitch techniques
that I personally use.
I'll run a stick, a couple sticks
of 3/32 7018 for a fill.
I'll run some 1/8 inch.
We'll run multiple rods here,
just to show you, and we'll talk about
some simple techniques that may get you by
and get you focused on these welds, uphill and pipe.
All right, rule number one:
Always remember where the center of the pipe is,
because, I think, and I watch people do this,
and I think it's, I think they're kinda lost here.
They'll start out, and they're startin' it,
pointin' the rod into the center of the pipe,
and by the time they get up here,
they're like pushin' this rod horribly.
And they've pretty much lost control
of their pool.
They're spittin' fire out the leading edge.
I just don't, I don't like to see that.
I don't don't like to see it with MIG welding especially .
Flux core you really need to know where you're
at all the time, so always remember
where the center of the pipe is.
And as you're doing your manipulations,
you have to do this transition, okay.
Always remember where the center of the pipe is.
The technique that I'm gonna use is,
again, it's just a slight stitch, a whip.
People call it a whip.
I don't care what you call it,
but it's a manipulation where
I establish the weld pool,
I step out of it so it'll freeze.
When I come back in around the weld pool,
I wanna be on the leading edge of it,
because 6010 just kinda digs and falls down.
So it's like I wanna make a series
of little stitches goin' up.
The reason for a hot pass is to gouge out impurities,
light slag, get into this and add some meat to it
so you can put some fill passes in.
Okay so I wanna start out down here on bottom.
I'ma establish my pool, stitch out of it,
and I'm just gonna make a light stitch all the way up.
I wanna talk about amperage briefly.
I'm gonna run 105.
I'm in here close to my machine.
I can change my amperage.
I'm gonna run 105.
Recently somebody commented and said
I need to run my hot pass at 111.
I don't know what.
I laughed at him.
Run it wherever you want.
Run it where it works.
If I'm runnin' off a mobile rig,
I'll run everything on the same amperage.
I'll run 1/8 inch 6010 at about 85 amps.
I'll run my hot pass at 85 amps,
and just manipulate my arc.
I'll use 3/32 7018 if I'm runnin' on schedule 40 pipe.
I'll just run 'em all on the same amperage, okay.
It's technique and adjustment, arc length adjustment,
I should say.
(welder hissing)
Got a hot pass done with 6010, 1/8 inch,
and now I've dropped the amperage back.
I'm gonna run 3/32 7018.
I wanna do a fill pass over the top of this hot pass.
Again, I need to remember where the center
of the pipe is so that I can make
my transition all the time.
I do not wanna start the rod
and then never do anything.
I don't want this angle up here.
I need to always maintain the center
of the rod pointed at the center of the pipe.
Can't stress that enough.
What we probably wanna avoid is doin'
any kind of a big U-motion here.
The arc digs.
The weld pool sags.
We get a high crown of a profile.
I like to see things lay in pretty flat.
What makes sense to me and what works
for me is actually just the opposite.
I wanna tie into the side of the toe
of the weld over here, blend into the bevel face,
go up slightly into the groove,
over, back across straight.
To me that fills, it cleans,
the arc is always on clean metal,
and I can maintain this profile in here.
You know, like for an eyebrow-type motion,
this very slight upside-down U or flat triangle.
I hope that helped.
I hope that answered the viewer questions
about rod manipulation in different situations.
Again, hot pass, we did a little gentle stich up and down.
You can go slightly side to side.
Depends on how much material you wanna lay in
for your hot pass, what kinda profile you want.
The manipulation with the low hydrogen rod was pretty
much straight back and forth, just a gentle U,
or a lazy triangle, up into the groove,
tie into the sides and it'll lay in there pretty flat.
And it doesn't matter what size rod.
That's kinda how I go about it,
but then I watch the depth of fill.
You can pause on the sides.
It'll still lay flat.
And you can fill it up.
Stringer beads, you just gotta watch your transition
and your travel speed.
Make 'em nice and round and consistent.
So I hope that helped, and I hope
that answered the viewer comment,
question, and everything.
That's for watchin' Weld.com.
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