Hello folk's Kirk with kirk giordano plastering, my son is usually doing the video work and all the
tech stuff Oh what I'm going to show you guys today is the proper way to add two more layers
to this timing remembering now this this tae Baek is really good stuff it's engineered so
that the wind doesn't tear it it's really nice you need a utility knife and I recommend putting
on a new blade each time you use it because you can rip through it but you can't tear it anyhow
in some cities they allow just the Tyvek but we're going to add two more layers of great D
building paper on top of this because I don't want to guest as far as which city allows it
and I although it's recommended we can use this I never do I always put two more layers
on it if we comes into situations the fella here who did this timing actually did a real
nice job he put up tape right here over all the joints as you're supposed to all your vertical
joints get taped so he did a real nice job I think he was going to go Sidon at one time
but he decided on the stucco what we're doing here is we're putting drip screens around the
perimeter okay the foundation is here and this drip screed goes I generally go one inch below
the plywood and the idea is the water is going to go through the two layers of stuff open more
than likely through the paint also land on my two layers of papers as well as this layer come here
and drip harmlessly when I bring this down and cut it it'll drip harmlessly onto the screen and
through the weep holes so that's what this this is a weep or drip screed means the same thing
also gives us something to stop - and equally important is it gives the house a little bit of
ability to flex a lot of homes don't have a week screen and they tend to crack more
especially under all windows and doors we get to that stage where we're wiring they'll show
you that too with a Tyvek membrane or any other size type of membrane when we're applying our two
layers more paper the important thing to remember is the inspector is going to see this right here
they want to see that whatever membrane we use is underneath the flashing membrane around the
window so what I'm going to do when I get to this point is we're going to bring our two layers of
paper straight up we're going to cut this and I'm going to slide my two layers underneath this put
it back down so we're going to use historic as a moisture barrier also as far as the studs where
the heck are the studs it's all covered well when we lifted this I went ahead and marked the
studs the studs are every sixteen on set which means those of you can't find studs this jet is
on the stud here disappear the windows are on studs here here I know where they are without
marking them because I've been doing this a while every 16 inches on center I'll show you guys some
things that are important when we get to the next date after we wire it I'm sorry after we paper it
then I'll show you guys some important things on how to do the wire because I do a lot of work for
contractors and because of the recession they're doing their own paper and wire and they're not
doing it proper so hopefully if you're trying to do this you'll do a proper meaning you put the
wire in correct direction and on the right side so that the salford backs the wire away from the
wall that way we can get some mud underneath and on top of that wire so it's in the center anyway
we'll get to that later I just wanted to show you where we're going with this hi Vic membrane
and our two layers over it okay guys here's the important thing that I want to show you no matter
what membrane is on the house this particular house has got the tie bit stuff I'm putting my
two layers of paper here what do I use two instead of one well these are spot glued together meaning
you pay a few bucks more for two layers as opposed to one layer so you might as well go ahead and buy
the two later because two is cold anyway so I'm cutting right here at the flashing right here
at the flashing and I'm taking this paper and I'm going underneath here and we tuck it right
there and then once we get it underneath these two layers and it's under this membrane here too
so I'm all the way up under this membrane right here the like a window wrap almost like a grace
membrane it's a peeling stitch so I'm underneath this guy here now I'm going to now my next layer
of paper is going to go to the window and over this horizontally three inches so it will all
the way to here to the window then we're covering this that's what gives it all the waterproofing
properties because again whether or not they painted most paints are not waterproof unless
you go with the color more last American which is water-resistant and that's that's only between 7
to 12 years anyhow we're pretending like they're not going to waterproof this at all and we're
doing all the waterproofing so our paper goes to the window and then of course we're going to feel
even though they're sealed here we're still going to take our paper and go to the window and seal it
with on on Sikaflex polyurethane caulking when I do painting I use a different coffee but for
this we are sealing it up with the polyurethane so we're going to go ahead and pay for this whole
wall all the way down then when we're all done with the paper I'll show you guys the proper way
to do the wires okay guys we're at a stage where we're done with the bottom you always work at
the bottom overlap your paper so here's paper we started with and we're overlapping it three inches
with a horizontal seen we're kicking this window right here an inch and a half around with the wire
because he's going to put some trim here and he wants to build it up like he did the rest of the
house where it has a sill and then some red what stops around here so when I do my caulking today
here I'll take a splat stick and I'll put real flat right here otherwise his red wood trim Oh
Rock so rather than me the way I usually do it but a fat beat of caulking here it's going to be
a bead of caulking here then I take a flat stick like a painter stick and just flatten that out and
of course we're nailing off every six inches on Center studs so you get the idea because getting
around here but you start from the bottom you work your way up and when I get to that stage
there I'll show you how to do the corners finally that'll be the completion of it okay guys we
wrapped it up here notice wait here's a Sikaflex polyurethane caulking and all the edges right
there that's just stuff right here good stuff it just seals the paper to the flange and although
we're flashed and reflash never heard put this on better over building under build different kind of
ceilings been all used for painting I'll use for painting a different solution more of a latex foot
for this where we want to fuse everything that's what we use okay got one quarter I'm going to put
on here we're going to get out of here I don't know if you can see the top here you can see the
top up there I notched the corner out so it goes all the way to the rafters don't put the last guy
right here these corners got to line up we have insurance mom they're our guy but the guides are
wrong our I've been doing this a long time trying to use a gun but you guys who are trying to do
himself probably better off just nailing you guys yeah it is we want this corner to line up with
the drip screen here Oh come away from that corner there so not too many staples we want to you want
to be embedded we put our scratch code on here we want it to go behind some guys get carried away
and put the lot of staples you don't necessarily need all that much all right guys my son and I
are going to get out of here we thank you for watching maybe you learn something if you don't
want to do this kind of stuff call me or somebody like me thanks again we'll see you at the next one.