(bright music)
- How does it keep doing that?
Are you tired of your Switch playing every game
like it's Initial D just drifting all over the place?
There's a solution.
The Gulikit Joy-Con replacement sticks.
They use Hall Effect Sensors,
which are like, they're sensors that detect magnets.
Four screws and a ribbon cable,
and I can get this installed and that's all that I need.
Now, if you've never worked with Gulikit's stuff before,
I mean, they've got a couple of controllers out,
they've got the KingKong 2 controller for the Switch.
They've got the Elves controller,
which is also for the Switch.
We're gonna look at these.
Let's open 'em up.
The major upside to a Hall Effect Sensor
is that there's no actual parts that
are touching each other,
nothing's wearing away as time goes on.
Your joysticks are gonna last a lot longer.
All right, these are small and dark,
so we can't really see them very well
on this Northern Lights desk pad, available @lttstore.com.
Only thing left to do now is get them installed.
All right, it's time for us to grab our handy dandy toolkit.
We're gonna open this thing up,
and we're gonna put these in here.
Now, we've got four screws we've gotta take out.
One, two, three, and four.
Now, I haven't done a ton of controller repairs
before on newer consoles,
I've never actually opened up a Switch before.
I've opened up the different dev kits.
I'm usually the person to do the dev kit videos
with a couple of exceptions.
So we've got our four screws out now,
so it makes me wonder what the next step is here,
it keeps trying to pair.
So I'm just gonna start shoving pieces
of plastic inside of other pieces of plastic,
and hope for the best here.
Oh, oh, and you're starting to open it up here a little bit.
Unfortunately, this has been debranded.
We're gonna have to break through the debranding,
it looks like.
Oh no.
See this?
I'm not sure if you can see that.
That's what happens when you just lose control.
Go, come on, come on.
(grunts) There we go.
And this is what the inside of it looks like.
So we've got two ribbon cables.
We've got one right here, which is easy enough to get at,
and we've got what appears to be one underneath the battery.
Okay.
We're gonna go in from this side and then push this up
to take the battery out instead of prying it off.
Yeah, the HD rumble wires is getting in the way.
So I'm gonna move that over for a second.
(battery clicks)
It works properly.
All right, so the next thing that we need to do
is actually get this plastic part here off,
because if we look at this matching up at the back of this,
we can see, hey, that's probably the joystick
that's right there.
So we've got three screws we need to remove,
we've got one here, one over here,
and one somewhere over by my finger.
We've got this ribbon cable just over here
that does connect up to this.
It does connect up to this shoulder button here.
So we don't really need to remove that, I don't think.
As long as we are very gentle with it.
Oh, hey, hey, it flipped upwards just like it's supposed to.
Now, we should be able to just get underneath it,
and pull it it up.
Oh, we did it.
Get these two Phillips head screws out.
Okay, now, we can compare them side by side.
The color of the ribbon cable's different.
Here they are on the back.
The blue is the original and the amber is the Gulikit.
Okay, so actually slipping it in the actual top
of the joystick, if I can get that in a way
that you can see it.
Yeah, it doesn't actually fit in perfectly.
It does kind of pull on that a little bit,
but you just kind of force it through ever so gently,
maybe move it back and forth a little bit.
It'll find it's way in there.
Now, the hardest part is making this ribbon cable
right here go back in it's home.
In hindsight, it's a lot easier to start
with the ribbon cable and then go from there.
All right, we've got ourselves a nice little pair
of iFixit tweezers.
Put that little black tab back down,
and then get our joystick into place.
And I really should not be putting the stress on this.
I really should have gone in here and flipped that up,
and taken this out and put this off to the side earlier.
I just didn't, 'cause I'm lazy.
Oh my God, why did I disconnect this?
This is so difficult.
There we go.
Take our screws, screw this back in there.
Before this can go back on,
we've now got our joystick screwed in.
We're going to have to put our, oh, what button is this?
I don't play the Switch enough.
Okay, it's R, it's our right button.
So this is currently being held in
by two tiny plastic tabs there.
I'm not sure if you can see that.
That looks about right now.
There we go.
That looks about the way that it was when we opened it.
Right?
Sure.
The battery.
If I had to take a guess,
it's gonna go with the wires facing upwards,
and then we can just press it down.
Oh, look at that.
I did it, I did the thing.
It's back in.
Battery's in it's housing.
We're gonna press it down,
because there's two-sided tape underneath it.
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I have the Joy-Con reassembled.
Let's give it a test though.
I do have this mismatched left Joy-Con,
which does have the original joystick still in it.
So let's give this a shot.
Immediately, I do notice a fair bit of difference.
The
Gulikit version feels a lot rounder
when you go around the outside,
you can't feel the different points to it.
Or if you can, there's only four points.
I don't know if that's necessarily better.
I think you could put these side-by-side,
and somebody wouldn't necessarily be able to tell,
unless they knew exactly what they were looking
for when they felt it.
All right, let's try it out.
Okay, so what I'm seeing here is
that it's very much calibrated over to the side.
I'm not a big fan of that.
So if I hold it right here, it's in center,
but recalibrate only if there is a problem.
There is.
Calibrate.
Move it towards the triangle and release it.
Calibration complete.
Oh hey, look at that.
I'm not a huge snob about dead zones typically,
but I do notice that when we move it just a little bit,
it does start to move.
That's good enough by me.
Maybe you will have a different experience with it.
Maybe there is some Smash Brothers players out there
who really enjoy using Joy-Cons for whatever reason
for their Smash Brothering,
and they notice a dead zone that is extremely make,
or break for them.
Okay, so on the standard joystick,
I'm still not noticing much of a dead zone.
So I don't believe there is a huge dead zone to begin with.
The major selling point, no drift.
That's the only difference I'm noticing.
That's the only difference there really needs to be,
because at the end of the day,
so many people have drift problems
that the ability to have a Joy-Con
that you know won't drift, that's worth a lot.
Here we go.
Now we can do something with this.
'Cause you can control the camera with it.
Yeah, look at that, we can get it just very slowly
moving like that.
Look at that.
Faster, slower, faster, slower.
Yeah, yeah, this is the way of water right now.
Yeah, there we go, look at that.
Overall, I think there's not really much
of a difference here.
The only exception is you're not gonna get stick drift.
That's a pretty good selling feature, I think.
If you've dealt with some small ribbon cables before,
probably not gonna be the hardest thing
in the world for you.
Overall difficulty,
I'd say it's probably about a seven outta 10.
Does cost about 30 US dollars,
whereas a Joy-Con typically costs about 40 US dollars.
So that $10 difference seems worth it to me.
Thanks for watching.
Make sure to subscribe and if you wanna see
more console mod content, let us know down below.
Bye.
Gulikit Joy-Con joystick.
(clapperboard claps) - [Crew Member] Gulikit?
It's not a Gilikit?
- It's not Gilikit.
- [Crew Member] Why would it be Gulikit?
- Why would it be Gilikit?
Do you see it wearing one of those suits
that Dennis always loves to wear when he is hiding?