- Okay, so you're looking at right here, a broken spigot.
This is our hose bib here, it's all broken.
And today we're gonna show you how
to replace this with a brand new one.
Hey everybody, Jeff here and welcome back to the channel.
If this is your first time here, welcome.
Hey, we have lots of videos here to show you
how to do plenty of repairs, so today we're going to replace
this spigot here, and so the first thing you wanna keep
in mind is right here, this is your main water cutoff.
Pretty convenient that it's right here.
What we wanna turn this off here,
to the house here, and we've already done that
so make sure it's nice and tight.
If it's over to the left like this,
you wanna make sure you go ahead and tighten it.
All the way like that.
And then, once you've done that,
you wanna go ahead and release some of that pressure
'cause you don't wanna just all of a sudden pull this off
when there's a lot of water pressure in there.
So open up this gate valve here.
And now all the water's pretty much out.
So now that the water pressure is off,
there's different tools that you can use.
You can use a monkey wrench.
I usually like to use my channel locks here
to stabilize the pipe like that.
And you can also use, I like to use
my rigid plumbing wrench, this is a really nice
'cause it's two wrenches in one.
It kind of unscrews separate from each other.
I'll put links to all these down in the description for you,
but what I like about these, these are geared
just for doing your common valves and valve changes.
So see how this one here will fit
right over that nut right there?
And then this smaller one is used when you're doing valves
like under your vanity, when you're
doing your toilet valve as well.
This will fit right around those little 3/8 inch hex nuts
that tighten up on the hose,
so this is a great tool for that.
And you can also use a monkey wrench here
to go over that part of the
spigot there.
When you go to loosen these here, you gotta make sure
that this part is being held stable here, right here
because you don't wanna just start putting
all sorts of pressure and torque on this thing
and you could tear off any soldered joints there,
you could bend the pipe, all right?
So we're just going to hold this there in place
and make sure we get good leverage on this one here.
So if you look closely here, you can see
at first glance, you might think that this is one of these
type of hose bibs that unscrews, but that's not the case.
It looks like they soldered it inside
this 3/4 inch stub out right here.
So that's not my preferred way of doing things.
In plumbing, you always want to avoid
soldering inside a pipe and rather,
you want to solder outside the pipe.
The first thing we're going to do is let the water continue
to drip out of here, let all of the water get out.
And then we're going to heat this up in this,
we're going to melt the solder that's in there
and hopefully, this will come right out.
But it won't melt the solder until
all the water is out of there.
Anytime you have water in a pipe,
you won't be able to solder.
In fact we did a video on that and I'll put a link to that
down in the description for you.
(water dripping)
All right, so you can see it's still dripping
and that's too much water flow, believe it or not,
to have inside the pipe and so, we know that this will not
be able to melt enough to separate that out.
We're going to try to shut it off at the street
because, obviously this gate valve right here,
isn't doing it's job.
And that's quite common, we see this all the time.
In fact, in this neighborhood, we did a house
a couple of years ago, another friend
that was around the corner and he had the exact same issue
where his gate valve would not close all the way
and so we swapped this out with a quarter turn ball valve.
See all these wires here that lead over here to these
transmitter or sensor things, that's how the city is able
to wirelessly obtain your meter readings.
We're just gonna try to turn this.
It's a quarter turn and that's all it should require.
Heres what we're going to do here,
we're going to heat up underneath with a torch
right here at this point and once it's sufficiently flowed
enough, we'll come over here with the channel locks
and try to twist it and wiggle it out of that pipe there.
We always wanna make sure we're
wearing gloves to protect yourself.
Use a small amount of flame just to heat
from underneath and let it rise.
Make sure your flame doesn't go near
anything where it might catch fire,
have a fire extinguisher close by.
Make sure you're wearing eye protection,
hand protection and ready to go.
Now we're gonna vacuum out any water that might be in there,
hopefully this will catch it all.
(upbeat music)
See it coming out of there?
It's sucking it all right out of there.
Look at that.
(upbeat music)
(metal squeaking)
That's what we got, okay.
That's what we have, we have something different
than what we thought we had.
We thought that the thing was going inside that pipe,
it's not, that's a half inch.
(vacuuming)
(upbeat music)
So you can see more water had collected up in the pipe
and it was dripping down a little bit
so we had to vacuum out some more, even.
There's a lot of water in the system.
You try to get it all out, you open up other faucets
and valves on other parts of the system in the house here,
but you can only do so much.
But you have to get every bit of water out of that pipe.
So a couple of things here for best practice
I wanna show you, if you look at the solder on there,
see on there how it says lead free solder?
That's the only type of solder I like to use now.
Especially doing it with health and safety
and when you're dealing with water and stuff
because you put a spigot on here,
what happens if you get a kid that starts drinking
out of this, is that going to be a problem?
You wanna make sure that that's taken out of the equation
by not adding any lead that should not be there.
And then if you look at my flux here,
I only use water soluble paste flux here.
And the reason why is because any flux that's left behind,
any residue that didn't get wiped or removed
could possibly cause corrosion later on
and it could cause your solder joint to fail.
So these are the two things
that you wanna make sure you're using.
So now I have, this is my reaming tool
and you can see how it's got these
sharp edges right here in the middle.
And we're gonna take this and put it inside
the pipe over here and we're gonna just spin it around
a few times back and forth just to make sure we have
nice smooth even inside edges here on these pipes.
Whenever you cut pipes, you're often left
with a little ridge around there and that causes turbulence
which can actually, over time, destroy your joint.
It can cause issues and cause cracks
and failures of your solder joint.
So by doing this, back and forth like that
and clearing out and making it nice and smooth,
when you run your finger in there,
you should not feel any sharp edge,
you should feel just a smooth opening.
So this is what we're gonna use.
This is going to be our new spigot here
and this is a quarter turn ball valve.
So just that's it, quarter of a turn.
That turns it on, that turns it off.
And then we're using this here,
this is what we call a half inch male adapter.
Now the reason why we're doing this is,
I don't wanna have to sweat on a new spigot
because you wanna make it easier for the next person
that has to come and change this in a few years,
to just unscrew this and pop on a new one, right?
And so, what we do here is, we will solder
this on to there, and that will be permanent.
And then anytime you have to change the spigot,
you just screw this one on and off.
Perfectly simple.
So what I'm going to do now is I'm going to clean
the inside of this, this fitting here.
Even though it's brand new, I always clean them anyway.
You want to roughen them up a little bit
and make sure they're absolutely clean of all debris.
If you come in and get a nice close look on the inside
of that thing, see how it looks
like a little bit of a satin finish?
That's how you know it's nice and clean.
And then, over here on the pipe,
even though it's got solder on it, it's not copper anymore,
I am still gonna clean that off.
(scraping)
And we're going to flux both sides of it.
Now my preference is always to have bare copper here,
but since we unsoldered the old part
and we're just going to put a new one on,
this will be okay here.
So now I'm going to flux it.
So now, as I flux the outside of this,
all you need is a thin coat, you don't need to glob it,
I think that's a mistake that a lot of people make.
I'm just going to get under it and over the top,
nice even thin coating there.
And then, and you notice I'm using gloves?
'Cause from here on in, you don't ever want to touch this
with your fingers now 'cause you'll contaminate it.
And you just do a quick brushing inside the part as well.
And this flux is a necessary step.
This flux is what allows the capillary action to take place,
so that once we put this on here and we start to heat it up
and do the soldering, it will wick
the solder into the part here.
This is our fitting and once we heat up the fitting,
and it's only the fitting that you heat up,
the capillary action will suck the solder
from this side, right into the inside of this guy
and everything will be fine.
Now if you notice too on this part,
this has a stop built into the middle of it,
so if we look real close there
on the inside of that, see that line in there?
That's useful to have because when you slide
this onto the pipe, it tells you where to stop.
So I'm going to put this on there.
(banging)
Now we're all the way in, so all we have to do now,
is heat this up and go to town with it.
Here's something I like to do
in order to get a cleaner joint.
Now remember what the purpose of the flux is?
The flux is suppose to be inside the fitting
so that it sucks the solder in there.
So the solder will not go anywhere where there isn't flux.
We know we have a little bit of residue on the outside,
so I always wipe the flux away from the outside.
See how it's coming off on the thing here?
So that way, when we go to solder,
we'll have a nice clean soldering job there.
And you'll see, hopefully, a nice thin stripe of solder
and not globs of solder like you'll see
with other people's joints.
Our rule of thumb here, since we're doing
a half inch joint here, is to curl up
the end of your solder about a half inch.
And you let it melt all the way down
til it's done at your half inch mark there.
What we'll do is we'll heat up from underneath like this
and you only put the heat on the fitting, not on the pipe.
You want the heat to be where you want the solder to go to,
so the solder will rush this way towards the heat.
It always finds the source of the heat,
that's how the capillary action works it.
The solder melts and goes to the flux and the heat,
so we're going to heat it from the bottom here
and that way the heat will rise
and heat up the whole part at once.
Okay, so I've got a short flame here,
I'll just heat up the bottom of it a little bit there.
It should actually be bluer too.
(upbeat music)
Okay, so it appears to have wicked in now.
So now what you wanna do is you don't touch it.
You leave it alone, you walk away
for a couple of minutes, let it cool down.
It'll have to cool down on its own.
And then once it cools down, we'll wipe it off some.
Just going to wipe it off a little,
make sure it's nice and clean.
Make sure there's no other leftover flux.
But you can see how reasonably clean it sucked in
and everything into the connection there.
And remember, you wanna make sure
it's completely cooled off.
If you come in here with a wet, cool rag,
you can cause cracks and all sorts of problems
with your solder joint there.
We're just going to let that finish up, cool down some more.
Now, before we screw this on, you never wanna have
just metal on metal 'cause it'll leak, it'll drip.
So we're going to seal this connection here
with this Teflon tape from Oatey, this is their Fast Tape.
This is a little thicker than the normal stuff here.
I just wanna point out for you that,
yes there is a direction that you're
suppose to go in when you do Teflon tape.
And that is, as you're looking into the hole,
you always wanna go clockwise around and I'll show you why.
So clockwise around because the item that is going on here,
which is the hose bib, it's going to come in this way
and turn like that, so you want it to be
reinforcing the direction of the tape.
Had I put the tape on counterclockwise instead,
it would unravel the tape instead.
So this is the way you want to do it.
So now we just screw this on.
I'm gonna us my Robo-Grips here to hold this nut steady
right here so that, that way the pipe stays steady
while I tighten up the spigot head here.
And you can use a wrench too, you can use a monkey wrench,
adjustable wrench, anything you want, whatever works.
But it doesn't have to be that much passed tightened,
passed hand tightened, so we'll see
if that's enough to hold it.
(gentle music)
Yeah, that looks good, it's not going anywhere right now.
Okay, so we've turned the water back on
and there seems to be no drips, which is good.
That means we did a good job sealing
right in here with our tape.
And the spigot is now on nice and tight.
And let's test the water here.
(splashing)
It's coming out pretty good with force.
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thanks for tuning in and we'll see you next time!
(upbeat music)