- [Spooky Announcer] Previously on
Annika Victoria -
- What's sewing on friends.
Today I'm gonna be showing you all
how to make a turtleneck top with long sleeves.
This video will be part one of two.
This first video is going to show you how to make it with
regular sleeves.
Then in part two, which will be the next video tutorial,
I'll show you how to make basically the same top,
but with a Bishop sleeve variation.
(Dramatic music)
What's sewing on everyone.
Welcome to part two of the turtleneck top DIYs.
Last video I showed you how to make a turtleneck top
with regular sleeves.
In this video, I'll be showing you how to make
a variation on this top.
So the same basic top, but with Bishop sleeves instead.
These are Bishop sleeves.
This isn't a turtleneck top,
but the sleeve is what we're focusing on here.
So the Bishop sleeve is fitted on the top,
but it's more full at the bottom here,
and then it's gathered into a cuff,
which is tighter fitting on the wrist or the arm,
if you do a shorter variation.
And nerdy sewing distinction,
it differs from a balloon sleeve in that a balloon sleeve
is the same with the fullness at the bottom and the cuff,
but it's puffy not fitted at the top of the sleeve.
I am very excited about the fabric that I'm gonna use
for this one.
Isn't it great?
I'm gonna be a
puffy sleeved zebra lady.
I am very excited to get started on it.
One thing that I do need to do before I start,
is to compare the relative stretch of this fabric,
and the one that I used for the previous tutorial,
the one I'm basing my patent off,
which is this floral one.
This is kind of an aside,
but I think it's important to learn about
the differences between stretch fabrics,
and how to calculate that when working with stretch fabrics.
So I wanna show you what I do.
So I cut out two squares four inch by four inch
of both of the fabrics.
And what I am going to do is stretch them out
and compare their relative stretch.
So for each fabric I put one thumb down on my starting line,
and then I pull the other edge as far as I can,
like with all my strength.
So this one stretches out to 6.5 inches,
but the floral one is stretchier and it goes to 7.5.
So the floral fabric is stretchier than
the zebra print one.
This is like 1.15 times stretchier than this.
This means that I probably shouldn't use
the exact same pattern as I did for this top,
because otherwise it will be too small for me.
Okay. Sidebar.
Why is there no standardized universal like stretch factor
for all stretchy fabrics?
Like is there? I don't think there is.
I know that individual pattern companies or fabric companies
will have their own in house stretch factor,
but there's no like standardized universal one
that we can all use.
So that like when you go into a fabric store,
and you're looking for a particular,
maybe like you've got a pattern that says
please use a stretchy fabric of... 1.1.
And then you can go to the fabric section and you're like,
yes, this has a stretch factor of 1.1.
It's gonna be perfect.
And my top won't be too small or too big.
(sighs)
It's a pet peeve of mine.
There really should be something like that.
Can one of you please invent it.
It would make life so much more easier,
but for now I resort to this crude method.
So this is the pattern that I made up last time.
And if we use this with the zebra print fabric,
it's gonna end up a little bit too tight,
or a little bit too small.
Because these two fabrics
don't differ too vastly in stretchiness.
I could just do a real cowgirl method (chuckles)
and just make the pattern a little bit wider.
Just increase the seam allowance at all of the side bits.
Now back to how we actually make the Bishop sleeve.
With the standard sleeve piece,
you're gonna wanna create that first,
even if you're doing the Bishop sleeve.
We're gonna be doing a lot of tracing and drawing here.
So first retrace your sleeve.
So I'm just gonna go around all the edges,
making an exact copy of the sleeve,
and then we're gonna cut out that sleeve copy.
Okay. So to make our Bishop sleeve with the copied sleeve,
I'm gonna draw up five different lines
to dissect this into six pieces.
Okay, so now we have these segments.
We're going to use our scissors
and cut up to almost the very top.
We wanna leave it attached.
So don't cut the piece off entirely.
Maybe up to like half an inch away from the edge.
Okay. Now that I have this,
I'm going to get this fresh bit of paper and lay it on top.
I'm gonna lay it down so that the center top part
is right in the middle of the bit of paper,
that I'm then going to tape down
to the bit of paper behind it.
Oh my God. Where is the end of this tape?
So now we're going to spread these pieces out.
Basically the further that you spread them,
the wider that the sleeve is,
the more dramatic your Bishop sleeve will be.
I just generally, when I make these,
the size of the butcher's paper is my limit,
but if I want them to be even more dramatic,
I'll add or like tape extra butcher's paper on either side
and make them flare out even more.
But basically I'm gonna make them flare out
to this edge here.
And then I'm gonna tape this edge slice down in place.
And then just kind of arrange the ones in the middle.
You might accidentally tear it like I did there, whoops,
tape that back together,
just kind of spread all the other pieces out evenly,
something like that, and then tape them all down.
Okay. Now I'm going to draw around the outer most edges.
And once I've drawn around it, I cut it out.
And there we have it.
There's the Bishop sleep pattern.
You can put it down on top of another piece of paper
and trace it out again so you can get a nice sleeve
without all this janky stuff on the top,
but I can't be bothered.
(chuckles)
So this is my final Bishop sleeve pattern,
and we've got the front and the back
just like the other sleeve.
Lovely Luciano helped me cut out my fabric
from the pattern pieces,
ensuring that the direction of the stretch of the fabric,
matched the arrows that I drew onto the pattern pieces.
The sewing of the top is gonna be exactly the same
as the previous video up until we start working
on the sleeves in detail.
So I'll just go over the first part of sewing this
really quickly cause it's the same as part one.
And if you need the steps in more detail,
make sure to just refer to part one.
So first I sewed the shoulders,
and then I tried it on for size.
Okay.
Just giving this a little try-on.
So it's ended up a bit bigger than I was expecting.
Definitely too wide.
I like made it a size or two too big for me.
That's okay. I'm gonna cut it down a bit. (sighs)
But this is why we need a universal stretch factor,
because then this wouldn't happen.
(sighs loudly)
I cut it down a little bit,
so that it was the right size for me,
and I tried it on again.
Much better.
Then I attached the top of the sleeves to the body,
and flipped it right sides together,
and sewed down the arms and the sides.
Then I made my turtleneck piece and attached it.
And this is how it's turned out so far.
So right now,
I've got some amazing flared seventies sleeves going on.
Now to turn into Bishop sleeves,
we're just gonna get a cuff
and gather all this excess fabric here
into a cuff at the wrist.
So let's do that.
So I'm going to make a cuff out of this scrap fabric here.
So to do that first I measure my wrist.
(chuckles) It's hard to do it one handed.
Which is six inches,
So then plus seam allowance that would be six inches,
six and three eighths of an inch, inches.
This is the problem with using inches,
I don't know how to use them. (laughs)
And I'm gonna cut that out from the scrap fabric piece here.
But because it's stretchy,
and I want it to fit tightly on my wrist,
I'm gonna take that measurement of the width
back down to just six inches.
And then I'm basically gonna estimate
what I want my sleeve cuff height to be.
I want mine to be about one and a half inches.
So plus seam allowance,
I'm going to cut out
two rectangles
from the stretchy fabric
that are each six inches by four inches.
Okay, and here are my two rectangles
that will make up the cuffs of my sleeve.
So the cuff pieces get sewn on much like
the turtleneck piece does.
But before we do that, we need to gather the sleeve.
As you can see that is a fair bit wider than that.
So we need to just bring the circumference of the sleeve
down a little bit by gathering.
To gather my sleeves,
I'm going to replace this walking foot here
with my gathering foot.
But if you don't have a gathering foot,
you can just gather the normal method.
And I'll pop a link for that in the description.
Okay. So here's my gathering foot, AKA the ruffler.
And if you wanna specifically know how it works,
I have a video about it.
But just quickly,
I'm going to set my ruffler to a pleat every stitch.
That's number one.
I'm going to lengthen the stitch right up to five.
Okay. Time to gather the sleeve all up.
(upbeat music)
Okay. That should be gathered enough
for the cuff to stretch around. Fingers crossed.
If it isn't, I'll go around it again
and gather it up even more.
So this is the sleeve all gathered up,
and now we're going to attach the cuffs.
So with the cuff I'm going to fold it in half like that.
Sew down this edge.
And now I'm gonna do the same thing as
what I did with the neck, the turtleneck piece.
I'm going to fold it in half like this,
and I'm going to sew around that top edge
with a zigzag stitch.
(upbeat music)
Okay. Moment of truth.
So I'm gonna make sure that I can actually
stretch this cuff to at least the same height.
No. Okay. I can't.
All right.
So we need to gather up the sleeve just a little bit more
so that when I stretch this,
it reaches approximately the same height
as the gathered sleeve.
Take two. (chuckles)
So here's my gathered cuff and it is now
pretty much gathered enough.
So attaching this to this is basically going to be
the same way that we did the neck, the turtleneck piece.
I'm going to quarter both of these with pins.
(upbeat music)
And then ease this on so that the seams are matching up
And I'm gonna pin them together at the seam there.
And then I'm going to stretch the cuff so that
the next pin matches up with the next pin on the sleeve,
and pin those together.
And so on, matching up each pin with each other,
and pinning them in place.
Now this might seem like a big old mess.
So what you kind of need to do,
the sleeve will kind of be bulging out in a lot of places.
You might actually have to gather it a little bit more
with your fingers in between each pin
so that it's laying kind of flat.
Pin it around the sleeve quite a few times.
This will really help when you're sewing it.
(upbeat music)
Now I tend to prefer to sew this part
by sewing on the inside of the sleeve,
just because you can make sure that you're catching
all of the gathers underneath the needle.
So what I do is I open up the sleeve like this
get my foot in under there,
and then using a zigzag stitch,
I start stitching it three eighths of an inch
seam allowance.
Okay. I really should move the pins to the inside
if I'm gonna do that.
(jazz music)
And then, (hums) flip it around,
and then we can remove some of the gathering stitches there
that escaped the seam allowance.
Whoopsy.
I'll just give it a bit of an iron,
but it's done and it looks beautiful.
So time to try it on and show you what it looks like.
(upbeat 70s music)
I have made the seventies does forties top of my dreams.
I have gone full Lauren Bacall and it's in zebra print.
Which not only looks fantastic,
but it's also the symbol for rare disease,
which not to brag, but I do have a few of those.
(laughs)
But seriously this is pretty much the best thing
I've ever created.
And I've now completed my transformation into zebra lady.
Like seriously, I have a zebra coat,
which I just got from Depop for 20 bucks.
And zebra belt also got from Depop for $8.
So I guess all I need now is some zebra pants.
That's it from me. Stay crafty.
And I'll see y'all next time.
- Hey there I'm Mike.
You may have noticed
I joined the channel recently
as a video editor and creative consultant.
You may have also noticed
that there's been more frequent uploads
on the channel recently.
So Annika would like to recruit me
to the channel full time
so I can help keep the channel running
while she returns to University.
So if you can support us on Patreon,
even just for $1 a month,
this is the best time to do it,
and we both really appreciate it.