In this video I'm going to show you how quickly and easily two people can install AtticFoil
inside a truss-built attic using the 26" wide product.
Our most popular products are either the 48" or the 26" width products.
The 48" product is great because you can run it horizontally in a typical stick-built attic;
you can cover a lot of area fast by pulling a long piece.
However in a typical truss built attic, it can be a little intimidating because of all
the supports coming down, it looks like a giant spiderweb inside the attic.
So it's best to run the foil VERTICALLY (up and down) between the trusses.
Our 26" product is perfect for the rafters that are typically 24" on center.
There is enough material that you can completely cover each rafter on either side with plenty
of material to staple to.
Installing the 26" product inside a truss built attic can go very quickly.
In fact, the guys in this video installed about 2,000 sq ft of material in about 2 hours
because they followed the basic rules of installing radiant barrier.
That is: cover as much area as possible and leave gaps at the top and bottom for air to
flow freely through the attic.
Finally, you'll notice it doesn't have to be perfect or pretty to work effectively.
It's ok if it has got some wrinkles or gaps or cracks - you'll notice that they just staple
around the jack supports coming up and leave little flaps.
You can spend 2 to 3 times as long and trim around every one (it will make it LOOK a little
prettier) but it doesn't change the effectiveness one bit.
The trick to doing a fast and easy install using the 26" product on the truss built attic
is to pre-measure and pre-cut as many pieces as possible.
What you want to do is measure the distance from the bottom of the slope down to the soffit
area (near the top plate of the wall) all the way up to the ridge.
Take this distance and subtract about 5 to 10 inches.
This is the length of product you are going to need to cover EACH rafter bay, and leave
a few inches gap at the top and the bottom for proper ventilation.
Cut a bunch in the garage - just roll them out and make a big stack and then take that
stack of foil up in to the attic and get started.
With 2 people working, installing AtticFoil should go pretty easy.
The concept is pretty simple: one person is working in the top two-thirds of the attic
and you have another person down in the lower third working the bottom section (kind of
the harder-to-reach area).
You want to start stapling at the top, leave a few inch gap near the ridge, staple down
the rafters and then hand the foil off to the person working in the bottom third.
If the person in the bottom pulls the foil tight, it makes it look a little cleaner - it
takes out some of the wrinkles and it makes it easier to line up on the rafters.
When you get done with one section, just simply move to the next rafter and keep going until
you're done.
AtticFoil is also tear-proof; it is virtually impossible to tear.
So, if you staple it up and then you realize you need to move the foil a little bit, just
pull the foil out (the staple will come with the foil), move the foil and re-staple.
One thing to point out about truss attics is that they tend to be either medium or low-pitch
attics, which means down in the lower part (near the soffit area) it can be really tight
or sometimes almost impossible to get the foil out all the way to the top plate.
You have a couple of different options on how to handle this.
One, instead of starting a few inches from the top plate of the wall, you can go up a
foot or two.
Remember: radiant barrier is a cumulative effect, so the more you get, the better.
However a small gap at the bottom probably won't make a huge difference.The second option
is to do the same method and when you get down to the bottom, staple as far as you can
and you'll have a little flap, maybe a foot or two down at the bottom.
Take that flap and just push it out over the top plate (use a broom handle or a stick or
some type of poker) and just push it out and just lay on top of the insulation - it will
work fine.
Really, all you're trying to do is get a piece of foil between that hot roof and the cool
insulation.
Truss built attic typically also have gable ends.
Gable ends are the flat ends of your attic; usually you have a couple of slopes and then
you have the flat ends - those are the gable ends.
If the gable ends catch direct sun, you need to install AtticFoil on the inside of the
attic on the back side of those gable ends.
Basically the gable end is just part of the roof, in a vertical format.
It's really simple: you're going to run the foil either horizontally across the studs,
or up and down (vertically) just like you did in the trusses.
Leave a couple inch gap at the top and the bottom, that way air can flow between the
foil and the gable wall.
You want to install the foil with gaps at the top and the bottom.
You want air to flow freely through the attic as though the AtticFoil really isn't even
there.
What's going to happen is that hot air is going to pool in the top of the attic and
then it's going to go out either through ridge vents, wind turbines, static vents, electric
fans, gable vents, whatever type of exhaust vents you've got - you want to give it a path
for that air to find its way out.
If you do have any holes in the attic as far as wind turbines or something like that, you
want to cut a hole in the foil directly below any vent in the roof.
You want the air to just flow freely through the attic; like I said: as though the foil
is not even there.
If you've got a gable vent, on the end or on a gable wall, run the foil up and do not
cover the gable vent.
That's about everything you need to know to install 26" wide AtticFoil inside your attic.
Simple staple it up, leaving gaps at the top and the bottom, so the air can flow freely
through your attic.
Once you staple up AtticFoil, your home will be instantly more comfortable and energy efficient.
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