Here is part 2 of my climbing session with Paul Robinson.
He came up with a training plan for me. That is a lot more advanced than the hangboard
workout I did myself.
Enjoy!
We will do a small workout that you can add into a climbing session. So like, you know, that was
a nice climbing session. Now you are like, okay, I am feeling tired; I feel like I am digressing
on the climbs, and I am gonna do a little bit of training now to finish my session.
That's usually what I do. I go climb for two hours on the boulders and then the last
like 45 minutes to an hour, I will kind of come up to an area like this at my gym and
I will just do workouts,
different interesting workouts that I feel benefit me for climbing.
I would say if you are climbing 3~4 days a week, only do this 1~2 times max, okay?
We don't want to create any injuries.
What I always do is I will pick a number of pull-ups that I want to do, so usually like
what I will do is at the end of a workout, I will do 10 sets of 10 pull-ups to get to
100, okay?
So with you, how about 3 pull-ups?
How does 3 pull-ups? So you can do that a couple times?
Yes. Okay.
Let's have you grab this hold, and let's have you do 3 pull-ups.
Okay, perfect. And what I like to do with the pull-ups is I like to switch it up. You
know, every gym is different. Every hangboard is a little bit different. So if you are at
home or you are at the climbing gym, it doesn't really matter, you know.
Do you first 3 sets of pull-ups on this one. Do your second 3 on this jug.
Do your next set on these crimps like do your next set on the slopers. It doesn't matter.
You are just trying to do your set.
One-arm hangs are really good, too.
Can you hang from this with one arm?
One, two, three, four, five, perfect.
Once you can hang that for 7~10 seconds, then it's too easy, okay?
That was about 5, which is perfect.
4~5 seconds is the ideal amount you want to hold.
Once you can hang it for 5 seconds,
grab a 5-lb weight.
Same thing, hang with the 5-lb in your other hand, and then as soon as you get to like
15 lbs, then you need to find a new hold
cause then this is too easy. So then you will come to this one, and you will do 0 lb. Then
you will do 5, and you will do 10, and you will do 15, and then you will say: "Okay, I need
to find a new hold."
One set, though, would be 5 seconds with the left, and then 5 seconds with the right.
Can you hang from this?
Yes. Okay.
So what we are going to do now is 5-second hang, 5-second rest, 5-second hang, 5-second
rest. We are going to do that 5 times. Okay?
So, hang. OK, down. Hang; down; hang.
So how did that feel?
That felt tough.
Good.
Perfect.
This one right here is for power, and so what we are going to do is you are going to hang,
and what you are going to do is you are going to do like this, and you are going to go as
far as you can. Okay?
And you just touch.
You know, you can have whomever like see exactly where you get to and then you can try each
time you get a little bit higher.
With this one, you are going to do one side with the right, and then one side with the
left.
Okay? Let's see where you can get to.
Good, so you got to the red 80.
You got to the blue one right below 80.
That's pretty even.
That's great.
It's important to kinda have that campus strength and just being able to go as far as you can
and push something down really far.
One that I really like to do- you can start on the bottom one and then what you do is
you go up 1, and then back down, up 2, and then back down, up 3, and then back down,
up 4, and then back down.
Okay? And you just go as high as you possibly can, and then you do the same thing with the
right.
Boom, boom, boom, boom.
Okay?
No, oh yeah, there you go.
Good.
Come on, to the third one.
Yes!
Yeah and always start match like this.
That time you started like this, but always start match.
Good.
Come on.
Good.
Come on.
Just slap for it.
Yes.
Definitely don't do the smaller rungs. When I campus, I still only use the big ones.
I like to use the big ones because they are more comfortable and it allows you to kinda like
pull through them a lot more.
This one will be skip one, pull through to the next one.
So skip one, and then pull through and match.
Okay?
Very simple.
Skip one and then go to the next one.
So it's not skip one, skip one.
Basically what it does is when you go one, two, three, like that, now it's increasing that
gap but not making it double the distance.
You are just going skip one and then next hold.
Okay?
So try that.
Good and then next one.
Good.
Then match. Good.
Always match the last one.
I like that.
It's a nice little workout.
Also I don't recommend, and you probably have seen it in videos. I don't recommend this.
Okay?
It's really demanding on your tendons.
Okay?
And when we are climbing, we just climb for two hours.
We never did this.
Not even once.
I think it's too demanding on your tendons and it's not applicable to what you are going
to see inside, outside, whatever.
Okay?
So that is a very easy way to injure yourself.
This is a very advanced one, but a good one to know about for the future.
You start one hand on one side and the other hand on the other side like this.
Okay?
And you go like this, and you cross all the way to the other side and you try to go
all the way to the top.
Okay?
But just you know, for the future, when campusing starts to get too easy, and then you can implement
this into the training, but that's really nice, too because that's isolation strength,
you know, getting into a position and being able to move to a new position without your
body spinning out of control
even though you don't have feet to help you. Okay?
That's very core intensive, very shoulder intensive, very finger intensive.
So, good advance one.
So, let's say, the ab roller is a workout.
Sit-up is also a workout.
Push-up is also a workout.
And then when you come in for a day after a day of climbing, just choose 5 whatever
the ones you want to do, doesn't matter.
And then each time you come, you can choose different 5, so it doesn't get too boring.
Within a month, some of these workouts that I give you now are going to start to feel
a little too easy, so what I like about all these workout that I've been giving you
is that they can easily be made harder.
So for instance, this skip one can turn into skip two, pull through the next one.
Okay?
So why don't we do one rotation, okay?
Let's pick 5, and then in between, you know, 15~20 seconds totally fine.
You want to succeed at what your next thing is, so rest long enough that you are pretty
sure that you will get through the exercises.
Okay?
Good.
Five.
Good.
Two, one.
Down.
Nice job!
And so do that rotation three times, and in between your rotations, rest 5 minutes.
Appreciate you stopping by. Of course! It was awesome I am glad we got to work this
out and you know next time I am here, hopefully we can climb again.
Thank you, everyone.
Thanks for watching.
I was actually a bit nervous prior to meeting up with Paul, but I am really impressed with
how down to earth and how charming Paul was.
Just in case you don't know yet, Paul actually has a YouTube channel himself.
There are videos about training, what life is like for a professional climber, and a
lot of great videos, so make sure to check them out if you haven't.
And as always, make sure to like and subscribe.
See you in the next video.