in this video presentation we're going to make off a piece of SY flex SY cable we're going to
be making off three core 2.5 using a 20S gland pack i'm going to have the camera in really nice
and close when i made this off i've made a video previously on how to terminate or make off SY flex
but back in those days the camera work wasn't as good as maybe as it could be now maybe the
sound quality wasn't as good there was a first of all let's look at the gland pack we've got a CTX
20S 20 the size of the hole that you will need to knock into your enclosure
and S saying the body of it is small why did i select that one when we turn over we look here
first column here is the conductor sizes and i told you that ours were 2.5 and across the top
the number of conductors so we've got three cores so 2.5 3 core says that that is a 20S required to
terminate it hence this is the gland pack i've selected so we're going to use this pack and
we're going to terminate this cable which is three core and the subtle difference now between video
one and video two is that the cores are actually identified brown blue and green and yellow the
previous video i did we had two black conductors labeled one and two and we could identify one as
neutral and one as line and a green and yellow conductor so there's a subtle difference on that
hopefully we'll get some better camera work and some better audio and you'll see me
how to terminate SY cable or SY flex whichever you call it so we're going to terminate our SY flex as
if it's going into our consumer unit okay coming into the bottom in order that we can judge the
required length the jobs that are in the workshop will go from a consumer unit generally to a 16
amp industrial socket outlet so we'll start the consumer unit and we tend to work our way around
it's about how we're going to fit the gland on here and then obviously how we're going to attach
it to the enclosure it's subtly different when we're going into the plastic 16 amp socket but
we generally start the consumer unit and work our way down once we've had a go at making one SY flex
end off we can apply the knowledge in order to get the other end so with that in mind i'm going to
need to work out my length and my conductor so i like it to be as long as the enclosure again
so i've got it so it comes back round so that would be a good starting point about that length
however what generally happens is my students start making the end off and they haven't inserted
things like the shroud okay so we're going to start off with the shroud so gland pack brand new
generally we give our students a brand new gland pack to start with taking our knife away from your
thumb towards your chum thanks Chris taking out our items let's look at those items that we're
getting our gland pack so we get two of everything we get two shrouds so these here being our shrouds
we get two shrouds two earthing rings often called on site so i take a lot of stick for this often
called on-site uh banjos okay there are earthing rings for the questions on the efixx apprentice
hub they're earthing rings when you're looking at the questions that city and guilds and EAL layout
so they're earthing rings and then we've got the actual glands themselves look very similar
to steel or armoured so if you're picking them up at college out of a box just check that they look
appropriately so we've got a nut we've got 20 ml lock nut in this case it's brass we've got two
brass rings with each of them and then obviously we've got the actual body itself okay and that
body has a split down it okay so make sure you've got that one often my students will get confused
and they will bring out a steel or armoured one generally we do steel wire armour before we do SY
flex so we've got a set of two of those we're going to be making one off so i can get rid of
those to one side and we've got left as if we're making off just the one end shroud gland body
20 mil nut two um what we're going to call those let's call those two washers brass washers and our
earthing ring we're going to trap our actual braid in between those and we'll see that during the
process so shroud's got to go on first so we're going to need to take the nip off the end of the
actual shroud we do that by inserting it into here first and pulling nice and hard and maybe
you can see the area here where the colour changes so we've got a little color change between the two
that's the part of which i'm going to nip it off with my knife so i'm going to take that i've got
a wooden board so i'm just going to put it down like so make a little mark against it
i'm going to take that end off just like so okay hopefully it's quite firm when it goes on so
hopefully it's quite tricky to get it on so see already it doesn't flop or go down so it's got a
nice look i can push against it so there's some resistance there so that can go on my students
will say to me it's not a problem Gaz if i forget the first one because i can bring it on from the
other end so you could have passed it all the way down the other end i always say to them
if the circuit was of a reasonable length and maybe fixed to the structure of the building
could you obviously run the shroud up it no you couldn't you'd end up having to take the actual
gland off so shroud goes on okay we're going to go for our length so we're approximately twice
the length of the consumer unit and i'm going to take it to about there we're going to need
this a little bit we're going to need the glang body to go on so let's get that on next so gland
body goes on like so sometimes you have to loosen off that that there puts a little um rubber seal
in there to actually lock off against the actual SY flex in order to have a moisture barrier so
just make sure that that's just backed off slightly slides on nice and easily so
cable length i'm gonna go for there okay for this one and now i'm gonna go around
fairly firmly with my knife so i'm in a good position so i take my knife fairly firmly round
like so
all the way around okay and then i've got to see if i can get this off now sometimes you can
actually physically pull that off you can actually pull and go so as i go i'm just twisting it so as
i'm pulling i'm just giving it a little twist a little twist as i go so it's coming off just a
little twist pull with a twist pull with a twisted pull twist twist twist twist and we're finding
we're working off the PVC so the PVC has gone away almost looks like a snakes skin you can actually
see the imprint of the braiding in there the steel braiding okay so we can put that to one side
what we've got now is we've got to actually bulge this out okay in order to get about
that much braiding in order that we can earth the braiding we'll talk in the classroom that we only
need to earth it from one end it may be worth it inadvertently from both but you definitely
only have to earth it from one end but you cannot use it as a circuit protective conductor
it is CPC inside the cable itself okay and we have to earth the braiding but
we couldn't use the braiding as a separate CPC if there wasn't one in the actual cable itself
so your choice now you're going to need one of your rings your brass rings to go on you can put
it on now if you want so we'll slide that on next to sit in like so and now what we've got to do
is get our braiding to sit around here before we insert our second ring to squash the two together
so what i end up doing is i bubble this down so i take it and i just bubble it down
so i bring that bubble all the way down to on about what we're talking about three or four
centimetres from the end that's the part with a knife three or four centimetres and i'm going
to lose this section here now this with the side cutters i got can be quite tricky to do
so you need to get your side cutters in i don't like these ones i want to change them
reason being there's a little hole inside there so they're not the greatest side cuts in the world
let's change them over for a conventional set with no splitting holes
let's see if we can just break through the braiding doesn't matter if it's straight
just got to get through it all the way around there's probably other techniques to doing this
remember if you've got your own technique feel free to leave a positive comment below
so we've got that much off at the moment okay if the braiding gone away better side cutters folks
my students they all love the Wiha ones but they're not always the best for things like this
so we've got three or four centimetres there of the actual braiding itself it's still too
long okay and what we're going to need to do is open that out we need to take maybe a bradawl
and just run that through there we could take a terminal screwdriver in order to open it up
or we could potentially use something like a scriber so i'm going to use my actual bradawl
so just going to pull through pull through
try not to do too many at once that's the biggest mistake people try and do too many
so i'm just opening these out and this is down one side so i'm just splitting those through
like so until i'm down to the base so i've actually separated one side okay from the
other side okay and we've got that split now i'm going to do the same here on the other side
just going to pull these ones out so we've got no tangling as we go through so there we go so
what we're going to try and do is keep a 50 50 split so i want 50 one side and 50 the other
so maybe a few more just to detangle just there okay so we've got 50 one side
and 50 percent the other side okay so um now maybe i put a few more round actually there's
a couple there that could be benefit from being on the other side okay so i've got approximately
50 50 split okay so we're going to take those some people at this stage do the quarter of a
turn at this point so they bring it round but we're just gonna gonna twist these up to start
with some people do a quarter of a turn i think i've done a quarter of a turn previously okay so
we're gonna make those tightly twisted together and we want them opposite sides 180 degrees apart
so i've got one each side so i've got to set this side and a set that side just go again
a little bit tighter always more difficult for me because obviously i'm trying to stay
out of the way of the camera so there we go so we've got two side splits
one so if you look there we're trying to be 180 degrees apart okay so let's see if we can now
perhaps just trim them back a little bit i'm going to trim them again in a minute
and we've now got to line up our actual gland itself so we can see at 180 degrees on our
gland we've also got two holes or slices down the actual gland through the threads
and we need to bring it up to where we are within the actual gland itself so in like so
okay so we're in that position there now okay so we're nearly there not much more to do really
for this demonstration i think i did a slightly longer one before now what we're going to do is
we're actually going to put the other washer on and then this the actual nut will go that way
round to tighten so actually we want to bring our braiding around the same way so that would pull
through that way and that would go that way in other words the way the nut goes on and goes round
is the same in which we're going to follow around this braiding that we're trying to
earth against this body itself you're going to bring it round so it's almost backs up to
where it was before so this one's coming around here you want this other one to come in almost
meet but not quite don't don't get it too too uh precisely right behind it so fairly close to it
okay like so and then we'll bring this one round and we back it to where approximately
the other one is so what i recommend now you do is just check that these are nice and tight
so just tighten those back off again so that's nice and tight and we're tightening that yep
i'm gonna tight there so we're gonna bring that back round onto the back of this one
and this one back round onto the back just here okay so we've got those into position let's just
check it's all the way in so i apologize about that yeah okay so we're in those positions there
and there it's best to spend a little bit of time now just making sure this lays well within here
okay so put that one around there and there hold them just for a second into position like so
and we'll drop the other washer on
so we can sort of hold it semi into position so all the way up you can now see that we've
got to just work on trying to get these so they stay within the two rings now like so
what you end up doing is using a screwdriver or the back of your knife at some point in order
to hold those into position this stage here you may or may not want to strip off the conductors
okay i tend to leave it for a slightly later part of it let's introduce the consumer unit okay so on
the bottom of there it's already been drilled out appropriately and we've even got the position for
our earthing ring to go on okay as well hopefully that's in the right position sometimes people
remove all the paint here and i totally agree with that we stopped doing it a few years ago taking
off all the paint on here um so we've left it like this so we're relying actually on the connection
of the bolt and the nut etcetera so let's bring that one around let's push that on next okay like
so and we're going to keep them up and locked into position like that okay and then we can pop
into our actual consumer unit like so and we can take our nuts and go on the inside
okay at the moment they're sort of pulling out that's not a problem one goes on nut
okay and this will be mounted obviously on the wall okay and we're going to need
to make sure that we line up here i generally put a bolt through here
at this stage i put a bolt in here to stop it moving because it can sometimes move left or right
so in order that we can get it in and correct obviously we're doing it at the moment with our
fingers this is where the back of a knife comes in handy in order to push that back into here
so i've pushed that back into position okay whether i'll be on that side obviously you
can't turn it around in the real world okay on that side so i'm going to need to use my knife
or my screwdriver just to make sure that they stay in i'll push those in with my screwdriver
tighten it up we've got some around the back as well here so i'll just show you around here
so you've got some that have come out of there as well so you've got to make
sure that you get those in so loosen it back off again get in between our two
washers hold them into place tighten it up with your fingers
and now i have a little feel round i can't feel any whiskers at all obviously in the real world
you can just spin it round okay so we've started to show that there's no whiskers now poking out
this gives you the option now so with my not back of my knife i can just push those ones back in
whichever side they were just push those back into position take my screwdriver and just poke
those back in once i'm happy with them being in position obviously make sure in this case
earthing ring is in position and then we can lock these off so we can actually tighten those off
so we've got a 20 mil locking spanner lock nut spanner in here okay and they're adjustable or
a pair of grips here so i'll get that and we'll lock that off next but first and foremost we've
made sure none of these whiskers are poking out the side and we did that by using the knife or
terminal screwdriver in order to get them in okay so we'll lock that off next so we've got um
locknut spanners here at the college we've got 20 and 25 okay so we can use those if we want
to so that can go on and go on to our actual nut inside here and then we've got the ability to take
adjustable or a pair of grips in order that we can lock it off okay so we can tighten between the two
so we can make sure that's super tight obviously mounted on a surface so you won't be pulling it
against the bench in order to make sure that's super tight so we need to make sure that our
earthing rings in line with our hole maybe put a bolt in it and then we make sure this is super
tight so we tighten between here and here when it is tight we check that none of the actual
braidings are poking out and then obviously we're just ready to terminate our end insert
a fly lead etc so we can take a fly lead between the two we'll jump across to a job that's already
been terminated and look at how they've done the rest of it but remember the big difference with
this cable i'll just show you the conductors that we've moved over to in the workshop actually has
our conductors identified by colour so we're okay with those so we've actually got them identified
as brown currently for line blue for neutral and green and yellow for CPC the job i'm going to show
you next may not might be all in black or it might be in colour it depends on which learner's job
that we jump into next super important we get it tight because the braiding will be earth through
this earthing ring to the earth bar okay our CPC will run through separately through our cable
the shroud will be put on afterwards we can lock it off here okay this is generally locked off
either with fingers or just gently with a pair of grips or an adjustable spanner not super tight it
ruins the seal in here if you try and wrench it up so firmly into position then our shroud can go on
obviously for a finished look let's cut away to one of my students jobs and see
what they've got up to so we jumped into one of my students jobs and this was the original
two black conductor so this was black and this was black and they've oversleeved it in blue and
brown to identify as line and neutral they are identified with numbers one and two it doesn't
matter which one you choose for which so they've got the sleeve on the cable i've just shown you
just arrived at college and before i leave i was trying to just show my students that actually
they may find that the cable moving forward is brown blue and green and yellow
so we've got both options here previous video presentation talked about them being both black
and some of my testing videos are as well that are on the industrial plug and socket but the
cable i've just shown you is identified by colour so here we've got an internal lock nut super tight
just showed you that this is the bolt i haven't shown you coming through from the underside this
comes through to strap against the actual earthing ring this separate fly lead comes up to the earth
bar so this one takes the CPC straight down and through this bolt connects onto the gland
body below and that gland body below like so if i just drop the camera so that goes on to the gland
body just there so that gland body just there is obviously connected to the earth bar from above so
that gland body is now earthed the separate CPC from the conductor comes through here and goes
out and down we've got way one way one and way one for the actual outgoing circuit the student's got
an industrial socket so of course there's RCD protection we preferred it to be an RCBO but
of course cost at college we haven't got one it's also a 16 amp socket down there so the fuse here
also has to be 16 amp something my students have done and hopefully this video has been some help
you