Hello everybody! Welcome to another video
In this video we'll be talking about the Hot Air Station
Hello everyone, welcome once again, I'm Edgar
Thank you very much for joining us in this new video of
this section that we called "The quarantine season", where we are
uploading new content
we're trying to make a course where we'll be setting some bases for people who just started on this job
remember, we're just starting with the basic, eventually we're gonna raise the difficulty
for now, we'll be talking about tools, what kind of tools do we need, how to calibrate them and things like that
so, later, we'll be introducing the Reballing lesson, and after that, we'll be learning about diagnoses
where we'll begin on fixing motherboards, ok?
So, with that said
on previous lessons, we've learned how to use the multimeter,
we've already seen the measurements, about the power supplies
Today, we'll be learning about this tool that it's very important in our job, I'm talking about the
Hot air station
Here's we have to talk about something very important, the pros and cons
I'm not telling you that you need to buy the most expensive hot air station, like QUICK for example
by only starting, ok?
You can begin with any hot air station
There are some differences, for example
you can find some that keeps the flow of heat constantly all the time
these do not generate peaks that suddenly changes
the temperature, like rising the heat, so you don't know what temperature you're using
is also affected by such things as the mouthpiece size
in this case, the size of the mouthpiece that we're using
Personally, I wouldn't tell you "You must buy this hot air station"
but, if you can afford it, you could buy a QUICK hot air station
it's enough with it
I've using QUICK like 4 or 5 years
and by the moment, this is the hot air station that many people use, very stable, but
I don't mean that's the only choice
on my Youtube Channel on previous videos I've had reviewed some hot air stations
some of them cheap, like 40 bucks, and they can do the job right
The most important thing you have do with the hot air station is
calibrate it, you learn, you must practice a lot with the air gun, BEFORE working on client's phones
On this lesson we'll be not do reballing or remove components
well, yes, we will remove components, but we'll not learn about the techniques to do it
Because that's something that we'll see on the Reballing lesson, and there I'll be talking again a bit more about the hot air station
What I want to show you today, are some tips
that will help you if you just started on removing components and don't damage the mothermoards
So, do we have here this QUICK 861DW
so, let's turn it on
what I always do when I'm teaching on some beginners course of reballing
remember, this is not a reballing lesson, that's something we'll see later, what I want to do is
give you some tips
I'm not showing you how to calibrate it neither, cause not everybody have this hot air station, so
so let's do it as if none of you have a QUICK and you don't know how to calibrate it
First of all, we need the temperature #1
the temperature #1 will be to remove resins and stuff like that
that you can remove easily
for example, what do I mean with remove resin?
The resin is this over here
the resin is that black stuff over here
this thing over here we'll call it resin, there are 2 kinds of resin
this is a soft one, you can remove it easily
and this other one that you can find around the Wi-Fi
this black stuff over here, this one it's a bit harder to remove
so
the first temperature that I recommend to remove resin it's the one I call "Temperature #1"
That temperature it's about 170 heat and 60 air flow
So, what you have to do with this temperature
remove the resin without problems
it's a temperature that will not get loosen the circuits, only for remove the resin
this is the first thing you need to know when reballing
remove resin, get better accuracy with the air gun
other important thing, check how close I do have the air gun with the motherboard
it must be very, very close
this is pretty much the distance that you'll have to use
So, the first temperature is for resin removal, or harder resin, but, the one that's under the circuits, we'll be talking about it in a moment
Ok, that would be out temperature #1
Now, we have to find which will be our temperature #2
that would be the medium temperature, how I called it
What is that temperature?
That temperature will help us to remove the circuits that don't have resin on them
the resin is the black stuff we saw earlier
For example, these circuits don't have resin, see?
none of them have resin
But, for example, if I want to remove the NAND
this one does have resin
all around
if I want to remove the Wi-Fi, it also have the black stuff all around, so
the temperature #2 will help us to remove the circuits over here
What I've seen is
we have to
try to remove a circuit in 25 seconds or less, ok?
25 seconds if the circuit doesn't have resin
Now, if we're talking about a bigger circuit or it does have resin on it
we can take even 40 seconds
but one of these
the appropriate time should be 16 seconds, between 12 and 15 seconds, you have to remove the circuit in that lapse of time
Let's go to the microscope, and let me show you
how to find your temperature #2
First, we need the finest tweezers that you have and bend the tips
Why do we have to bend them?
So we can grab the circuits like this and lift them
so we can lift them, look, I can lift it, not like this but lift them a little so
when you're applying heat, the motherboard falls and you keep the circuit on the tweezers
so, what you have to do to find your temperature #2 is the next
apply Flux on some circuit
and start with, for example, 300 temperature and 60 air flow, ok?
300 and 60, what I do is
grab the circuit and lift it
check the distance between the motherboard and the air gun
very very close to the motherboard, let's go over here
let's try to remove this one
now, let's count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26
and it never dropped,
25 seconds have passed and it didn't drop, that means that's not my temperature
so, I need to raise the heat and adjust it with the air flow, ok?
so, now I have to cool down this so I can make this example right
Ok, now
in this moment I have 300 and 60, let's raise it to 330
and the air flow stays the same
once again, let's apply some flux
and the same way we did a moment ago
grab
the circuit,
lift it, and start
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25
It didn't work
it didn't drop in 25 secs
at the moment we have it with 330 and 60, let's cool down the motherboard again
I'm forcing it to cold
and let's try it again with different temperature
I'm gonna raise it from 330 to 350
and raise to 65 the air flow, just a little bit stronger, so
you have to play with the temperatures until you find the correct one
now let's see
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16
16, ok, now it did drop
look, the circuit dropped
look at, I'm gonna change the camera
look, the circuit stayed on the tweezers
and the circuit dropped
by now, I have it at 350 temperature and 65 air flow, it fell in 16 seconds
I want it to fall between 10 and 15 seconds, so
I'm gonna use another motherboard
I've found a temperature that drops the circuit, but now I need a temperature to drop it faster
here I have another motherboard, let's see here
and warm up the same circuit
now, if I had it on 350, let's raise it to 360 and 70
it should drop faster
and starts
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17
there we go, 17
I can still raise it 10 degrees more, 370, because
a not so hot motherboard
took a bit longer
let's try again with other motherboard with the same circuit
but, I want you see that we're removing it with gravity
so, again, apply some flux
let's grab and lift the circuit
lift it and now to the microscope
370/70
and we start
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
there we go, 14 seconds
now, I've removed 3 and dropped between 15 and 17 seconds
for me, that's the medium temperature,
so I've just found a temperature
that will help to remove the circuits without resin in a lapse of time between 14 to 17 seconds
that lapse it's fine
I can work with that, so
in this way you must find the medium temperature of your hot air station
I don't wanna make a tutorial of "how to calibrate a QUICK station"
because, probably I'm gonna make it later, and not everybody has a QUICK, everyone has different hot stations
not everyone have QUICK
like this you'll find your medium temperature
Now, we need to find the maximum temperature
we'll be using this one for circuits that have harder resin, like the Wi-Fi for those circuits that
are bigger
like Baseband, PMIC or NAND
circuits that requires more heat
This temperature will be like 30 degrees higher than the medium temperature
just that
so, if my medium temperature is 370 degrees
now my maximum temperature will be 390 degrees
and this will be used for the harder circuits
How "harder circuits"?
For example, if I want to remove
the Wi-Fi
the Wi-Fi is this one, okay? So
If I want to remove the Wi-Fi, on Reballing we'll learn how to remove this resin
but in this case, we're gonna remove it with the lowest temperature, it was 180 if I recall
let's clean it. This is a practice
it's not reballing, I'm just talking about the hot air station
once we reach the reballing lesson I'll talk about it more in depth, so
I've removed the resin, and now
cause this circuit does have resin under it, it's a bit harder
so I'll be using the maximum temperature
to remove it faster
using the maximum temperature
there we go, it was removed without a problem
ok then
we'll need 3 temperatures
the first one is easy, around 150 to 180, it doesn't matter which hot station
if when you are removing resin and notice that some circuits are moving, then lower the temperature a bit
between 150 or 160
You'll find the medium temperature
with the 25 second test, the gravity test, grabbing a circuit, and the motherboard falling in 25 seconds or less
the best time I've seen it's around 10 to 17 seconds, that would be fine
And the maximum is 30 or 35 degrees more than the medium temperature
that will help us to remove those harder circuits
So, that would be everything for the hot air station, I don't want to go in depth
because in Reballing we'll be learning about calibration, when we'll be using 400, and all of that
So, everyone
this is all for the lesson today, I hope you liked it
please leave a like and comment below what do you think about these videos and what would you like to see next
or what do you guess the next lessons will be
Hugs to everyone, see you soon, bye!