"Is Liquid Smoke Flavoring Carcinogenic?"
We know smoke inhalation isn't good for us,
what about smoke ingestion?
Decades ago, smoke flavorings were tested
to see if they caused DNA mutations in bacteria,
and the test was negative.
Even as more and more smoke flavoring was added,
the DNA mutation rate remained about the same.
But the fact that something is not mutagenic in bacteria
has little predictive value for its effect on human cells,
so a group at MIT tested a hickory smoke flavoring
they just bought at the store against two types of human white blood cells.
Unlike the bacteria, the mutation rate shot up
as more and more liquid smoke was added.
But there is little evidence that mutagenic activity
in a particular human cell line is more closely related
to human health risk than is mutagenic activity in bacteria.
In other words, just because liquid smoke
causes DNA mutations to human cells in a petri dish,
doesn't mean that it does the same thing within the human body.
Damaging DNA is just one of many ways chemicals can be toxic to cells.
A decade later researchers tested to see what effect
liquid smoke had on overall cell viability.
If you drip water on cells, nothing happens,
they keep powering away at around 100% survival.
But drip on more and more wood fire smoke
and you can start killing some of the cells off.
Cigarette smoke is more toxic,
but 3 out of 4 of the brands of liquid smoke they bought
at the supermarket killed off even more cells,
leading them to conclude that the cytotoxic potential
of some commercial smoke flavorings is greater
than that of liquid cigarette smoke–
a finding they no doubt celebrated given that the researchers
were paid employees of the R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company.
Unfortunately, they didn't name names of the offending brands.
That's one of the reasons I was so excited about this new study,
where they tested—and named 15 different brands of liquid smoke.
This maximum "response" they were measuring was what was called p53 activation.
P53 is a protein we make, illustrated here in pink and red,
that binds to our DNA, shown in blue.
It activates our DNA repair enzymes.
So a big P53 response might be indicative of a lot of DNA damage,
and a few of the liquid smoke flavorings activated P53
almost as much as a chemotherapy drug like Etoposide
whose whole purpose is to break DNA strands.
Other flavorings didn't seem as bad,
though there was a hickory smoke powder that ranked pretty high,
as did the fish sauce, though smoked paprika didn't register at all.
The p53-activating property in liquid smoke was eliminated
by standard baking conditions (350°F for 1h),
so if we bake something with liquid smoke for long enough
it should eliminate this effect,
though just boiling, even for an hour, or slow cooking
didn't appear to work.
They conclude, "If the DNA-damaging activities of liquid smoke"
"were thought to be deleterious, it might be possible to replace"
"liquid smoke with other, safer, smoky substances."
Why do they say IF thought to be deleterious?
That's because they're not directly measuring DNA damage.
Remember, they're measuring P53 activation,
and that's not necessarily a bad thing.
P53 is considered "Guardian of our Genome," guardian of our DNA.
It's considered a tumor suppressor gene,
because it helps repair our DNA.
So if something boosts the activity of P53, is that good or bad?
It's like the broccoli story.
Cruciferous vegetables dramatically boost our liver's detoxifying enzymes.
Is this because our body sees broccoli as toxic
and is trying to get rid of it quicker?
Either way, the end result from broccoli is good, lower cancer risk.
It's maybe a biological phenomenon known as hormesis,
that which doesn't kill us may make us stronger.
Like exercise is a stress on the body,
but in the right amount can make us healthier in the long run.
So, for example, teas and coffees caused P53 activation as well,
but their consumption is associated with lower cancer risk.
So it's hard to know what to make of that smoke flavoring P53 data.
Due to the limitations of the available tests
it's hard to calculate the genotoxic potential of liquid smoke,
or any other food for that matter.
A better approach may be to just analyze liquid smoke for known carcinogens,
chemicals that we know cause cancer.
This was first attempted back in 1971.
One of the seven liquid smoke flavors they tested
contained a polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon
known to be cancer-causing,
but there's a bunch of similar carcinogens that they didn't test for.
A later study, tested across the board,
looking specifically at 5 different carcinogens
in retail liquid smoke seasonings.
The recommended daily upper safety limit for these carcinogens is 47.
Hickory smoke flavoring only has 0.8 per teaspoon,
so you'd have to drink three bottles a day to bump up against the limit.
And mesquite liquid smoke, only 1.1.
It turns out that most of these carcinogens in smoke are fat soluble,
and so when you make a water-based solution, like liquid smoke,
you capture the smoke flavor compounds
without capturing most of the smoke cancer compounds.
The only time you need to really worry is eating smoked foods,
foods directly exposed to actual smoke.
For example, smoked ham comes up to here,
and smoked turkey breast up to here.
So one sandwich and we may be half way to the limit.
But one serving of barbecued chicken takes us...
over the top.
Less than a single drumstick and we may nearly
double our daily allotment of these carcinogens.
Nothing, however, is as bad as fish.
Smoked herring? 140.
And we have to shrink down the graph to fit the worst of the worst...
smoked salmon.
One bagel with lox could take us 10 times over the limit.