that sled has been sitting for a couple of days the high build contour Polly is
cured enough to block and we're blocking with 120 very aggressive because why
we're still shaping we're not sanding or not prepping for paint that comes after
the black to Cape urethane primer surfacer so I like to have an arsenal of
different sanding blocks i have my during blocks and I have my soft centers
for a couple different reasons the dirt blocks from the more firm and they have
I don't get a lot of great shades too soft standards are extremely light and
offer just a little bit more variety because your goal here is matching the
shape and size of the block to the panel that you're blocking for instance this
has a slight crown
this has a slight crown as it gets more aggressive in that Cove
well you got a different block so more tools in the toolbox it's fun
let's start rubbing some primer now the power the guide code is going to show
itself really quickly here
look at my patch making the next
these are my rules with their good rules
we've got our work right
we shape the panel's properly with the fillers and this is just refining that
shape you can see what's happening here
this well it's flat that that's your low spots those are the spots that you need
to keep working on now I'm coming over
transition here that I want firmer block for because i want this to be dead flat
level so the door locked square go
look here this is no this is high
you have to you have to use a guide coat it's just it just helps
I never recommend using your project as a workbench so I'm breaking my own rules
right here
there's another thing I wanted to show you and this question comes up all the
time as a matter of fact a guy hit me on facebook and said well how do you keep
from sanding all these style lines down flat
here's how you work up against some user guide coat to the best advantage that
you possibly can
I'll show you
yeah
what I'm doing is blocking up to this style line and not passed
you got to show some self-control here walk up to it and not ask
and right here where disappears into the wheel arch and the same way you just
you're helping it along and now i'm on the bottom side and walking up to my
style
all right here beware be careful don't shave that line off you want to respect
those lines
you can see what I'm doing
I am accentuating and perfecting this style line
we can also see that it's not perfectly straight while I was out here and then
there so we can correct that we can correct that with the poly it's a
wonderful thing
now there's one of the things i want to show you here the guide coat is a visual
guide that helps you refine your surface
there's another one this is pre-painting prep in a pump sprayer and I could
literally wet check this stuff i can look at it and I can cite it and I could
see whether it's straight on
check it out look at the reflection my likes
if there was any waves in those those lights 8-foot fluorescent tubes
well baby bump and moving all over the place but they're not looking for the
quality of the reflection that tells me this area right here is going to be nice
and flat
especially under a black paint job now it's no doubt whatsoever
there's no question that blocking is a tremendous amount of work
however it costs you time that's all it cost me was time and something like this
well it's going to pay dividends it is it's worth it
it's sandpaper it's time but the the sense of accomplishment that you're
going to get by blocking to this level
you know it's it's it's gonna pay dividends at the car show and I don't
know I if you've got into this stage in your project
congratulations because you've shown true commitment and follow through and
just like us was that sled
you're going to have a nice straight project so thanks for watching hands on
cars
hopefully next time you see this thing will be shooting some color on it and
and I'm looking forward to that and on top of that i'm looking forward to
driving this silly soccer because it's going to be bad to the bone
thanks