This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV.
I'm going to show you how to easily make your photos look like antique oil paintings.
This is an update of tutorials I've done on this subject.
This tutorial is quicker and more effective.
Open a photo that you'd like to use for this project.
In keeping with the theme of antiquity, the end result will look best if your photo doesn't
include any images that could question its age.
In other words, just don't include any modern objects or modern clothing.
The filter setting amounts I'll be using in this tutorial are for images that have a resolution
of 150 pixels per inch.
To check your image's resolution, go to Image and Image Size.
If it's not 150 pixels per inch, just type it in.
The Width and Height will either decrease or increase, depending on whether you decreased
or increased its resolution.
Feel free to make its width and height any size you like.
Make sure the chain-link is active, so you'll only have to type into one of the fields to
keep its aspect ratio intact.
Open the texture I provided.
Its link is in my video's description or project files.
All antique oil paintings have a certain degree of surface cracks that appear over time.
This fine pattern of dense cracking is known as "craquelure ".
We'll make the texture into a pattern, which we'll apply over our painting.
Go to Edit and "Define Pattern".
Then, click OK or press Enter or Return.
Open back your photo.
Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer.
We'll fill the empty layer with the texture pattern.
But first, we have to fill it with a color in order to fill it with the pattern.
Check your foreground and background colors.
If you press Alt or Option + Delete, it'll fill with the foreground color.
If you press Ctrl or Cmd + Delete, it'll fill with the background color.
Double-click the top layer to open its Layer Style window.
Click "Pattern Overlay".
If it fills with a pattern other than the craquelure texture, open your list of patterns
and scroll to the bottom.
It'll be there.
Just click it to fill your image.
You can adjust the size of the cracks by scaling it down or up.
I'll keep it at 100%.
Right-click or secondary-click on an empty area of the layer and click "Rasterize Layer Style".
This will allow us to change our texture's Blend Mode later.
Hide the texture and make the photo active.
We'll convert it into a Smart Object, so we can modify it non-destructively.
To do this, click the icon at the upper right and click "Convert to Smart Object".
Let's zoom into our image, so we can get a closer look at it.
Press "z" on your keyboard to open the Zoom Tool and drag it over a small area.
To move your image within the screen press and hold the Space bar as you drag it.
Go to Filter, Stylize and Oil Paint.
If your Photoshop version is CC 2014 or CC 2015, there’s no oil paint filter, however,
I did a tutorial showing how to find & install an oil paint plug-in for FREE!
This plug-in is unfortunately not available for Macs.
The link for the tutorial in is in my video's description.
If you do see the oil paint filter, but it's grayed out, go to Image, Mode and make sure
RGB color is checked, as well as 8 bits per Channel.
If it's still greyed out, go to Edit, Preferences and Performance.
Make sure "Use Graphics Processor" is checked.
Click "Advanced Settings" and make sure the top two are checked.
In Macs, make sure "Use Native Operating System GPU Acceleration" is checked.
I'm using these setting amounts, but feel free to experiment with them for your image.
The "Stylization" adjusts the style of the strokes, ranging from a smear look at 0 to
smooth strokes at 10.
I’ll make it 1.
The "Cleanliness" adjusts the length of the strokes, ranging from shortest & choppiest
at 0 to longest & fluid at 10.
I’ll make it 5.
The "Scale" adjusts the relief or apparent thickness of the paint, moving from a thin
coat at 0 to thick paint gobs at 10.
I’ll make it 1.
The "Bristle Detail" adjusts how much of the paintbrush-hair indentation is apparent, moving
from soft at 0 to leaving strong grooves at 10.
I’ll keep it at 10.
The Lighting angle adjusts the incidence angle of the light and the "Shine" adjusts the brightness
of the light source and the amount of bounce off the paint’s surface.
I’ll make it zero point five.
Next, we'll sharpen the edges.
Before we do, let's zoom back out by pressing Ctrl or Cmd and the minus key on our keyboard a few times.
You could also press Ctrl or Cmd + 0 to fit it back onto your screen.
Go to Filter, Sharpen and "Unsharp Mask".
Basically, Unsharp Mask sharpens by increasing contrast along the edges of an image.
The "Amount" determines how much to increase the contrast of pixels.
I'll set it at 130%.
The "Radius" determines the number of pixels surrounding the edge pixels that affect the sharpening.
I'll set it at 2 pixels.
The "Threshold" determines how different the sharpened pixels must be from the surrounding
area before they're considered edge pixels.
I'll keep it 0 levels.
Make the craquelure texture visible and active.
Change the Blend Mode to "Multiply".
You can choose to keep the texture's opacity at 100% or reduce it to your liking.
Next, we'll brighten it and increase its contrast.
Open the Adjustments panel.
If you don't see it, go to Window and Adjustments.
Click the "Levels" icon.
I'll make the Input black level: 12 and the Input white level: 233.
Since each photo has its own characteristics of brightness and contrast,
feel free to adjust these amounts.
Lastly, we'll give it a slight, warm color cast, which occurs often over time to oil paintings.
Open the Adjustments panel again and click the "Photos Filter" icon.
Open the list of filters and click "Orange".
I'll keep its default Density: 25%, since this particular image is already relatively warm.
Feel free to increase it if you like for your image.
This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV.
Thanks for watching!