Hello friends and welcome to another video ,the ot
I looked down at a pile of my lip colors and realized something
I am a lipstick hoarder, and it's kind of becoming a problem, but how did we get here?
where did all these lipsticks come from and why do I keep buying them so I decided to try and learn more about the
Evolution of lipstick. Now, there's a lot of information out there, so we'll definitely miss some things
But I'm going to try my best to make some sense of how we got to the lipstick industry as we know it today.
also a big thank you to
audible for sponsoring this video if you find this topic of makeup history interesting like I do some of the books that I used for
My research for this video are also on audible so stay tuned until the end of this video
And I'll let you know which books you can listen to for more information on the topic
But for now, let's get on with the video. From everything I've read
It seems like people have been painting their faces and bodies for a very long time
As soon as we figured out we could paint caves
We started painting ourselves. These early humans wore face paint not necessarily as ornamentation
But as ritual protection against evil spirits. In particular they wore naturally occurring pigments such as black, yellow, and Red ochre
Which is a Fancy word for colored mud, or dirt.
Eventually wearing these pigments became more decorative than ritualistic and the first recreational makeup was born. Fast forward to
2500 BC and the Mainstay in every ancient makeup bag was a Reddish rouge for cheeks and lips.
Rouge's reddening effect was so desirable because it was believed to make you look healthy and
fertile, and red was also one of the most available and vibrant pigments at the time. Aside from using Red ochre ancient Egyptians also
imported the Kermes bug from Mesopotamia to create Carmine, a
Vibrant red Pigment, that is still used to this day in lipsticks
and in Frappuccinos.
throughout antiquity, lip wear stuck around in 200 BC in han China women wore red rouge to reshape their lips into
Circles, hearts, or flowers and around the same time roman women wore rose red or pink tinted lip paint. Queen Cleopatra of Egypt
Famously made her red lipstick of Beeswax, crushed ants, and once again carmine. So these pigments like Red ochre
And carmine seem to pop up everywhere
When talking about ancient lipsticks
So I
Asked my friends Katherine and Caroline, who own their own natural makeup company called Rituel de Fille to come over and show me the goods
I've been hearing a lot about carmine specifically, but I see some other ones out here
And I just, I want to know what we've got here. Pretty much all these ingredients
Especially carmine, have been used for thousands of years we also have annatto which is a seed that grows in South America
It's a it comes to these little little heart-shaped seed pods and its been used in makeup for centuries also. Oh, it's so orange kind of cheeto-y
And this is iron oxide. Oh, so this is yellow ochre. it comes in a bunch of different shades
This was the original pigment that people use for body adornment and even like the aboriginal cave paintings in Australia are iron oxide
And this is a Mica and an iron oxide blend.
It's basically natural glitter and it depending on the particle size can be sparkly or just a little bit glowy. Okay,
so this is like your ancient highlighter basically, and carmine is crushed beetles. They're actually not beetles. They're not beetles? They're not beetles.
They're tiny insects they grow wild they're a parasitic bug and make this incredible red dye.
This is the red that Cleopatra used for her lipstick. It's been used as an artist pigment for forever
It's even actually the red in red coats in the Revolutionary War.
It has a really amazing long history and actually it grows wild in California too. I mean it's so beautiful.
It's like kind of hypnotizing in a way. I'm just like *weird mmhmhm sound*. I want to eat it. Carmine is totally safe to eat by the way
I'm going to just - just take a little taste. Oh, I got a good clump
*Laughter* Delicious?
Your tongue is red. Kinda like the cinnamon challenge a lot of powder in there, whoa. Your teeth are red too now
Oh, I think I've actually licked most of it off
I was going to go brush my teeth, but um maybe I won't now but I will say that
It doesn't really taste like bugs, and I've eaten a cricket before so I know what that tastes like. So this lipstick
I'm wearing right now is their (Rituel de Fille) written in blood lipstick. Which is a hundred percent Carmine pigment, so it's
around the same color I think... as all those old ones... In the west during the middle ages onwards
Lipstick came in and out of fashion. When religious leaders who thought that cosmetics
sinful held a lot of sway, lipsticks were out. When influential style icons,
usually royalty, decided that they wanted to wear lipstick, lipstick came back in. Queen Elizabeth the first was noted for her interest in makeup
She wore basically a full face of white lead, and a lot of lipstick
So the one I have on now we tried to match off of a painting,
but it also said that she wore crimson lipstick made out of cochineal, the American cousin of the Kermes bug brought over by Spanish Traders
Elizabeth allegedly thought that lipsticks had preventative healing powers and health benefits
And it is said that by the time of her death
She was wearing like an inch of lipstick, think a hundred layer challenge. Lipsticks ping-ponged
Out of fashion during the Puritan takeover of England in the mid 17th century and ping-ponged back into fashion after the restoration of Charles the Second
During this time lipstick enjoyed like a hundred year grace period,
especially with the lavish fashion and makeup choices of the French aristocrats.
This high time of lipsticks came to a screeching
Halt at the end of the 18th century, when the British government started taxing the hell out of it and the French
Aristocrats who loved it, lost their heads. Now that is one way to end a trend. Queen Victoria, a style icon in her own right,
however austere, made sure that lipstick stayed out of fashion for a good part of the 19th century.
Something to note though, is that for thousands of years even during these times in which makeup and lipsticks were on the outs among the
Aristocrats, they were still worn by certain women who were considered on the outskirts of society:
prostitutes and actresses. this was true in the west as well as across the world in the east in Edo period
Japan, where bright red lipstick and makeup was part of the Kabuki theater as well as Geisha beauty regiments. So up until this point
makeup held some scandalous connotations,
but by the end of the 19th century as Victoria's influence waned and
interest in Cosmetics grew some luxury brands such as
Guerlain began to dabble in the idea of Lip salve and Rouge pads for their upper-class Clientele.
These changing attitudes open the door for the birth of the lipstick industry. This brings us to the nineteen teens in America
Where the Suffrage movement was growing, and actresses
Made the jump from stage to film, becoming seen as more glamorous rather than scandalous. In 1912
Suffragettes wore bright red lipstick as a sign of solidarity and protest, and in the growing silent film industry
actresses wore dark red or plum lipstick along with other heavy makeup.
No word on how silent film actresses dealt with the dreaded butthole lip. I guess they weren't doing a lot of talking so their lips
Were like mostly closed. These new style icons created a market of women who wanted to wear lipstick and lipstick
Technology began to rise to meet this growing demand, with the invention of the push-up lipstick tube. So this is a 20's style
Push-up lipstick tube- If I like, pull out this little mirror opens up. You have somewhere to like do your lipstick, right?
I'm like, manamanama
Basically we've got this little lever and it will push your lipstick up the whole way. It's not that smooth though
Maybe at one point it was smooth
but I don't know.
The 1920s were a new age for women in America, one defined by new freedoms and rights with the ratification of the 19th amendment, as well
As new attitudes about fashion and style seen with the flapper movement. Flappers carried bright or dark red
lipsticks proudly, even applying them, gasp, in
public. But even if you weren't a flapper girl, you still may have wanted to wear lipstick. The most popular brand at this time was
called "Tangee" which was a more subtle tangerine orange shade marketed as less brash than the red lipstick of the flapper.
It was also affordable at ten cents a tube and was accessible,
being sold for pretty much the first time in front of the counter rather than behind it.
The 1920's also saw a few key lipstick Innovations.
The push-up lipstick was replaced by the more convenient swivel up tube. Makeup ads started to be printed in color,
enticing customers to buy new shades, and the ongoing growth of Hollywood helped drive the burgeoning cosmetics industry. To put in perspective
how much the cosmetics industry exploded in the 1920s in
1917 according to Frances Fisher Dubuc only two people in the beauty culture business had paid an income tax.
By 1927,
18,000 firms and individuals in the field reported income. The 30s and the 40s brought the great depression and world war 2,
but neither could stop lipstick sales. During the 1930s
Lipstick sales rose, even as many people fell into hard economic times. This phenomenon became known as the lipstick effect
Which is the idea that during tough times,
people are still willing to purchase small non necessities such as lipsticks as a little luxury to boost ones spirit.
I tried to do the 1930s overdrawn top lip here.
Do I look like Kylie? In the 1940s as production was halted for many goods and factories were redirected for war efforts,
lipstick kept rolling. Wearing lipstick was considered patriotic
and a special wartime shade called "Victory Red" was developed to boost morale. This color on my lips right now is supposed to be a
recreation of the Color Victory red
It looks a little bit similar to the 30s red, but this one has the word victory in front of it
So I think it's better. Red lipstick was considered necessary and vital by the US War
Protection Board and even appeared in the American Marine Corps women's reserves makeup kit designed by Elizabeth Arden.
Okay, so this is a little makeup case from 1942.
There's some blush right there, and you see that like pink shade
And then we do have a lipstick in here it pulls out of the side. Wow that's from 1940?
1942. Could it be victory red? Should I try and swatch it or is that terrifying? Oh, this is petrified. *Tyler laughs*
Okay, so it's not victory red, but it's like a red of some kind.
I'm going to wipe that off. The 50s brought in a golden
Era of lipstick. Fashion Magazines were more popular than ever and models from these magazines were crossing over to Hollywood to become
uber style icon including Grace Kelly
Marilyn Monroe
And Jayne mansfield among others. As women scramble to emulate their look, lipstick sales boomed. This increased demand
drew more competition with companies aggressively competing to improve their formulas and
Marketing techniques to one-up each other. For instance the first
indelible, or long-wearing lipstick lines were created. And companies took marketing gambles, investing in techniques that have never been done before.
Notably, Revlon was the first makeup company to run television ads during the period, and it pushed their sales far ahead of their
competitors. So these are a bunch of vintage makeup tubes that I got off of eBay
It's hard to date them exactly like nobody had an exact date
But everyone says kind of like 50s and 60s. Most of these are avon I think. Wow, that swatched very well.
That's nice
I can smell that from over here. Yeah, that vintage makeup smell, smells so waxy right? In the 60s and 70s
lipstick trends changed along with fashion trends and social movements. Bold reds, pinks, and plums gave way to
lighter pinks and nudes, frosty pastels and lip glosses.
Competition amongst makeup companies continued with marketing campaigns focused on special edition lipsticks,
lipstick focused on different style tribes and for different markets
with mainstream brands beginning to provide more specialized products for African American women and
cheaper trendier options for teen girls. In addition to companies offering new products, the market itself was changing.
In the 80s women were entering the workforce more than ever before. Bold red and pink
lipstick looks came back in to match the bold eye shadow,
big hair, and large shoulder pads that were worn as war paint into the office. This desire for bold colors was
reflected by the celebrity icons of the time including Madonna, Brooke Shields,
Janet Jackson and Cyndi Lauper. The craziness of the 80s was replaced by the minimalism of the 90s. fashion Designer Isaac Mizrahi
Said of the decade, "in the 80s, It was so over-the-top
Now it's about how we can express ourselves and still maintain a certain amount of dignity."
Clothes got darker and lipstick colors got nude-ier with some of the most popular shades of the decades being browns,
rosy colors, nudes, and raisins. In the 2000s as fashion got brighter and pinker lips got
Really really really glossy
Sometimes clear sometimes tinted and sometimes tingly and plumping, like this one I've got on my face right now.
It hurts a little bit. these lip glosses were worn to complement the bronzed and shimmering makeup
Look of the decade. seemingly in contrast to this the decade also brought about the birth of the long lasting liquid lipstick
But because it was the 2000s they were almost always paired with a glossy top coat. The 2000s
also brought us more accessibility to the internet,
Which brings us to the lipstick market as we know it today. Some of the makeup trends of this decade so far have been
color-changing lipsticks, nude colors, metallic lipsticks, and matte liquid lipsticks. Smaller
independent companies can enter the market and exist completely online. An online video on products like YouTube and Instagram
Help us share, learn, and talk about these trends more than ever.
it's pretty amazing to see how much lipstick has changed in just the last 100 years when in
1917 only two people made money selling cosmetics.
It's been a pretty wild
100 years a lot of stuff has happened, a lot of lipstick has happened, and a lot of that lipstick is in my drawers.
I Hope I don't get head poisoning. So once again. Thank you to audible for sponsoring this video
I actually did some of my research for this video while doing laundry and the number one book that I would recommend for more
Information on this topic is "Hope in a Jar" by Kathy Peiss or Pace?
I'm sorry Kathy if I mispronounced your name
But it's on the screen. This book talks a lot about how makeup was perceived over time and especially that change in
Perspectives on makeup that occurred at the turn of the 20th century. Also if you've had enough of lipstick history you can listen to one
of my favorite books, "Double Cup Love" by Eddie Huang.
It's a really funny book about returning to one's roots and looking for inspiration for love and business in the past.
so if you want to try out audible you get 30 days for free by clicking on the link below which is
www.audible.com/safiya . so let me know if any of you guys end up listening to these books if you like them tweet me
I'd love to hear if you enjoyed them or not.
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A big shout out to Lauren for watching thanks for watching Lauren, and I will see you guys the next time