so my previous presentation we wired a couple of one way switches independently controlling two
different lights and we suggested perhaps that's office number one one way switch light office
number two one way switch light and now we're going to just quickly look at the terminations
within the switch and the skirted batten lamp holder just to make sure we get those connections
absolutely correct for me so we've now not got solid cables of which we've been using extensively
in our lighting circuits up until this point in pvc pvc twin and cpc cables as we're now in pvc
singles we've got stranded copper conductors so we need to make sure that we make a lovely connection
both at the switches and at the skirted batten lamp holders so in this presentation we're going
to look at those terminations so we'll start with my cpcs as always we need to make sure they
go beyond the box between 50 and 70 mm so we've got a nice conductor length so just trim those
back we're going to take our knife to remove the outside insulation around the conductors i know
i've taken a lot of stick for this on youtube we are early stages of learning we've only been was
14 15 weeks we're trying to get hand skills so therefore we're going to use a knife we're not
at the stage yet we're using any mechanical wire strippers we want to learn those basic
hand skills so i'm going to strip it back quite long at this stage so score around with my knife
take my pliers and remove the insulation and that is considerably longer than i'm going to need it
however for this technique i need to make sure that i can trim it back
so i'm going to twist it super tight most of my learners have already stopped i'm still going
still going still going and then i'm going to trim it back i need it to be about 11 mm
trim it back and then again just curl the end over so we're going to connect these into an insure
style maintenance-free connector the ones with the lever arms at the top
so that's what we're going to put in here in the back of the box take the second cpc
again remove considerably more of the insulation than we need to remove
lengthwise take it off and once again twist again keep going keep going
so we're nice and super tight and trim it back to about 11 mm and then turn the end back again
take my maintenance free and this style insure Wago make an identical one with the lever arm so
we're going to pull both arms up and position our conductors in like so push them into the connector
and arm down into the connector um don't just give it a tug yep so our two cpcs are in a maintenance
free connector held in the back of the box not needed to be connected to the box itself because
it's plastic not needed to be connected to the switch as well because it's plastic so neither of
them are an exposed conductive part but they are there in case the customer changes it say for a
metal fronted light switch the cpcs are present to be connected to the exposed conductive part then
let's move on to the line and switching line conductors next so next i'm going to connect into
the back of my one way switch i've got common and L1 there's only one way of turning the light on so
we're going to use a one way switch i've got two conductors here that are permanent lines the one
coming in from the consumer unit and the one that loops off to the second office with a permanent
line connections that will go in common and i've got my switching line one that goes up to my light
fitting which will go into L1 so let's terminate the switching line conductor first making sure
it's 50 to 70 mm longer than the box trim it back again take my knife this time this is going to be
doubled over so i might need slightly more of the insulation around the conductors removing
okay so it's super long again and i'm going to twist it tight
important to keep going so still going
okay so my conductors are nice and tightly twisted
i'm going to double this one over because there is only one conductor going
into the L1 termination so it can be doubled over it will fit in there so trim it back
twist again and now i'm going to double it over
so we're looking for a perfect connection that has no copper strands spraying out so
it's nice and solid for when it goes into the connection for L1 let's do that next
goes firmly into the connection and we should have no copper showing and we should be fully inserted
before we tighten up the conductor itself it's quite a tight fit but it does go in if
you connect it correctly okay so connection for L1 is done and it's doubled over we can see that it's
going to be a struggle to do anything other than single terminations where we have two connections
in the size of the hole in this style of switch so when we go on to do the common connections
we're only going to have them singularly into here and not doubled over so let's do that next
so once again now just take my two cables which are my permanent line connections that are going
to go into the common making sure 50 to 70 mm longer than the box before trimming them back
taking my knife remove slightly more than i need for this twisting purposes of the insulation
and we go through the process again this time we're not going to double that over
but we are going to make sure it's a nice solid connection that we're screwing into so
twist it tight remember don't give up yet nice and tight on the twisting
trim it back to the required length re-twist the end again
repeat the process for the second one press quite firm with your knife the way around
and we go and twist again
important that we get this twisting done correctly that they don't spray out and become weak
when they connect into the switch itself
trim it back
and twist again so i've got my two conductors nice and tightly twisted ready to go in can't double
them over i won't get them in if one was doubled and one was single so they're both going to have
to go in singularly and these are going into the common connection of the switch it'll be tricky
to get them to go into the hole itself they've gone all the way in so we can now tighten it up
okay so we've now got connected our switching line into L1 and our permanent line coming
in and a permanent line going out into the common connection of the switch we've made
a nice twist and tight terminations for the conductors themselves and we're ready now that
we can screw that back but remember we've got testing first so it'd be worth leaving it off
before we actually screw it back for the final insulation resistance test so for continuity
we'll leave it off the insulation resistance test will go on so we're ready to move now to
the skirted batten lamp holder so in order to get to the screws for these terminations here
it's quite tricky to do it you're at a slight angle if you do not disassemble the skirted
batten lamp holder so i'm going to unscrew the straight skirt and it's supporting ring
so i can actually get straight at the connections that here we've got one here and one here which
will be either line switching line or neutral doesn't matter which and this one here will be
switching line or neutral the reason being it's a bayonet cap lamp holder the pins have no polarity
so it won't matter if i choose that one as the neutral and that one as a switching line or vice
versa and the back section here the back one is the connection for the circuit protective
conductor be careful if you're using Edison screw style lamp holders that you actually prioritize
them so there'll be only one pin in the center on a Edison screw which will be the line and the
screwed part will be the neutral for the second one but we've got a bayonet cap one and we're
comfortable with these in my workshop we know it has no polarity so it doesn't matter which one's a
switching line and which one's neutral but the cpc is important we get it in the right termination
let's make these connections next so exactly the same as the switch when we're making the
connections in our straight skirted batten lamp holder where there is two cables we've got two
neutrals and we've got two circuit protective conductors the insulation will be removed twisted
tight and singled into the actual terminations themselves where we've got only the one switching
line conductor we will obviously strip it back twist it super tight and double it over
for the connections within the actual baton lamp holder itself
so let's speed that up maybe so you can see these connections going in just to be aware
where there's only one that be doubled where there's two they'll be singled
using the same method as we use when connecting the actual switch itself so let's do that next
oh
okay so we've made our connections it didn't matter which side we used as for the two neutrals
and we've got the other side being used for the switching line connection because as we
said before it's a bayonet cap lamp holder and our cpcs are connected into the back terminations here
no copper showing nice and tight the single one's doubled over the two cpcs are singular and the two
neutrals are singular for our connections into our accessory remembering to twist them super tight
trim them back re-twist and maybe double if needed if there's only one in a hole or single if there's
more than one going into another termination holes so we just need to rebuild our batten lamp holder
so our straight to go batten holder plate on first followed by supporting ring making sure you don't
cross thread it should go up nice and easily followed by the straight skirt
the batten the lamp holder now is ready to be secured
back into position so we've terminated both a one gang one way switch and a
straight skirted batten lamp holder this time in pvc singles making sure our conductors are
tightly twisted together before termination and making the decision whether they are singled or
doubled over depending on how many are going into each hole i hope this video has been some help