- Hey, what's up, guys?
Welcome back to another episode
of "Chemical Guys Detail Garage."
Today in the shop,
I want to go over how to enhance your shine,
protect your paint,
and keep your paint looking as great as possible.
(air whooshing)
So today, I wanted to go over with you guys,
some tips and tricks that you guys can utilize
on how to maintain your shine.
Now when it comes to vehicles,
such as like this black BMW right here behind me,
you know, with black,
especially the color black, you see everything.
So all the dust, the dirt, the grime.
So today, we want to focus
on doing a video for you guys out there
that want to maintain your shine.
Coming from an owner of a black car myself,
I tell you guys that black
is one of the most beautiful colors that you can have,
but it does require a lot of cleaning and maintenance
to keep it looking that great.
And so as you guys can see right here,
this BMW behind me,
it already has a beautiful shine going on for itself.
But we want to enhance that shine
and we want to protect it,
so that it kind of dust, debris,
we're prone to those kinds of things,
so that the paint is super slick,
and we keep our ride looking as clean as possible
for as long as possible.
So step one, when it comes down
to having super slick paint is having super smooth paint.
And how do you achieve that?
Well, you want to clay bar your paint.
A clay bar is a decontamination tool
that pretty much pulls off any kind of embedded dirt, grime,
industrial fallout from the surface of your paint.
So if your paint feels kind of rough and raspy,
this is going to remove that feel
and it's going to restore that glass smooth feel.
So before we began with this,
I do want to mention that this vehicle is already washed.
We've already pulled it inside.
It's fully dry,
and it's ready for us to go ahead
and start doing all this work to it.
So we're going to begin by clay barring.
So I'm going to grab my OG Clay Bar.
Now this OG Clay Bar right here,
it's a mixture between a light and a medium clay bar.
So what does that mean?
Well, it's a mixture between a light and a median clay bar
in the sense that it's going to pull off
light to medium levels of contamination.
So, as I mentioned before,
this BMW, it's pretty well maintained.
It's for the most part, pretty smooth,
but there are some areas that have
a little bit of contamination,
such as the top areas like the roof,
the hood and the trunk.
So we're going to focus on those areas,
but we're also going to get the sides,
and the bumpers and all those other lower areas.
With our clay bar we're going to use Clay Luber.
Now Clay Luber is a great tool to have with your clay bar,
because that's going to lubricate the surface
so that you can generally pretty much
glide the clay bar left and right on the surface,
without marring or scratching the paint.
So what you want to do
is you want to open up your clay bar here,
and you want to grab yourself a little chunk.
Now you don't need to go ahead
and grab the whole entire clay bar.
You just want to make sure to grab a nice chunk
that you can kind of grab with your forefingers.
So once you've got yourself a little patty
to work with of clay bar,
you can grab your clay lubricant and start claying.
All right, so now that we're ready to start claying,
like I mentioned, the vehicle is clean.
So before you clay bar,
wash a vehicle or wipe it down with a quick detail spray,
or use a waterless wash.
But since the surface is clean, we're ready to go.
We have our clay bar here.
We have it into a nice little patty
that we can grab with our forefingers.
We have our clay lubricant.
What we want to do is spray directly to our clay bar.
And then you want to spray a good amount
onto the surface, as well,
just to make sure that the area
is saturated with the clay lubricant.
Because remember,
we want to make sure that this clay bar glides on the surface.
And you just want to work it in straight motions.
Work in straight motions,
you can go left to right, up and down.
Doesn't matter, whatever your preference is.
Just refrain from using any kind of circular motions,
'cause if anything gets caught onto your clay bar
and you pretty much mimic that around the vehicle,
then you can potentially scratch up the paint.
So just make sure that you're using enough lubrication.
Lubrication is key when it comes down to clay barring.
And I'm not applying any pressure,
I'm simply allowing the clay bar
to gently work itself onto the surface.
So it may look like I'm putting pressure down,
but I'm just using the pressure of whatever my hand weighs,
just to kind of lay on top of the clay bar,
so that it doesn't just slide right out of my hand
and so I don't mar the surface.
And once you feel the paint
gradually getting smoother and smoother,
you can move on to another section.
I usually like to cover a bigger section at a time,
whenever I'm working indoors,
just because it makes the process much faster.
On vehicles that are much more contaminated,
you'll feel that once you first start,
it feels like you're actually scratching the paint
just because of how rough it sounds.
But don't worry, it's just pulling off the contamination.
So as long as you're using enough lubrication
with the clay lubricant,
and you're gently gliding your clay bar,
then you'll be safe.
So once I've finished an area,
I'm going to go in and set this down.
I'm going to grab a Workhorse Towel
and I'm simply going to buff off the excess of the lubricant.
And as you guys can see right here,
it wipes right off nice and smoothly.
And you can actually feel the paint
already how smooth it is.
It feels like glass right now.
And then you just buff off any excess.
So depending on how contaminated your paint is,
this process can vary as far as like the time
and the amount of clay lubricant needed.
But ideally, if you're working on a maintained car,
this process shouldn't take too long.
I know it took me a little, you know,
a little while to do that section.
That's just because I wanted to demonstrate
to you guys how it's done.
But you know, nonetheless,
to get the whole entire vehicle done,
it's going to take me less than about 10 minutes,
15 minutes at most.
So I'm going to continue
with doing the rest of the vehicle,
and I'll be back with you guys once we're done.
All right, so we just finished
clay barring the entire BMW.
Now it's time to put the polish.
Now when you look at the paint on the BMW,
you would say, "It looks amazing."
But we're still going to hit it with the polish
because we want to get that super, refined finish.
So we have our TORQ22D here set up,
with our pads and our V Line.
Now I'm not going to be using the entire V Line today,
simply because the paint on this vehicle is very,
very in a good condition.
So what I'm going to use is V38,
which is the final grade polish,
that's the finest polish that we carry in the V line.
And that's pretty much designed to go ahead
and bring out that high gloss, ultra finish.
So that's going to pair well
with our White Hex-Logic Polishing Pad.
Now I'm going to use it with the white polishing pad,
because like I mentioned, it's going to refine the paint.
So even though you don't see
a lot of scratches, swirls, in the paint,
it's still a great idea
to follow it up with the finer polish,
just to give it a quick little one step
just to remove any kind of like
fine micro swirls and scratches,
any kind of light water spots, oxidation that builds up.
All those things can be
taken care of with V38 Final Polish.
Alright, so now that we have our machine set up,
we're going to grab our V38 Final Polish,
and we're going to apply six dime sized drops onto this pad.
Now, a rule of thumb
whenever you're working with these machines,
is you want to apply as much dots as there is,
as far as like the inch that it carries.
So since this is a six-inch,
we're going to apply six dime sized drops.
And that's just to make sure that the pad
has an even amount of product throughout it,
so that we can work onto the surface
for maximum cutting.
So once we're done,
we're going to go out and pretty much
blot it onto the surface.
So I'm going to go to blot this little section of the hood.
And I'm using the TORQ22D
because it has a six-inch backing plate.
Now the reason I'm using that
is because, as you guys can see,
this BMW has a lot of flat panels.
The hood is completely flat.
The bumper pretty much, for the most part, is flat.
The fender would probably be like the only area
that I would say is like, has a curve look to it.
But the doors, they're completely flat.
The quarter panels, the trunk and the roof.
So the 22D works out great,
because it has a six-inch backing plate
with the 21-millimeter throw.
So that's going to work great
for kind of getting the best coverage
with just one swipe of the machine.
Now with this right here, now that I blotted out,
I'm going to turn it on to speed setting one
to work in the product
in the area that I'm going to be working in.
(TORQ22D motor running)
So now that I've worked it into this area right here,
I'm going to throw it on speed setting six
and work it in fully, 'til it becomes translucent or clear.
Now with a finer polish, such as V38,
that's going to happen very, very quickly,
as opposed to one of the more aggressive compounds,
such as V32 or V34.
Simply because of the abrasives in here,
they're more refined,
so they'll break down a lot more easier,
and they're more so to refine the finish
and to give it that deep wet shine.
So I'm going to begin
on working the machine onto the surface,
and I'll be back with you guys once we're done.
All right, guys, so we just finished polishing
this side of the hood.
As you guys can see,
I can already tell without even putting
my ultra bright light on there,
that there's a huge difference as far as clarity
and any kind of find scratches and swirls.
I'll bring you guys in for a little bit of a closeup.
As you guys can see right here,
on the right side you have a lot of still, you know,
fine scratches and swirls.
On the left side right here, it's not perfect.
There are some kind of rock chips here and there.
But I mean, it definitely does look way,
much more better than the right side,
which is unpolished versus the left side, which is polished.
Now remember, we just used a fine polishing method.
So we used V38, which is the finest polish in the V Line.
And if you were to go ahead
and go a little bit more aggressive,
you can get any kind of other
deeper scratches and swirls out.
So if your paint is more, you know, neglected,
go and resort to anything from like, V34, at worse V32.
If you do need to do a light cut,
then V36 is great enough.
But just to show you guys just a quick little demonstration,
how fine V38 is
and the kind of imperfections that it'll remove,
so you can see, it looks great.
So now that we've finished polishing this side of the hood,
we have a lot more work in front of ourselves.
We have to polish the rest of the vehicle,
and then get it ready to apply a coat of glaze.
(upbeat electronic music)
So after we finished polishing the pain with the V38
and the White Hex-Logic Pad,
now we're going to proceed to the glaze.
Now, what is a glaze?
A glaze it's a micro swirl filler
and it enhances your shine.
So even though I mentioned that we polished the paint,
it's still a great idea to hit your paint with a glaze,
such as the Wet Mirror Finish.
One because it has those micro swirl fillers,
so if there's any kind of microscopic
swirls or scratches in the paint,
that's going to fill them in
so that we have more of a deeper,
lustrous kind of paint work.
And the reason that I'm using Wet Mirror Finish
is because it has anti-static agents.
So with a black car like this,
or with any other car,
it's going to create a durable,
anti-static barrier on the surface of your paint.
That's going to help repel a lot of dust
from sticking onto the surface of a paint.
So as you can imagine on a dark colored car,
like this BMW, that black color,
Wet Mirror Finish is going to bring out
that super wet look finish.
And as you guys, that own black colored vehicles out there,
know dust and dirt, it looks very nasty
when it's on your black paint.
Especially, when you just spent like three hours,
washing and detailing it.
The last thing you want to worry about is dust
clinging onto it, right after you're done
doing all that work.
So use a product that's going to maintain your ride
and repel a lot of that dust.
Wet Mirror Finish,
not only does it bring out that super, deep, wet shine,
but also protects your paint.
Another great thing about having a machine polisher
to help you with doing all this work
is that you can actually apply your coat
of Wet Mirror Finish with your TORQ22D,
or any kind of DA polisher.
Now we have the Black Finishing Pad right here.
The Black Finishing Pad works out great
for applying your favorite
Chemical Guys' glazes, sealants and waxes.
So in this instance,
I'm going to use it to apply my Wet Mirror Finish.
I'm going to use it just like if I was going to polish my vehicle.
The only difference is that when you're applying a product
onto vehicle, such as a glaze, sealant or a wax,
whenever using a finishing pad,
you want to use it on the low speed setting,
such as one or two.
Simply because you're not working the product
into the surface of the paint,
you're simply applying a nice, fine coat over it.
So you just want to make sure that it has a nice,
even layer on it.
And you can apply that with speed setting one or two,
just to achieve that.
So the same way you use this product,
just like with the polish.
You want to open it up
and you want to put yourself about six drops of product.
These can be a little bit bigger simply because, you know,
you don't want to come back and forth,
as far as like having to reapply more product.
Six drops, that's more than enough.
We'll close that up.
So when you're applying a glaze to your paint,
you want to apply a nice, fine coat.
So with this right here,
we're not going to turn it up on speed setting six.
We're not going to work it in.
All we're going to do is simply apply it to the surface.
So we want to blot it out onto a little section.
I like kind of working by panel,
so I'm going to coat the whole hood first.
So what I'm going to do is blot it out.
And like I mentioned, on speed setting one,
I'm going to spread this out,
because I'm not working the product into the surface.
I'm simply allowing the machine
to spread a nice, fine, even layer onto the hood.
So I'm going to turn it on,
turn on to speed setting one,
and coat the hood.
(TORQ22D motor running)
Guys, and just like that, within less than 30 seconds,
I applied a coat to the entire hood
and I can continue
with doing the rest of the vehicle.
So I just wanted to show you guys how quick that was,
just to show you guys how quickly,
and easily and efficiently
you can apply your products onto the paint
with using a DA polisher.
So after we've finished applying
our coat of Wet Mirror Finish,
we let it sit for anywhere from about 10 to 15 minutes
for it to flash,
and then we buff it right off
with a Premium Microfiber Towel.
So now that we've finished applying that,
it's time to apply a coat of protection, which is JetSeal.
Now JetSeal, I'm applying because it's going to bond
directly and adhere directly
to the code of Wet Mirror Finish.
So not only does Wet Mirror Finish set a foundation
to bring out the brilliant pop of your paint,
but it also sets a foundation
for any kind of other sealants or waxes to adhere to better.
So in this case,
I'm going to apply a coat of JetSeal over that.
And that's going to pretty much grab it,
since it's already set the foundation onto the paint.
It's going to grab it
so that the sealant has the best durability possible.
Now we're using JetSeal because, you know,
I kind of figured we'd follow
with the ease of the application method with the machine.
And JetSeal is perfect to apply with the machine.
The only difference is that you want to make sure
to use a different Black Finishing Pad,
because your other pad is already filled
with the Wet Mirror Finish.
So you can either choose to clean it out
or have a separate pad just, you know,
for that case of applying JetSeal,
just so that you don't have to work, you know,
back and forth cleaning and having to apply it
and coming back and cleaning.
It works out great for having one pad
for each specific purpose.
In this case,
I have one pad for applying Wet Mirror Finish
and have another pattern for applying a coat of JetSeal.
Now we're going to apply a coat of JetSeal
with our DA polisher.
Now same thing with the glaze,
you want to make sure to apply this finely.
So we're not going to be here all day applying this.
And that's the reason I like using these products,
is because you can apply them with the machine
and it makes detailing so much more easier and more faster,
because you can do this very quickly,
efficiently and get those results that you're looking for.
So I'm going to set that down on the floor,
and I'm going to continue
with applying the coat of JetSeal onto the vehicle.
I'm also going to apply it to the glass, as well,
just so that we get that durable,
hydrophobic protection on the glass, as well,
so that when we're driving an inclement weather,
all that water just pretty much sheets or beads right off.
So I'm going to get this done,
and I'll be back with you guys once we're done.
(upbeat electronic music)
All right guys, and just like that,
it's been about 15 minutes now.
I let the JetSeal sit a little bit longer
just because I wanted to make sure that
that sealant bonded directly to the paint.
So with JetSeal, like I mentioned with the glaze,
you want to let it sit
for anywhere from about 10 to 15 minutes.
Ideally, want to let these products pretty much flash.
So whenever they kind of have like that white
kind of hazy look to them,
or if you can just go ahead
and wipe it off with a one clean swipe
of your microfiber towel,
then you'll know that you're ready
to buff it off.
So we gave it about 15 minutes.
I'm going to grab our microfiber towel here,
buff it off and reveal that beautiful,
lustrous, protected shine.
Now we applied it to the paint.
We applied it to the glass.
I'm not sure if you guys saw,
but I actually applied it to the windshield
as I was applying it to the whole entire vehicle,
simply because, you know, you want to get the job done sooner.
So we applied it to the glass
as we were applying to the paint,
and it just made life so much more easier, much more faster.
And it just made it so that we can apply a pretty even coat
of JetSeal throughout the entire vehicle.
And just like that, check that out.
Just by buffing off this little section,
it looks 10 times as much better
than what it was when we first started with.
After a long day of detailing, paint correction,
and getting this BMW back into tip-top shape,
it looks amazing.
It's sealed and protected,
and it has a layer of anti-static
with those micro swirl fillers from the Wet Mirror Finish.
As you guys see, the result on this BMW looks phenomenal.
I personally think it looks way much better
than when it first came in here,
simply because of the glaze that we put on there.
It made a huge, drastic difference
when we set that down on there.
So with all this work being done, what do we do now?
Well, at the beginning of this video,
I mentioned to you guys
that we were giving you guys our tips and tricks
on how to pretty much maintain your vehicle,
and how to keep it looking as great as possible,
and dust-free as possible.
So we mentioned using that Wet Mirror Finish
because it did have an anti-static agent.
Now to maintain your ride,
we want to show you guys
Synthetic Quick Detail Spray.
Now Synthetic is great
because not only it a quick detail spray,
but it also has an anti-static agent to it
that's going to repel a lot of dust from sticking to the paint.
So as you're wiping off any kind of dirt, grime,
or, you know, you're going to a car show,
your car has been sitting for awhile.
This is going to pick up all that bird poop,
grime, dust, fingerprints,
and also lay down that anti-static layer,
so that when you drive off next time,
a lot of that dust doesn't want to stick to your surface
so ends up just pretty much flying right off of your paint,
without you having to actually wipe it down
or anything like that.
So it makes a huge difference in terms of maintenance
because of the high-gloss shine that it provides,
the slickness that it provides,
as far as like wiping off those contaminants,
without scratching or swirling your paint,
and repelling all that contamination
from sticking to your paint.
Synthetic Quick Detailer is as easy to use
as any other quick detail spray.
All you have to do is spray it directly onto the surface
and wipe off with a microfiber towel.
Now this does have that layer of anti-static.
So with this product right here,
you'd want to just kind of come back with a dry side
and just give it a final little wipe down.
And that'll just pretty much pick up any excess
of that grime that's still on the surface,
and buff in that layer of that anti-static protection.
So remember, this works out great for maintenance.
You know, I know we just did a full detail on this car,
but, you know, sometimes whenever you're doing
this much work on a vehicle,
you know, the rest of the vehicle
tends to get kind of dusty and stuff.
So this works out great
to kind of give it that final cherry on top,
clean it up and pretty much wrap everything all up.
If you guys liked this video,
make sure to give us a thumbs up.
And if you guys liked any of the products
that we used here today, make sure to visit our website,
ChemicalGuys.com to pick yours up today.
As always, my name is Joey
and this is "Chemical Guys Detail Garage."
We'll see you guys next time.
(air whooshing)
(mellow electronic music)