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- If you already own a TT or triathlon bike
then you're clearly thinking about your aerodynamics
and keen to shave some time off your bike splits.
But you shouldn't just stop there.
We have some tips and tricks to help you
get that ultimate TT bike set up.
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The bike leg in a triathlon is very different
from something like an all out 10 mile time trail.
So we certainly need to consider our hydration
and where we store it all.
Now there are a tonne of different places
that we can store hydration on the bike.
We've got on the frame, between the handlebars
on top of the handlebars
behind the saddle
and even on our back.
Now, I wouldn't suggest the latter
but the others are really good options
and a little dependent on the bike that you have.
We really need to consider ease of access
as well as the aerodynamics.
And if we're truly trying to save watts and time
we want to minimise moving from the aero position
every time we want to take fluid on.
Which is why these aero bottles between the handlebars
with a straw are really the best option.
And a lot of them are becoming integrated
and designed nice and neatly with the frame.
If you want to use a bottle on the down tube
consider using an Aerod bottle
rather than a traditional bottle.
All these little things help to reduce the air turbulence.
That in turn, improves the aerodynamics.
Now you may be wondering what to do in a long race.
You'll need to hydrate more
and if you plan to pick up a bottle on the course
you'll receive a traditional bottle like this one.
Which is where a cage behind the saddle comes in
like my bike.
Whoa, okay, so the cage behind the saddle
allows you to hide that relatively non-aerodynamic bottle
behind your own body.
You can drink from here
but it is relatively hard to reach around for the bottle.
So another option is to just use it as storage
and back up to refill any hydration system
that you have at the front of the bike.
Hang on, where's the other bike gone?
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You put a tonne of time and effort into your training
to improve your power on the bike.
So don't throw some of that away
due to poor bike maintenance.
There are a number of moving parts on the bike
that will deteriorate and get clogged up with time.
And the chain is a prime example of that.
They're made up of hundreds of moving parts
so they need looking after to run smoothly.
A shoddy chain can actually waste anywhere
around seven to nine watts.
Over time, they pick up dirt.
They dry out, and they even stretch with age.
Now the dirt can be cleaned
and it can be re-lubricated
to make it work more efficiently.
But the stretching however
is just part and parcel of its use really
and it can be checked with a tool like this.
And when it's had its time
it simply needs replacing.
Now other parts that will need some attention
are the jockey wheels and bearings.
The jockey wheels, will just need cleaning and lubricating
in the same way that we have with the chain.
The bearings, in particular the bottom bracket bearings
are a little harder to get to
but they do deteriorate with time.
Especially if you've been riding in bad weather.
Now, a sign that your bearings are on the way out
is that they start to make a bit of noise when you rotate
or it just feels a little bit gritty.
So you can maintain the bearings
but a lot of the new modern bearings
just need replacement.
And in my opinion, if you're looking to save watts
a full replacement is probably the best option.
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generally, these kinds of bikes
come with a 52 or 53 tooth large chain ring
which may be plenty for some
but for others, they may want to consider increasing it.
And on my own bike, I've actually switched over
to a 55 tooth chain ring.
Which personally, I feel a little bit more powerful with.
And I run out of gears far less.
Now you might be wondering what you do
if you're racing on an undulating course
or a course that includes a big hill.
Well to partner these rather large gears on the front
you can increase your gear range on the back
with a cassette that has a nice variety.
And using my own bike as an example again
I've opted for a 12/27 cassette
which gives me a really nice range
and quite a jump to the easier gears
so should I hit a hill
I can just drop down into the small ring
and up into my easier gears
and get myself over the climbs
and the nice thing is it's a lot easier to change cassettes
than it is to change the chain rings.
So you can choose the correct cassette
for the course profile that you have coming up.
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Right, the tyre is our contact point with the ground.
So it's really important we consider our choice carefully.
And grip tends to be the first thing
that people think about with the tyre.
But there's so much more to it than that.
A lighter tyre reduces the rotating weight
which in turn improves the responsiveness of the bike.
And to add to that, a better quality tyre
tends to be more supple
which again, improves the responsiveness of the bike.
It's also worth considering the width of the tyre
and different widths will change the feel of a bike
and even its aerodynamics.
A 25 mil tyre like this one
will feel a little bit more comfortable than a 23.
And it's actually become the choice of many pros
due to research that suggests 25s
have a better rolling resistance than 23s.
To add to this, many wheel manufacturers
are increasing their rim width at the wheels
to match this slightly wider tyre choice
and to improve the aerodynamics and air flow
around the wheel.
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Moving along from the tyres
onto the wheels.
They're not the cheapest fix
but they certainly have a big impact
on the bike's performance.
Now we all know that the deeper rims
are more aerodynamic
and they create less dirty air
which is why we see them on most TT bike set ups.
The deep rims also have the added bonus
of acting a bit like a sail in the crosswinds.
As the air flows over the wheel and angle
it can create a forward thrust effect.
Then we have the disc wheel.
Not only do they look good, they sound good.
And in the right conditions
and on the right course
they are the boss of all the wheels.
They smooth the air flow better than any.
And the sail effect is obviously greater.
That said, they are slightly heavier
so I wouldn't recommend them for the hillier courses.
Now we could be here all day
talking about TT bike tips and tricks.
So I've just picked out a few of the key points
that I believe have the biggest impact on bike times.
But please do send in your suggestions
in the comments below.
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