Hi, Jason with Tormach. We got fun little video for you guys today. Thanks for
coming to check it out. I was working around on the family farm. And I was playing
with one of our utility carts. And I had to build a couple new components for it,
and fixed some stuff. And I needed a motor coupling. I wasn't able to get the
exact sizes that I needed on both. So I went ahead, and an ordered one, but it
ended up not working. I thought I'd be able to put a bushing in here, but it
ended up not really working out well, and holding. So I just went ahead and
modeled this thing up in Fusion 360 quick, and then we made one. So it was a
fun little project. We got a lathe op, a couple mill ops. As you can see we worked
through this thing and we got this nice little component. Fits up really well.
So let's walk through how we made it, and the steps that we cooked up.
So you see on that we're on the lathe here. We just turned some custom soft jaws to hold the
stock. We're just using an 80 degree diamond to do all the turning and facing work.
We just did all the programming for this, all in the conversational. So it's just a
quick profiling tool path that we created.
We came back with drill...
under a half inch. We used it to rough out the bore.
To bring the boring bar back in, and do the finished work.
The bore finished right at a half inch so we
just drilled it...I think about 15,000's under size, and then just brought the boring
bar in to bring it to final size. You can see here, we took a quick measurement
just to get our size, and then be able to fit the part to it, and then we just made
a change in the cutter compensation. We just went ahead, and made the X square
value a couple of thousands bigger. Then on the restart, if you click on the
screen somewhere, you can see I just touched that tool path line, and it
jumped me to that section of the program. It's kind of a quick easy way to search
the file as well. You could also use the find command on the MDI line we kind of
just ran through that a couple times to get it to size. Here's some footage of
the parting tool. We just cut this off. I left just a little bit of stock there as
you can see, so I could reach in and just break the part off. So I didn't just send
it flying around the machine. So we've got a cut the vise shots here quick for
our little motor coupling on the first mil app I'm not real sure
how deep I need to cut them I'd like to hold on to at least a couple hundred
thou to get some good locating and holding on this. So I'm just gonna kind of quick
and dirty check here. Here's my slitting saw that I'm gonna use. So I'm just gonna
put it in the slot on the existing part, and I'm just gonna measure the depth. I'm
just looking for a quick number, you know, we got about four hundred thousandths
there you know. So if I hold on to the the part by about two hundred you know,
I'll have two or thousands clearance between the vise jaw and the nut itself
on the saw arbor. So we should be good to be
able to just program this at two hundred thousand deep. While I was checking this,
I also decided I should probably look to make sure that my slitting saw has
enough reach to be able to put the slot in, and as you can see, I'm about fifty
thousand short. I'll take the saw off of it and I'll chuck it back in the lathe,
with the nut, and everything on it, and go ahead and just turn the OD of this down
so that I have a little bit more clearance.
This is bloody hard. This is going to be good.
So here we are back on the lathe again with the saw arbor. This is made out of an alloy
steel. So we ended up running this right around 200 surface footage I think.
And you can see the chips are just starting to turn color. You can also hear the high
pitch chatter that I had initially. I backed the RPM slider bar off I just
ended up backing up to right around ninety percent of what I had it
programmed at, and it quieted that cut right up. So you can see, as it's
finishing up here at the surface finish and everything looks really nice, and the
cut sounds nice. In the design process of this part, I grabbed some pieces of scrap
that I had laying around, and I threw them in the mill, just to test the profile, because...
I literally grabbed a caliper and, started measuring it off to kind of get
a rough idea. I went through a couple revisions on it to get everything to fit
nicely, and everything. So I just this is some footage of it's just a test piece
we cut. I think we had you know 15 or 20 minutes and finding a piece of stock and
cutting some jaws quick and just working through the process of cutting this
single feature on the part so we could test the fitment of the rubber bushing
here. So here's the project in Fusion. You can see we have two different setups. We
just used the adaptive roughing strategy to rough out the inside of this part.
Came back with the 2D to here to just finish up, and we did use
wear compensation on that.When we use where compensation, we set the
compensation type to wear, and then what this does is, it still compensates for
the radius of the tool, so that in the control on the offsets page we can just
keep our tool does diameter at zero. And then if we need to make a change, we can
go plus or minus, you know, a thousandth or two. Whatever change that we need to
make. Came back with a quick little drill mill, a quarter instrumental here, to do
the chamfering. And then, we have the saw to put in the groove.
I took some pretty light depths of cut. I think it was only about a hundred
thousands per pass on this. Pretty conservative, but as you'll see, we did
run into a couple problems with the saw, that came down to user error and set up
problems. Then we just have op two. We just use the end mill here to...
...helically bore the counterbore out.
Came back with the spot drill, the quarter-inch drill
mill, to drill and spot for the tap drill. So we did use this tool to drill through
the first side of the part here as you can see. And then, we just came back with
tap drill and the slitting saw to put in this second slot here.
You can see we're on the cutting the actual parts.
This is a setup part. I did bore one of the ID's a
little bit oversized. So this is a setup part for us at this point. Any time you
scrap a part, keep it, and scrap it a couple more times as you're working
through the process. So then you don't have to worry about ruining any other
components. It gives you that, that get out of jail card, or that chance to work
through a setup with less. You don't have to be so worried if you do make a
mistake, you already went down that road once.
Here we're just using the cutter comp.
You can see we're using the diameter value but we're using it as a wear
compensation. So we are just putting in the amount of change we want so in
Fusion we just set the compensation value to wear.
And then, it still compensates for the radius
to the tool for us, but then then it gives us that
ability to do a wear compensation in the control.
So here's some footage of the adaptive roughing pass.
All this stuff ran real well.
And we used a full depth of cut. I think we're at a fifty thousand step over on
this. You'll see here this is kind of running slow. This is the first time through it
so, right about here, I speed it up to full speed, and then I just let it cut
from here out.
We are just breaking that edge on the top of those posts.
It's using a little drill mill, a little quarter inch drill mill to do that.
Then we're just gonna test fit that one more time to make sure that we've got it.
It's sitting real nice.
Then we come with the slitting saw. Initially we started out we had a thirty second wide saw blade,
that was three inches in diameter. That groove is right around a sixteenth of an
inch, but this is only saw I had on hand at the time. I programmed they're pretty
light depths of cut on this. Trying to be conservative, and as you'll see here in a
second I still ran into a problem putting in this feature. If you look at
it real close what you can see is that the saw blades' actually wobbling. When I set
this up I did I didn't look hard enough so when I actually took the saw back
apart after I broke it, I found a little bit of aluminum chip on the saw blade
itself so that was causing a run-out which caused the excess rubbing and
ended up binding up the saw once I got into the deep depth of cut.
So here I went ahead...when I ordered my replacement saw,
I just got the appropriate width.
I am running a 60,000, or 1/16 inch saw here, just to put the feature in one pass.
I also increased the fog Buster substantially on how much we were putting out .
Saw blades like a lot of coolants, a lot of flushing, to keep them
cool and lubricated so they don't rub and than get warm, and stick to the parts.
I definitely turned up the second try. Here we're loading op two. We have to put a
cross hole in for the clamping of the on the shaft for this so we just clamp it
in a little pocket. We're using a little bump stop on the right side to
just locate the part consistently. Here I cheated a little bit again I used that
same chamfer or a drill mill tool to drill the clearance hole. It's a six
millimeter thread, so the quarter-inch works as a clearance drill so I drilled
a spot extra deep to get through that first half so that I can just use it to
drill through the second for the tap drill size. You see here I paused a
little bit because that holder he got real close so I kind of just stopped it
there to check to make sure that my tool wouldn't hit part or the holder would go up
on the part. Then here we're just coming back with the tap drill for the M6
We're just doing a chip breaking cycle on this. Everything worked pretty nice. It
drilled real nice. The spot drill worked pretty well. I was hoping to what I
didn't want to have to add a second drill bit just to drill the clearance
hole to come back and drill this tap drill size so we're thankful that the
spot drill work for both. Here we are putting the slot in the second op. So
this only goes through half of the part. We kind of took the same approach extra
coolant on this and use the same speeds and feeds and everything we ran on the
initial first op, and didn't really run into problems after that first one. We just
made sure we do everything cleaned up properly.
with the saw when we assembled it. So here we got the parts all wrapped up ready to go
put this thing to use. Pretty happy with how it looks and how it turned out, and all the ops.
The run time on it was real reasonable. The slowest part of the whole process
was this running this slitting saw as I mentioned I did take that pretty
conservative just cause I didn't want to run into problems, and even though I did run
into problems with it, everything ended up working out pretty well in the end. So
So thanks for watching guys. I hope you enjoyed the video. I enjoyed this project.
It was fun. Worked through a couple a tops and a couple mill ops, ran into some
problems along the way, but it's definitely fun be able to work through
everything and make a nice component when you're all done. So if you want to
check out some other of our YouTube channels, you can do that here or feel
free to subscribe to our YouTube channel here.
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