Should I eat the head? Should I do it?
Yeah, you’ve got to eat the head.
The juice comes out.
-Don’t say that. -In a good way.
-Head juice. -It’s like a Gusher.
We’re coming to the end of our epic journey across
European land and sea using ferries, coaches, and trains.
We’re finally on the train to Naples.
And, adding up all the carbon emissions,
we’ve actually totaled at 50 kilograms of CO2 per person,
which is crazy.
We could literally now go back through another seven countries
five times over before producing the same amount of CO2
as one direct flight.
It may take longer and be more expensive,
but ultimately it costs the planet less
and is way more lols.
You can get almost anywhere by foot from Naples city center,
though it can sometimes feel like the Vespas are hunting you.
And you can use the metro or local buses to get to the beach.
The historic center can sometimes feel like an influencer conference,
but Sanita, Montesanto, Pignasecca Market,
and the Spanish Quarters are where locals go for
spritzes and incredible food.
Can you believe we made it?
We’re here, in Naples.
It’s crazy to think that we got on a ferry from Newcastle
and now we’re all the way in Naples.
We had to teach ourselves new ways to travel.
You need to be kind of ahead of yourself. You do need to plan.
If you’re not into planning, then get into it
because this is what you can get from it.
I have a really good feeling about Naples.
It seems very lively, really beautiful.
Everywhere I look, there’s something interesting.
This time, in part one of our season finale,
we catch a train to Naples,
eat deep-fried pizza,
and party at a refugee dancehall club.
Welcome to
Before the pandemic,
we made a sustainable guide to traveling Europe
and found out it’s funner without them anyway.
Arriving in town, we’re meeting up with
Neapolitan filmmaker Victoria Fiore,
known for documenting the local tradition of fire games,
which happen every year in the city.
Vicki would teach us how to cross the street in Naples without dying
and also show us the best food, bars, and other secrets.
-Welcome to Napoli. -Thank you.
-Hello. -How you doing?
Let’s go eat, I’m hungry.
So, how long have you lived in Naples for?
So, I was actually born in London, but raised between here and London.
I moved here, officially, four years ago.
What are we eating? Whereabouts are we going?
Oh my, so we’re going to Mercado de Pignasecca,
so Pignasecca Market.
And it’s going to be street food.
So, I want you to try a bit of everything
and I want you to understand that Napoli is not just pizza.
It’s also fried pizza.
Also fried pizza, and the fried pizza is so good!
Right, so this is our first destination.
We're going to get a fried fish cone.
Thank you.
Now, you have to eat this whole.
-Even the head. -Yeah, yeah. I eat it whole.
It tastes so fresh,
but then also so crispy and fried on the outside.
The attention is kept on the fish because you do have a light batter
rather than it being this huge caking of batter
and a tiny bit of fish.
Should I eat the head? Should I do it?
Yeah, you’ve got to eat the head.
The juice comes out.
Don’t say that.
In a good way.
-Head juice. -It’s like a Gusher.
This is an algae ball, I love it.
Is this your favorite food?
I love my algae balls.
-Happy algae balls. -Cheers.
Put it all in there.
It was like a seafood donut. This is incredible.
Zeppole di mare
Zeppole di mare.
Right, we need to get to the next place.
Come on. We need to have everything here.
We love fried stuff in Naples.
Yeah, I’m noticing that trend.
Fried zucchini flower,
fried aubergines,
then we’ve got some fried polenta,
we’ve got some little spaghetti balls,
there’s some little rice balls...
Thank you.
Put the specimens on the table.
Oh, my goodness.
-It’s fried mac ‘n’ cheese. -Arrest the man who made that!
That’s a dirty, dirty little snack.
This is straight filth.
I mean, shall we have some vegetables, like a flower?
One of the proverbial five a day.
Mamma mia!
Oh, the polenta squares are magnificent.
Oh my God, the oil.
Are you joking?!
They talk about the Mediterranean diet, “Oh, it’s so good for you.”
I’m like, ”Nuh-uh!”
Beige food is definitely my favorite of all the food groups.
It’s a beige wonderland.
This way to the pizza fritta.
This is the best fried pizza of the city.
Good afternoon, my name is Victoria.
We want a lovely pizza, yes.
Fried, with ricotta, provola, tomatoes, and a bit of pepper?
-Everything. -Dad, come on, let’s get started!
Thanks.
Neapolitan food is the best food.
I’m sorry for the others.
As we say in Naples,
calm is the virtue of the strong.
One.
And three.
He’s getting us a beer.
He’s not even asking us, he’s just getting us a beer.
-Thank you. -You’re welcome.
Buon appetito!
-Thank you. -Thank you.
This is the best thing you’ve taken us to so far. This is incredible.
I genuinely was imagining just a slice
thrown in the fryer.
Like a Glaswegian thing.
I didn't think I could fit more fried food in me,
but I could eat three of these.
What’s going on in here? Who’s this guy?
So, this guy is Padre Pio.
He’s known here as being sort of the patron saint of certain drug dealers.
There’s been times when they found guns behind him or under his skirt
or drugs hidden under there.
I don’t know if they still do that anymore
because they've been found out so many times by the police.
What part of the city is this?
So, right now we’re in the Spanish Quarters.
In Naples, we had Spanish Bourbon rule for a few hundred years.
And in the 1700s, they created this neighborhood
to house all the military.
All the streets are quite narrow.
And then it became quite easy
for criminal organizations to take part of it.
It became a center of prostitution and illicit drug trades.
But that was in the past,
and actually things are changing and looking up so much more.
People of my generation, lots of people left because
there wasn’t much to do here.
And there's a huge wave of people coming back
and starting to work to make it into a city that we’re proud of.
My eyes have widened.
I’ve caught sight of a very big Aperol sign.
What’s this place?
So, we’re at Cammarota Spritz. €1 spritzes, famous all over Napoli--
Sorry, wait, can I just pause you and rewind a second?
Did you say €1 Aperol spritzes?
-Cheers. -Cheers!
You can really taste the €1.
Right, guys.
Today, there’s a really important match, Napoli versus Liverpool.
And we’re going to watch it.
Victoria’s taking us to watch the Napoli Liverpool game
with her friend Saheed, a refugee who fled the Ivory Coast
and has since made Naples his home.
I can show you one place where I watch the Napoli match
when I don’t have time to go to San Paolo Stadium.
Why did you move from the Côte d’Ivoire?
Actually, I wasn’t thinking about coming to Europe.
Or to Italy in general.
Then I was in Libya for almost six months.
Because I was in prison,
I was abused,
I was...
tortured.
They make videos where they are mistreating you and torturing you.
And they send it to you family so that they send money, honestly.
They put a gun to your head,
he kills the other guy right in front of you,
to show you that if your parents don’t pay up,
he will kill you too.
And I saw almost 300 other Africans,
who, like me, were waiting to get on
the small boat to go to Italy.
They got me on, we sailed for three or four hours.
One hundred and fifty people were in the other boat
and they all lost their lives.
We had to wait three hours in international waters,
before the big boat came to save us.
But most importantly, we were all saved and everyone got out.
What can you show us about the Napoli that you love?
When you want to go to a club, sometimes if you’re black, it’s a no.
You cannot enter, no,
you have to be outside.
You don’t have your place here.
But Teranga is our house.
I can show you Teranga.
Teranga, meaning welcoming,
is a migrant-run space that serves world food,
runs club nights and puts on exhibitions celebrating diversity.
Hearing about Saheed’s harrowing journey to Naples on a migrant boat
made us realize how privileged we are to have been able to travel freely.
Teranga bar felt like an antidote to the right wing immigration policies
that have been spreading throughout the continent.
A place where Neapolitans old and new
could dance side by side.
Or try and dance, in Matt’s case.
Naples is different from the rest of Italy.
You need to understand the human warmth
the conviviality, the welcoming [atmosphere].
You are with real people, good friends
who you can have a good time with.
Next time on
it’s part two of our season finale,
where we visit a cemetery with 80,000 skulls that you can adopt,
That’s a lot of dead people.
learn to make the best pizza in the world,
We’ve been taught by literally the best.
and witness an ancient Neapolitan blood ritual.