Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today we're going to be working on our 2011
Polaris Sportsman 850. Specifically, we're going to go back and we're going to replace
the brake disc if you want to call it. Some people call it a rotor, other people call
it a brake disc. At any rate, I know from previous workings
on this machine that it needs to be replaced in a big way.
So, we're going to bring her up in the air, get that front tire off, and I'm going to
show you how to do it. Let's get started.
Alright guys, we've got her up in the air, and like I promised, this disc is in sad shape.
It probably has at least two millimeters worn off of it and it's going to pretty much destroy
these brand new brake pads if we don't do something about it.
So here's what we need to do. Go ahead and collapse the caliper, remove these two 15mm
bolts, lay it out of the way. Pull off the center cap and there's probably going to be
a cotter pin and then the axle bolt on the other side of it.
We're going to take the whole assembly off, we're going to knock out these studs, put
on our new disc, and then draw the new studs back through it.
So let's get it going. There's our cotter pin.
Just going to spray a little penetrating fluid on here because she is just about corroded
solid. Special tool number 112. Pretty sure it doesn't tell you how to do
that in the Polaris manual, but hey it worked. So we're going to definitely replace that.
That bolt's going to be a little tough to get off. And of course I'm in a shop, I have
one of these, and I'm going to end up using it.
But if you don't have air or an impact, you can use a long pry bar. Get it in there like
that and then break it loose because we're going to replace these studs anyway, so it
really doesn't matter if they get marred up a little bit right now.
Notice when you took these out, they're actually beveled. You want to make sure they go back
in the same direction since that's holding tension on it.
Alright guys, the service manual for this unit suggests that you just "lightly tap"
the disc to detach it from the axle. However, in this particular case you can tell I had
to put a lot more muscle into it than that. Trust me: it took a lot to get this thing
off the hub and get it to detach. Alright, now that we've pulled it apart, it
didn't come apart the way the manual says it should. So what it actually did was destroy
that inner bearing so we're going to have to replace that.
But now with that off, all we needed to do had it come apart as it should is knock out
these studs, replace the disc and then put it back together.
As you can see here, that inner carrier actually stuck to the axle or the hub itself. Now I'm
going to have to pry that off and that's going to take a little bit of work to get it done.
I'm going to try just up on this vice on that flat surface to see if I can get it started
and see if that's going to work for us. The service manual suggests that you use a
press to push this unit out. I've got one, but I'm just going to do it using a hammer
and a punch tool to get it done. It's bottomed out against the carrier but
now that we've got it started it should go ahead and push through.
Wah-hoo! Well, she's out. It wasn't pretty but it's
out of there. Alright, to get the new bearing back in without using a press, just start by lightly tapping
it around the edges to get it centered, and then really start driving it home to get it
to seat completely. Once it is seated all you have to do is replace
the retaining ring. There we go-- now it's seated all the way
around. Next, we're going to have to get that inner
race off the hub. I've got a couple of tools that I'm going
to be working with. We'll start off with the punch and just start to pry it off to about
half-way and then we'll put it in the vice, clamp down on it just enough to where it will
hold it, and then knock it through. Alright taking a look at the hub, I would
recommend using a wire brush to straighten out a couple of these edges that were damaged
when I was using the punch to get that inner race off. We just want to get it cleaned up
all the way so we can get the new bearing to seat on it.
Now we can finally install our brake disc. All of that just to get a brake disc replaced.
Unbelievable. The brake disc itself is just attached by
these wheel studs so they're just compressed in there.
Now getting it all reinstalled is just the reverse of what we did to take it apart.
You want to make sure you put plenty of grease on the inside of the hub. this will keep it
from freezing up should you have to pull it back off.
Now, with everything lined up we just want to gently tap it back onto the shaft.
Now don't forget to install the washers correctly. They're cone type washers, and you want the
center section pointing out. From this point all you need to do is tighten
it down. It's a 27mm socket and we want to take that to 80 ft-lbs.
Alright guys, this wasn't part of the game, but I noticed that the rubber on this tie
rod end was ripped. Especially when I tried to move it up I just made it worse and when
I tried to grab this lower section to hold it still. So we're going to go ahead and get
it replaced. What we're going to do is break this locking
nut-- break it loose. Then, we're going to count the number of turns it takes to extract
it. That will tell us how many turns to go back in with the new one.
Fourteen is going to be our number. I don't know if ya'll were paying attention but this
is actually a reverse thread. And
don't forget your cotter pin. When you're putting the brake caliper back
on, make sure you pay special attention to how the brake line is positioned. It should
look like this going over, and around, and underneath the A-arm.
Alright guys, we've got the bearing in place, we've got our new studs in place, we've got
our new brake disc in place along with new brake pads. and we went ahead and replaced
that tie rod end. Next, we need to get this bolt to 80 ft-lbs.
How do you hold it? Well, what you do is you get an assistant
to hold the brake and if they would wave over there. That's my version of Vanna White, and
she's going to hold the brakes while I put 80 ft-lbs. on this.
A little bit harder-- there we go. Eighty ft-lbs.
Alright, with that we just need to straighten out our cotter pin a bit more, get it through,
and then get that dust cover in place. Alright guys, that pretty much wraps it up.
I know we were just replacing a brake disc and it got a little bit more involved than
that. But sometimes that's the way things happen.
Listen, if you need any of these parts, come see us at partzilla.com. If you have any questions,
a comment, just leave them below and I'll do my best to answer them. Until next time,
thanks for watching.