Hey, YouTube viewers, this Donnie Smith.
And welcome to this video on hammers and dollies.
In this video, we're just going to cover the basics of hammers
and dollies and how to select the right tool
for the right job.
There is a very wide variety hammers and dollies out there
when it comes to body work.
And all these dollies, you know, they have names.
But what I want you to concentrate on,
not so much the name or any of that type of stuff,
but what I want to focus on is making sure
that the right tools fits the job you're working on.
And what I mean by that is, every dolly
has the shape to it.
And hammers, we'll talk about those as well.
And by the way, I'll put a link down
in the description of these dollies
so that if you want more information about those,
or prices, or anything like that,
you should be able to view what the current prices are.
But dollies have a lot different shapes.
You'll notice that this one is flat, really flat here.
However, we don't drive to many box cars.
I see a few of them out there, but we usually a panel
will have somewhat of a contour in it.
And so these flat surfaces may not come in too handy.
There are times when they will.
So that's why these dollies, though,
have all these different shapes.
And what you want to do is, select a dollies that's
going to fit the panel you're working on.
So for example, if your fender has a contour to it,
and it fits that.
Well, this is the right dolly.
You know, make it simple.
Keep it simple.
Just make sure that the dolly fits the dent
that you're working on.
Now this is called a toe dolly.
And you can kind of see why.
It kind of resembles a toe, kind of the shape of a toe.
And it has a flat surface.
If you are working on something real flat,
also has some surface that has a radius.
It's kind of rounded here.
It's got an edge here that's rounded.
If you're work on something where you need that shape.
So you got quite a few different shapes and edges
with this toe dolly.
This is a heel dolly.
And I'm sure you can imagine why that's called a heel dolly.
It's kind of shaped like a heel on your boot.
But again, it's got a flat surface.
And then, it's got a surface that's
got a radius on the other end.
And plus, it's got sharp edge around here.
If you're working on a corner or somewhere where you need
that edge.
And there are several different surfaces and edges
that you can use on that.
So just make sure that whatever you're working on,
that you just make this fit the fender.
Now, this has several different names.
I think the correct name is universal dolly.
I've also referred to as a combination
dolly because it's got different types of surfaces going on.
And it's also referred to as a railroad
dolly because it's kind of shaped
like that, like a railroad beam.
But this has a lot of different surfaces on it.
You've got a real rounded radius here.
You've got this-- I don't know if you can see it too good.
But you've kind of got an edge rounded surface here.
And then, you've got this flatter radius here.
So these come in real handy, these combinations dollies,
universal dollies.
You'll find a lot of purpose, lot of uses for that.
Now, those dollies I was showing you and this hammer,
these are from Fairmont.
These are a higher end, higher grade tool, little bit more
expensive than the ones I'm going to show you here.
Fairmont or Martin, that's more your professional grade tools,
but they're going to cost you a little more money.
But body hammers, the way to hold a hammer,
the way I hold them is, I put it in my hand.
And I use my index finger, and I hold it forward.
Because we don't necessarily hold this like a framing
hammer.
Because we're not going to rear back and hit hard.
Hold it like that, and that will help
you aim and guide to target that you're hitting for.
Hold it like that.
And you also, like I said, you don't
know be framing a house or anything.
It's going to take a series of smaller strikes
rather than big ones.
I when you're hitting a nail, you
want to hit that nail as hard as you
can to get it into the wood with as few strikes as possible.
Well, that's not the case in body work.
You want to use a series of smaller strikes.
This is a flat surface, but it's slightly rounded on the edges.
Because if we did hit, and we was off center just
a little bit, if we hit like that instead of like that,
if that's real sharp on that edge,
you're going to dent the metal.
So most of your body hammers are slightly rounded on this edge.
And then, of course, this head is
what actually hits the metal.
Now, for some reason, if you was wanting
to spread your blowout to a bigger area,
you could use this.
This is called a spoon.
And you put this on the surface that you're hitting.
Let's say we're working on a buckle,
and we're wanting to spread the blowout without damaging
the metal, we could put this on there.
And then, instead of hitting metal, we hit this.
And whenever that hits the spoon,
it's going to spread your hammer blow out to a larger area.
This can also be used as a dolly.
Let's say, we don't have a lot of access
to the back side of a panel.
And it's hard to get to it.
Maybe we can't get a dolly, but we could reach this back there
and use that as our dolly.
Know I'm going to show you this Eastwood set.
And if your DIYer thinks that this would be a great set,
I think you can check the link down there.
But I think this only runs like $80.
And it's not much.
And you get seven piece, you get the hammers and assortment
of dollies.
But again, it's got a combination dolly,
just like we talked about.
And it's got another combination-type dolly.
It's got some different surfaces for you
to find whatever fits the panel.
And the one we didn't talk about.
This is a comma dolly because it's
kind of shaped like a comma.
I've also heard this referred to as a wedge dolly.
But this comes in real useful.
Sometimes you've got a less radius surface
that you're working on, and that fits it
real well like in a fender or something like that.
See, that would fit that real well
if that was the shape of the vendor.
And you could put that back there
and work your metal with that.
Also has a sharper edge here.
If you're working on a body line, or you're
needing to sharpen up an edge for some reason.
And then, it also has a sharp edge right here.
So this can come in very handy as well.
Now, let's talk about the body hammers a little bit more.
This is your chisel hammer because this is like a chisel.
And this will work good.
If you're working on the backside of a body line
or concave area, and you're wanting to tap that down,
this will work real well.
This is just your regular hammer over here,
rounded on the edges, so you don't bend the metal
if your hitting crooked a little bit.
Which, whenever you hit, your hammer
should be straight down, flat on the surface.
But you know, I'm not perfect every time.
You may not be either, so you do want
that just a little bit rounded.
That comes in handy.
Next, we have a pick hammer.
And this is kind of like the chisel hammer,
but it come straight to a pick.
And this usually is used just for if you're
working your metal, usually in the final stages,
and there's a small high and you just
barely need to tap it down.
You can use that to tap that area down.
Now, when using this, you never want
to hit it too hard with that.
This is for a really light series of taps.
And again, this is the same surface as the rest of them.
It's got the rounded edges, and this
is for your regular body work.
And this is your shrinking hammer.
This is used to help shrink metal.
Because whenever you're working with metal, a lot of times
it's going become stretched.
And it may even oil can where it pops in and out on you.
That means that the metal is stretched,
and you're going after shrink it.
These teeth will bite into the metal
and will help shrink the metal back to where it should be.
If this doesn't do it, you may have to use heat.
But that's what these teeth are for is
to help shrink your metal.
Now, let's talk about just a couple techniques real fast.
There's basically the hammer on dolly and hammer off dolly.
The hammer off dolly is the technique
that you want to use first.
That's for your rough out.
That's to get the majority of the dent out.
So as you reach in behind the dent,
you're going to put this on the low area.
And you're going to push out, put
some force pushing out on the dent.
And as you're doing that, you're going to come with your hammer.
And you're going to tap down any highs
that you may have and around this area.
And as you tap and push those highs in,
you're going to push that low out.
Then, once you have the metal roughed out,
and it's pretty straight, then, you
can use the hammer on dolly technique.
And that's just used to smooth out
the small ripples and things like that.
That's where you put the dolly on the backside of the dent.
And then, you hammer straight onto the dolly just like this.
And like I said, that just helps smooth out
any of the ripples and things like that.
But you have to be careful.
Anytime you hammer on dolly, you're stretching that metal.
And so you need to be careful with that.
You may have to use your shrinking hammer.
If you stretch it too much, may even
have to use a heat shrinking method.
That was just a quick overview of hammers and dollies.
I hope you enjoyed this video.
Again, if you want more information,
there's a link down in the description
where you can find out more about these.
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