- For a standing seam metal roof,
the trim that goes around the perimeter of a building,
is important because it takes a lot of the uplift forces
from wind and extreme weather.
Today, we're learning how to install
eaves, rakes and valleys.
(upbeat music)
What's up guys, welcome to The Metal Roofing Channel,
I'm Thad Barnette.
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we release metal roofing
and metal construction content every Monday and Wednesday.
Well, after you dry in a roof,
the next step is
to install perimeter trim like eaves and rakes.
Matt Lane from Metal Construction Solutions
and Installations, is going to demonstrate
how we installed those flashings
on Adam Mozella's home project.
He started by cutting back the excess underliner material
to have a clean area to install the eaves.
The eave flashing, which Matt refers to in this video
as drip edge,
is screw down with number 10 one-inch pancake head screws.
(drill machine drilling)
All the joints are caulked and sealed up.
(drill machine drilling) (upbeat music)
- Coming off the bottom here,
we wanna tab up the sidewall,
that way we'll put this flashing on.
Even the gable end and eave trims and everything,
we're gonna make sure they're shingled,
that ways water runs down,
you don't have water running inside for any extra risk.
We're gonna get that water, as far away from the building,
you know, down the walls as we can.
(upbeat music)
(drill machine drilling)
- Once the eave metal is in place,
it's time to take a look at the rake
or gable under the roof.
For Adam's house,
he chose a foldover gable detail instead of a box gable.
(drill machine drilling)
- Okay, so we've finished our drying
on Adam's building here,
now we're starting to run our perimeter flashing.
This flashing is pretty simple, but it's really important.
Sheffield Metals has a six-inch screw pattern
and the reason it's so important, I mean,
this is the edge of your building,
this is where your wind uplift is mainly gonna occur
and if you skimp on this fastening,
if you're running a lot of screws
and they're stripping out,
you need to make sure that's correct,
'cause this is what,
here is what is gonna hold down your roof
in the long run when you get a good storm.
This type of flashing has a cleat.
The panel's gonna go on,
it's gonna get wrapped right around this flashing here
and it's gonna hook all the way up and down.
And then the same thing,
we've got a piece here started on the eave.
Every panel is gonna get cleated
and hooked onto that eave.
The top of the panel gets hard fastened,
so that we have expansion
and contraction here, free to move.
This flashing in here, we're running up now,
running up the rake,
we're gonna tie in, up here to this other rake
with a nice clean transition.
So, one side of the building comes into the other,
the panels fasten up tight there,
the ridge cap will come over
and that'll be weather tight.
(upbeat music)
- At the peak of the ridge,
Matt fabricates a tab on one rake flashing,
to lap over the top of the second rake flashing.
(drill machine drilling) - We're having some issues up
on this part of the ridge.
For some reason, a little bit of the lumber in the facia,
isn't grabbing as it should,
so we've put a few extra screws in here.
Part of Sheffield Metals warranty details,
is a starter strip ice and water shield cover
and all the fasteners on the eaves
and on the rakes like this,
just to make sure that these things are sealed
and just in case there's any holes,
we'll go through and we'll caulk
and seal everything that we've got.
It's not good, but you do have areas that we've missed.
We've made sure we've gotten the screws in
that we need for our uplift
but we wanna make sure those are weathered in,
so we're gonna run a strip of ice
and water shield up and over all of this,
before that panel gets covered and cleated in.
Something I didn't mention before,
was these screws.
It's really important that they go in flat
and you'll see it later too when we're putting clips in.
You don't want these screws going in sideways
that panel be sticking up
and they can tell a graph through that panel pretty well.
So we're just gonna keep
flashing in our perimeters
to make sure everything's water tight around.
And then after that we will start setting our valleys.
So much like a shingle you know,
you always wanna keep things
no working in a water shedding manner,
every layer, it just serves as extra protection.
You don't wanna do it backwards
and have a problem in the future because of it,
so just take the time, make sure we're shedding water
with everything we do.
It just helps in the long run.
- Another thing to remember about a flashing perimeter.
When you're putting the ice and water shield down,
you wanna make sure that you have a large enough lap
and end lap at the end of each little section
of ice and water.
For Sheffield Metals,
that's six inches at an end lab
for weather-tight warranty details.
- Gonna grab the piece up here from the ridge.
All the way down and then here when it laps over
at the edge, we're gonna leave six inches of an end lap
and we're always gonna remember the watershed principles
that Matt was talking about earlier.
This piece of ice and water shield is gonna go over top
the eave section here.
- At the same time perimeter flashing goes on,
Matt installs the valley metal,
so the roof is ready to start accepting panels.
He first makes a rough cut in the valley
and traces a line on the underside of
the metal for an exact cut.
Don't forget to add one inch to
that line for your hand.
That extra inch allows you to bend over
the metal and slide it into the eave tramp.
(upbeat music)
- So we're working on the valley.
We're hemming things over in order
to cleat our eave piece here.
You really don't wanna do a lot of bend at one time,
you wanna take it slow,
otherwise you'll end up with a bunch of creases
in the surface of your metal.
It wouldn't damage the product as far as,
you know functionability works,
but you know it wouldn't look pretty in the end so,
we want a product that works
and one that looks great too.
You don't wanna leave a spot open,
for bees or critters,
so we're gonna tab these over,
close this valley off, so it's all nice and clean.
So before we started this valley,
we ran a chalk line up the middle,
to make sure everything's running straight,
we run up to the peak.
We ran one up the other valley.
We also coordinated that with our ridge
to make sure everything's tidy and clean at the top.
So hopefully when we throw our valleys on,
we'll have very little adjustment to do,
when we're finished
- As you go up the roof,
the valley laps need to be 12 inches minimum
with two rows of sealant, four inches up from the lab.
An offset cleat is added with butyl tape underneath
and screws every four inches on center.
(upbeat music)
- Thanks for checking this video out today.
Make sure you stay tuned for
the next part of our installation series,
where we start putting panels on the house.
There's a ton more to come including pipe penetrations,
a chimney and a vented ridge.
So subscribe here to
The Metal Roofing Channel so you won't miss it.
Comment down below if you have any questions or
if there's anything you'd like us to cover in the future
and as always I'm Thad Barnett
and we'll catch you next time.