Today I’m going to be showing you how I made this super functional work holding wasteboard
for the StepCraft D.840. Definitely stick around to see how we made it.
The plans to make your own work holding wasteboards just like this are available
on our website, so you can definitely check those out. It's just item number WBP. These are sized
out to fit the StepCraft D.840, but can be resized to fit whatever size machine that you would like.
So I’m just starting out with a sheet of three-quarter inch MDF sized out to fit the
machine. I’ve got it screwed to a supplementary wasteboard around where I’m going to be drilling
some holes. So I used the 46202-K quarter inch down cut bit to set those holes around the design
to make sure that I wouldn't run into anything. This wasteboard uses quarter 20 t-nuts to hold
everything down. There are a total of 261 pockets created here. These are the pockets for the t-nut
heads to sit into and you can see all of those getting cut out there. So you can see they fit
in really nicely just underneath the lip there. If you love this type of content be sure to
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I use the down cut action there to leave a nice clean top surface. This is a quarter
inch up-cut bit and that will do a much better job clearing out the chips. The MDF
likes to gum things up really bad so that definitely helps clear everything out and get
all of the holes nice and clean on the, what will be the top side. We got all those cut and then we
can get it all vacuumed off and then get the waste board unscrewed from the supplementary wasteboard.
So now all of that is done and we can get all the t-nuts installed. So basically all of these
need to be hammered in. You want to make sure that you're hammering them in below the surface of the
material. That way they won't affect the alignment or anything like that. So
there's definitely a lot to hammer in there but after all of that is done we can move
back to the CNC and remove that supplementary wasteboard as we won't need that any longer.
We want to make sure that everything is nice and clean underneath the wasteboard. That way
there's no, it's not going to mess with when we go to flatten anything or get anything else cut.
So we can get that reinstalled, and then I’m going to use the 55227 No-Mar Countersink set extremely
deep to get a really nice deep countersink and you can see just how deep that goes. That will allow
the screw head to sit well below the surface and it will allow me to flatten the wasteboard
without worrying about running into screws. So we can get that all vacuumed off again
after it's been secured down, and secure down our second piece of MDF. This is what we will
cut the fence from, so I’m just screwing it down into place where I know it won't be
affected by the design, and then using the same quarter inch up-cut bit we'll get all of the
fence holes cut since that's already in there. One of the biggest benefits of the up-cut bit
is that it leaves a perfectly clean bottom. So you can see that there's a nice through
hole and you can see the t-nut in there. So we'll switch back out for the 46202-k
and unfortunately I tried to get fancy with the editing there and messed up my z zero position,
so I ended up making a mistake here, um, and I had to reset the z zero and get everything set
correctly. So we're going to go ahead and cut the pockets in for where the bolt and washer will sit
through, to hold the fence to the wasteboard. So after that's cut I’m going to remove it one
more time to vacuum off anything underneath before we cut the actual fence piece. So that's all now
clean and then we can just use the quarter 20 bolt to install it onto the wasteboard.
So I didn't use a washer here because I hadn't flattened yet. This is fixed in the actual design
files. It was a little bit too thin so even if you didn't want to flatten the waste board,
that is fixed in there. So using the 46202-k we cut the actual fence part.
There's a little bit that's outside of the cutting area so I just used a multi-tool to cut that
flush. We'll deal with that here in just a little bit. So we can get that waste piece removed and
you can see that the fence is perfectly square. So this is something that you could do before
installing the wasteboard, but basically I’m going to be cutting the cam clamps for it. I’ll do that
using the same quarter inch down cut bit and a piece of three quarter inch Baltic birch plywood.
So basically it's going through, making a pocket, and then making a through hole,
and we will cut out the cam clamp design. This design is also all included in the plans
as well so you have everything that you need. This is going to illustrate why we need to flatten
a wasteboard. So I can get that pulled up and you can see the results here. So you can see
that it went through all the way on some of them but not on that top one. So that means that the
waste board is not perfectly flat. All of these were set to the exact same depth of cut so it
definitely causes a little bit of an issue there. I’ll use the multi-tool to cut through the tabs
and free them from the larger piece and then, moving over to the router table, use the MR-0110
mini roundover bit to flush trim those tabs and add a little bit of a roundover here just
to make that a little more comfortable. So I don't touch the face that will actually touch the piece,
just the parts that I will be touching. I want to make sure that that remains square. And we
can get that bolted to the wasteboard and you can see how that works. So this is just a quick
demo showing that and how it holds a work piece and it's super secure and really easy to use.
I wanted to demonstrate why flattening is important in this so I did create a little
bit more work for myself that's not fully necessary but uh anyways… So we're gonna
flatten it now. So I’m taking the fence back off and using the RC-2265 quarter inch shank
three wing flattening bit. This is an insert carbide bit and leaves a extremely clean cut.
So I demonstrated this too, you're probably going to want a dust boot for it as well.
But anyways you can see quite the mess that it created, so I went ahead and installed a
dust boot, and then I’m just using a sharpie to designate where is already been flattened.
It helps as a visual to see that. So once everything is nice and flat, there's very
little dust left with the dust boot on there, and you can see just how flat that is. There are some
lines created in there but they’re not ridges, those are just lines like mowing the grass, going
back and forth from climb to conventional cutting. So you can see that little piece that's left
over there. We're gonna take that off and deal with that on the table saw.
It's not absolutely necessary just something that I wanted to do to clean things up. So
I’m just cutting that all flush and then now the fence will overhang that just a little bit.
So I’m going to cut the fence flush as well. So I just got that bolted down and then you can see
everything's nice and flush there. Something I’ve always wanted to do
on wasteboards is paint that front face black, because it becomes a highlight spot,
so I went ahead and did that here. That way that's not an issue when filming. So I can get that
put back down. I removed the fence again and screwed all of the screws in underneath the fence,
installed the fence again and we're ready to go. I made sure everything was nice and square and
it definitely still is to the gantry. So you can see how this functions.
It's an extremely useful setup. Basically these can be positioned anywhere that you want. You
may need to use a little bit of a scrap piece there, just to make up any space, but it's really
easy to swap pieces in and out of. It's a great work holding system
and I’m sure you're going to enjoy it. So hopefully you guys enjoyed this video. We
will catch you guys back out here on the next one. Have a great day everybody. Stay safe out there.