G'day and welcome back to Buildsum and as you might be able to see we're back on the site
look at our piece of land here and today what I want to show you is a
step by step
build up of a
section through a brick veneer slab on ground
Building this is probably the most common method that they use in Sydney
currently with all the project homes that are being built
and it actually relies on being built on a level block of ground so a lot of jobs
first thing that'll happen is they come out and they level the site
with a grader,
bulldozer and grader and a laser level getting all nice
perfectly level and then they can start to build the house so first thing they have to do is
get the slab poured up, so they're going to
form up for the concrete slab
form up far so they can actually form the recess of this board here in
The slab to take the brickwork you'll see that as we build it up
then
Depending on how they do it most of them do a Waffle Pod
slab nowadays, so I'll put the membrane directly on the ground of course bringing it up the edge of the formwork
like such and
Then I'll put in their Waffle Pod. Which is just a roughly a metre by metre square block of foam and that
just fills in
or creates a void under the slab so we're not using as much concrete, but the
shape or the pattern that they're put in creates beams in between the slab which creates the strength and
they can champher the corners just to give you strength on the internal corner of the slab to then get the shear point
That's why method the other method is to
before you put the Membrane down put in
compacted hardcore fill
And what they normally do is just put this all the way through the site
And then they come back later and dig the beams in or the trenches in to this later on
Top of the fill because this has normally got some sharp rocks in it
I'll put a layer of blinding sand
Okay, so this helps you to get the top of the fill
down exactly level it also keeps it very smooth and it stops the
rocks from puncturing holes in the Membrane which we'll get our next
so your 200 micron
Polyethylene Membrane
Commonly called Forticon it goes across the top back down the end of the trench and back up on your formwork as well
Next step is the place your bar chairs and your reinforcement, so we have
reinforcements in the footing itself, so there's a cage there two layers of Trench mesh and
we also have a layer of mesh in the concrete slab okay all that will be designed
on your plans
by your structural engineer you won't have to worry about too much about what you actually put in there, but you have to have reinforcement
Once the reinforcement all been placed and inspected by the council or the private certifier
you can then pour your concrete slab and
there we go we've got our floor poured
After generally about a week is a good amount of time. You can strip the form work
of course you'll still have your
Moisture your Forticon, your membrane there you want to leave that
Intact as much as possible because eventually your backfill against here with with landscaping and topsoil
All right, so that's our floor down. So the next step then is to start our walls
So you put your wall in, course walls made up of your bottom plate
your
Common studs to go from top of the wall to the bottom of the wall
We have our noggins that go between our studs
This opening is a window. So we have a sill, a window sill and we have a Jamb stud directly against the window on
the other side
Here this one is similar to a common stud that it runs from top to bottom but again
It's associated with the window so it's referred to as a window stud and we have our lintel
Carrying the weight of the opening and our top plate
in most cases nowadays we would have then a ribbon plate and
Our trusses go on top of that
So we'll get our roof on or the frame up anyway
the next job then be to get your fascia on whether you use a timber Fascia or a metal fascia doesn't matter
Fascia goes in next and
The idea is to get the roof on as quick as possible
So you've got something to work under but then put our first couple of tile battens on
So the first pattern there you can see is a little bit bigger than the second one
It's called a Bellcast batten and what it does it kicks the first tile
So that the angle of the tile looks the same if you didn't kick the first tile
The first tile on the roof would look very flat, and it just wouldn't look right so you have a Bellcast batten
You should also have what I call an anti ponding board. This is just a piece of fibro
4.5mm fibro
Sits across the top of the first two battens and what that does it
supports
the sarking which goes on next and just
stops it from sagging near the gutter which means that any moisture that runs down here
Well, then once it gets to here will definitely run off
into the gutter
then our tile battens to take our Roof and
Our roof tiles go on there
So that's the first
stage of
the Brick veneer sub on ground
section in the next video. I'll take you through the actual bringing up the Brickwork and
finishing all that off and the how the insides fitted out