Hi, I'm Mike Corliss with Tormach.
Today I am going to show you how to square up a block of hardened S7 on a surface grinder.
This block is hardened to approximately 57 rockwell.
What we're going to do is grind the sides, the faces parallel on the surface grinder
and then what we will do it put it in a tooling vise, indicate in the edge and then grind then grind the edges square to the faces.
I just like to hit that with my stone and knock off any high spots,any scale, anything like that.
When I wipe off the magnet I always use my hand and then wipe my hand off.
You don't want to use a rag.
Because what happens is if you use a rag you will be wiping it off and it will get sucked up into the wheel.
So always just use your hand on the grinder.
Now I set the travel limits for the X here.
We'll go through all of them but we will just start with just this step over here.
What this is going to do is travel in X, when it hits the end of the travel then it is going to step over in Y and then go back in X and it is just going to step like that.
The next one it is only going to step over on one end.
And the last one is the constant traverse. As it is feeding in X it will also be feeding in Y. It will be just like the picture it will zigzag across with no step over, it just constantly feeds back and forth.
When the light is lit you can't start the feeds. It means align the proximity switch.
So now that the lights are off now I can start it.
Now that we have the faces ground, we'll plant the tool vise and square up two edges to those faces.
Check it with my indicator to make sure it's square, yeah that looks good.
We'll grind this edge first, then we'll tip it up and grind this.
Then we know these two sides will be squared will be square to each other as well as being square to the faces.
Why do you do it on an angle?
Why I do an angle, I don't want to have it square with the machine just because then you got all the forces trying to push the part out of the vise...
and I don't want it to be exactly perpendicular to the machine because then it just takes longer to grind.
So I kind of just split the difference and go about 45...
and you got the wheel force pushing against the back of the vise so it shouldn't slip on you...
...but you still have a little bit of an angle so you don't have to travel as far in Y to clear the whole part.
Okay, to touch the wheel off I am going to switch into plunge grind so I get the table to move back and forth.
Bring the wheel down.
Okay, we just sparked with the wheel so I am going to stop the travel.
See how this light lights up when I bring the table out. I am just going to jog it off until that is off.
And then we will use the constant travel.
Now that we have the block squared up to both faces and two of the sides are squared up to those faces.
What I could do is either flip the block like this on the vise and repeat what I just did...
...or you can use 123 blocks with the side you ground square on the vise down against the magnet and then support it with 123 blocks to keep it from tipping over.
Like that or the end you can do the same way because you know these sides are square to everything.
So you can just hold it on a magnet and finish your grinding for size.
You wouldn't need one on the other end?
Typically you don't but you could also but it up against one, if you have another 123 block.
It kind of depends on how big your part is...
because parts don't usually lift up, they'll slide but if it has enough the magnet can get a good grip on it you really don't need one on the end.
It won't hurt anything...
...but I usually just block up parts that are tall and clamp them like that.
Cool, alright that is how you square up a block on the grinder.