this is making me feel like you could take this
whole video and turn it into like a banging swimsuit diy
this video is sponsored by birch living hello welcome back to my channel if you've been
here before you know that i often am cloning clothes taking something that i already own
copying its size and shape because then it's kind of guaranteed to fit you and once you change the
color the materials the little flourishes that you add and take away the exact same fit can
look like a totally different garment but one of the most common questions i have on those videos
is how to cologne when it's like not flat like there's darts or something a little more
complicated such as i have this second-hand ingrid and isabelle dress that i got and it looks simple
but literally the more i wear it the more i'm like this dress has things going on actually i just got
a pair of glasses that i feel like makes this hold on a second i just got an idea who am i oh wait
okay now who am i please drop your favorite ally wong quotes down in the comment section
essentially a knit dress is just a giant sock for your body you may have all these different curves
and shapes like if we imagine you to be like a bar graph and the knit dress just kind of creates like
a smooth line the trend of your overall body shape a quick debrief on normal knit dresses
typically when you construct a knit dress you just have the green line running vertically so that the
horizontal direction is the greatest direction of stretch in a basic knit dress if you want
to incorporate ruching you'd usually merge it with the side seam just to make manufacturing
a little bit easier for these reasons i find this dress to be very interesting first of all
this is also not on or doing anything but instead of a consistent vertical grain line the front of
this dress changes direction drastically up here it starts at 45 degree angle here it
straightens out to go vertical and then down at the bottom it goes to a 45 but opposite the first
45. this little side hip strip those of you who are here for the last video remember that phrase
the hip strip starts vertical somehow manages to turn horizontal right about here does the 180 and
ends up vertical again just opposite vertical from the top oh and also the ruching is not merged with
the side seams i think the outcome is that this just has a ton of extra fabric so if we go back to
your body being this bar graph now it has all this extra fabric to like hug every little bit of your
changes in curves and whatnot so if you're in the mood for showing off this is going to be a fun
pattern for you to make hope you guys are glad that i stick to sewing tutorials and not stand
up comedy today we're going to clone this dress which will give us opportunities to show how to
take something complicated like ruching and expand it into the original pattern form i also feel like
this is a great starting point to incorporate some fashion trends that i've been seeing on instagram
like this type of inspo the layers the swiss cheese it's very cool hopefully merging these
ideas i can make another dress that i love as much as this one we're going to start with using the
flat garment as a guide for the final goal size of the front julia helped me out with marking the
seams on the paper then she connected them with straight and curved rollers before cutting out
this front pattern here's where you bring back the garment to use those grain lines as a guide
all these lines that she's adding show the gradual changes in grain line direction and like i tried
to show you you can almost see that 180 rotation from top to bottom then all you got to do is some
good ol slash and spread you're going to cut along all of those grain line guides then reposition
them so they're all aligned perpendicular to the edge of a fresh piece of paper
all the other pattern pieces in this dress are pretty straightforward job of tracing and adding
seam allowance but with the two front pieces you should get this oh so exciting slug creation
thing time to cut it out and see if it works buy one oh you have to stay away i have sharp
scissors
good morning it's a new day the fabric is cut i'm just jumping in here to talk about this video
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thank you birch living for helping me have a restful night's sleep now it's time to assemble
i'm not 100 on the right plan of attack but i think
i'm going to sew the front large piece to that front little hip strip let's call it that again
i feel like that went pretty well i'm like literally trying it on like this to get a sense
time for a little internal investigation so this is the dress that we're copying and when i flip
the ruched seam inside out can you guys see that little like caramel colored
ribbon i think that is what's providing the stability so that
there's no stretch on here and the amount that is ruched is just like locked in so i could take
a ribbon measure how long i want the final gathered length to be and then use that as a
goal for gathering i've put in a long straight stitch i'm just going to start gathering it
up and the goal is to stop once it's the same length as this piece of bias tape
she's gathered this bias tape here is just going to encase the whole thing so that it's comfortable
and is hidden away and hopefully is the exact right length that i'm aiming for
all right well that's a finished front gonna join it right sides together at the shoulders with the
back okay i also went ahead and sewed the sides right sides together and also folded the sleeves
in half right sides together did a straight stitch right there now just got to take the armholes
slide the sleeves in to fit and sew it right sides together i'm also switching it up
from straight stitch to lightening stitch simply because now you're working in a direction of
stretch so you want to do a stitch that is more stretch friendly we've been doing a lot of knits
lately but yeah this is the lightning stitch i've been using if you have a zigzag that's fine but
lightning is just a little bit more clean feeling on track feeling on track okay you
can see my belly over there assessment how are we doing well i'm going to take in some fabric
here at the sleeve just so that it's a slimmer fit around my wrist i did purposefully cut these
sleeves to be extra long because i wanted to create a bit of like a thumb loop thing this is
also the right time while it's on you to draw any of the cutouts that you might want to add don't
do cutouts while it's lying flat you want to see how it looks truly on your own body i don't know
if you guys can see but i have a little oval cut out here i almost don't want to cut it out
but i want to stay committed to the tutorial and lots of hemming neck hole sleeves the bottom of
the dress last night i took the back pattern and i tried to draw a design for the cut out
layer i'm only going to add a layer to the back because i feel like the front has a lot going on
with the brushing i use the faith bodysuit as a guideline so we've got like one shoulder coming
up here swings over to below the armpit then we've got a cutout here i feel like it looks nice for it
to at least reach the middle of your back so up here and it comes down here and then this bottom
one is our longest most webby one honestly this is such a free-form moment so please
go crazy with whatever you wanted to after drawing the design i just threw down this dotted line
that's about a centimeter away from the design for some seam allowance and to preserve the pattern
you can just fold the excess out of the way and use the dotted line to trace and here's how the
finished cutout looks i'm pretty happy with how it appears flat eager to see how it looks
constructed onto the whole thing but all the edges that line up with the original dress like this one
this one this one this one are all going to get tucked into the dress and then the
remaining curved edges all need to be finished off i think i'm going to do the exact same
fold-over elastic method so it has a nice sturdy finish i've got the elastic set up right here
first stitch i'm super super into this stitch that i've been using so much
more lately it's like a regular zigzag but see how it has three tiny stitches
for each zag instead of just boom boom boom boom boom the best thing about that
is dramatically reduced risk of skipped stitches i discovered this by simply actually reading
my sewing manual it's number five and you can see it's a broken zigzag and i love it
segway i'm trying to show peoples the progress
i'm so happy with how smooth it looks okay here's i don't know let's call it artistic direction
it's exactly as according to plan i feel like i barely have enough time to celebrate a step that
went well before i start stressing about the next step hopefully this layout makes easier to see
what's going on but i just gotta undo a little bit of this top shoulder seam this side seam here
this side seam here this side seam here and then tuck this layer in if i may say so myself it looks
so good this is making me feel like you could take this whole video and turn it into like a
banging swimsuit diy the cutout and the layer kind of come very close at the shoulder so i think i
will actually cut out and finish the hole before i attach the layer in case it's not clear in the
time lapse i'm just coming in here and seam ripping apart all the places where the insert
is going to go in there's a little pencil mark for the beginning pencil mark for the end slide
it in and just close it up from inside out just like if you were closing the side seam regularly
i think we were in the ice cream section and make a selection
letting it go
i'm very curious let me know in the comments how closely you think i was able to hit the
mark with replicating that leopard print dress ali wong if you have a third baby and
want to hit me up for another tour outfit let me know when it came to the thumbs i just held the
raw edges open sewed a skinny little rectangle slid it open inside and thumbs are good i feel
like i can't even begin to elaborate for you all the different creative ways you could take the
techniques in this video so if you make anything inspired by this with cutouts or with different
layers or with the ruching please please tag me made with wendy so i can find it and love it
i will post more photos of me in this crazy grinch outfit on my instagram with wendy and don't forget
to subscribe hit the notification hope you guys are well i'll see you all in the next video bye
also if you make this it's vaccine friendly