Hello again, Guy from Midwinter Minis here. In this episode I'm going to show
you how to speed paint the Ork barricades and scrap terrain found in the
Speed Freeks box game and the Ork Mekboy Workshop. This whole process only
takes a couple of hours, so you can have tabletop ready terrain pieces in no time.
In my opinion, the models seems really nice. There's lots of details taken from the
new Ork vehicle kits as well as vents and electronics from the Ryza Ruins
set. My set is from the Speed Freeks box, but you receive the same sprue in both
sets, just in a different color. First things first, we'll need to take
these six models off the sprue. Using your clippers cut nice and close to the
sprue with the flat edge of the blades on the side of the model. These are big
chunks of plastic so have lots of contact points to clip. Next, use your
hobby knife to trim off any sprue connections that aren't flush with the
model surface. This particular set doesn't seem to have big problems with
mould lines but you can remove any obvious lines with the tip or back of
the blade by just generally running it along them. To make sure the barricade
stands straight and don't wobble, run the bottom edge along a file a few
times. Now we've got the boring prep work out of the way we can see what we're
dealing with. The set contains one small junk pile
one medium junk pile
and one large junk pile
as well as a small barricade
a medium barricade
and a large barricade. To lay the foundation for our paint, make everything
more durable, and enrich the colors we'll use, we're going to prime the models with
Halfords Grey primer. It was dark and rainy when I primed these at my back
door so I didn't film it... so umm... star wipe! Make sure to catch these models from the
sides and from below too as there's lots of detail to cover. Next we'll do a
top-down zenithal highlight of Halfords white plastic primer. This will do a
little bit of pre highlighting for us so the colors on the top will be a bit
richer than those at the bottom.
While I was priming these I also noticed some little bits of sprue in the windows
and door on the barricades a little snip and fixed... not annoying at all. We're
going to add two vibrant colors to the models, first we'll pick out certain
panels with Vallejo medium blue. I'm using an airbrush for super speed, but a
paint brush will work just as well. Just make sure you have a nice large brush
and thin your paints a little before applying. We are not looking for accuracy
or neatness at this stage, just pick out some of the vehicle panels and walls
that you want to be blue and paint them. Easy.
Here's the set so far with just the blue
Don't paint everything is you want to leave some things for the next color
which will be red. Same thing is the blue, basically just thin your paints and pick
out the rest of the vehicle bits and metal panels that you want to be red.
... and here's how it looks so far. Like a really shonky Union Jack. Now we're going
to create some base layers for the silvery and bronze metallics first we
use Vallejo Model Air Burnt Umber to you undercoat the parts we want to be
bronze. Pick out whatever details you want, but if you like something to be
silver leave it for the moment
while I was doing the stage I noticed another couple of sprue bits linking the
girders on the large barricade. No biggie, just snip them off and hopefully they'll
disappear into a parallel universe like this one did. Here's how everything looks
so far. Next we're going to use Vallejo Black to define all the areas we want
to be silver, and of course anything we want to be black or grey like the tyres.
You can also use the black to establish any shadows and the recesses if you want
And here's what we have so far. I've intentionally left a few sections of the
primer showing through just to give a bit of tonal variation to the finished
model.
Next up we're going to basecoat our silver parts with Citadel 's Leadbelcher.
Well, that's what I thought anyway... let me show you something
Here's a part of their old Boltgun Metal paint, perfect after eight years...
and here's a two year old pot Leadbelcher. A dried-up coagulated mess. Absolute garbage.
If you're starting out, don't waste your money on Citadel Paints. The
current paint pots are absolutely awful and you'll only get a couple of years
out of them at best. It won't even come out if I shake it!
I didn't want to waste my precious Boltgun Metal on terrain, so I mixed a glob
of that Leadbelcher with some water and added some Vallejo aluminium to bring
them back to life.
Use your silver color to paint the metal sheets, nuts, bolts, engine parts and
anything else you want to be silver.
Here's how it looks so far
For our final base coat we're going to use Citadel's Gehennas' Gold. It should be
obvious, but anything you'd like to be a dirty bronze color, base coat it with
this gold.
now this is the last base coat so if you don't want something to be a dirty
off-white, paint up now. And here's how everything looks before it goes for its
big bath!
... and here comes the fun bit time to dunk everything in the DIY dip wash.
In my next video I'll teach you how to make this versatile dip wash and show you
some ways you can use it so make sure to subscribe so you don't miss out.
If you simply can't wait, Citadel Agrax Earthshade or Army
Painter Strong Tone will work just fine.d Dip each model into the wash and use a
big brush to make sure the wash gets into all the recesses. Once you're happy
you've got good coverage, use a large dry brush to absorb the excess wash in the
big panels and flat surfaces and wick away any wash that's pooling too much.
Once you're done set the models on something they won't stick to and wait
for them to dry. I let these models dry overnight and as
you can see they're really starting to look the part. The wash is dulled down
the vibrant colors and brought everything together tonally, the metallics
and painted panels look genuinely dirty like a warzone scrap pile should. If you
wanted to you can call it a day here: a quick evenings work drying overnight and
ready to game the next day. If you've got a bit more patience there are a few easy
things we can do to quickly add some more detail and punch to the paint job.
First we'll use Citadel Lothern Blue to make the blue panels more vibrant and
highlight some raised detail using a large dry brush grab a bit paint and
start to work it into a piece of kitchen paper until barely any blue comes off
the brush now start wiping your brush back and forth across the blue areas
making sure to catch the edges. You can also make circular motions on any large
flat areas to enhance the color.
Pay little attention and try not to catch red black silver or bronze areas
with the blue
And here's what the whole set looks like after the little blue touch up. Now we'll
do the same for the red areas using Vallejo Orange fire. Follow the same
process we just did for the blue but focus on the red areas of the model.
Nice and easy, and pretty effective
Following the pattern we're now going to highlight the black areas with Citadel's
Mechanicus Standard Grey. We'll use this color to give the tyres a bit of tonal
variation and highlight. Hit some tyres more than others to make them seem more
or less worn, this is also a good way to cover up any spots where you've
accidentally hit the tires with silver or gold from the previous steps.
Here's what it looks like after the grey dry brush
Next we're going to use Vallejo Charred Brown to fix up any areas where the
colors have spilled over into the wrong area for example you can see where I've
gone way over into the blue area while painting these guns, no problem, use a
standard brush to apply the brown along the edge of the panel line. When it dries
it'll look like dirt build up rather than a sloppy speed paint job. Look
around each model and find parts you'd like to tidy up, slap a bit brown on it,
Job done. Easy.
Sorted. We'll also run some brown paint into the recesses of the metal sheets
Make sure you get it right in, and use your finger to wipe away the excess
paint on the surface to make it look brighter than the recesses
here's what the whole set looks like now he's tidy things up with the brown
I also use this brown to paint the lightbulb cable on the large barricade.
Next we'll create metal chipping and damage effects using Vallejo aluminium.
Get some paint on your palette and using a bit of packing or kitchen sponge
dab the paint.
Now start gently tapping the sponge against the models, try to imagine where
things would have hit the metal parts and chipped the paint or scratched away the
dirt. Don't go overboard, go bit by bit and stay well away from the tyres.
Make sure to hit the bronze areas too, highlighting with gold won't work as
well so just use the silver. And here's what we have so far looking good let's
do a couple of final bits just to add some lighter focus areas. Using Citadel's
screaming skull we'll block in the parts we want to be off-white. I thinned the paint
a little and I'm going to add it to the Ork symbol and the light bulbs. Take your
time and just gently trace the edges, and fill in the gaps
Don't worry if the paint runs off the edges we'll fix this later
This particular paint is really delicate and will definitely need two thin coats
Once that's dried will add some thinned white to highlight these parts I'm using
Vallejo white but you can obviously use any white acrylic you like. Paint the
bottom of the bulbs and leave the top third so that the screaming skull shows
through. I also traced a couple of the edges on
the Ork symbol and left it to dry. And next, we'll tidy things up using a bit of
Citadel's Agrax Earthshade. Paint the recesses of the Ork symbol and all the
nuts and bolts that hold it in place.
Once this is dry, I think we can actually call it a day. Overall I'm pretty
satisfied with this paint job; in the space of two evenings we've got six
fairly detailed terrain pieces painted up to a nice tabletop standard. If you
wanted to spend a bit more time you could obviously do some more vibrant
edge highlighting as well as picking out the metallic spikes and panels on the
tyres. Batch painting like this really saves you a huge amount of time too,
I definitely recommend doing all six pieces at the same time. The sculpts are
really nice too, compliments where they're due, Games Workshop put out some really great models
and they're actually pretty affordable by their standards. The paint
pots are terrible, but their models are great.
Let me know what you think in the comments, if you have any suggestions I'd
love to hear them. While I've got you here, check out some of these awesome
paint jobs from Rick Painting Models; he followed my speed painting sandstone
necrons tutorial and to be honest I think he did a better job than me. They
look awesome, also in a weird coincidence he also collects Guardians of the
Covenant Space Marines, which is the same chapter I collect. What are the chances?
Anyway, I hope you've enjoyed this video. Bye for now!