Today we have celebrity guest Holly of Drabs2Fabs
in Smithfield, Utah. Holly won Best Use of Multiple Products in General Finishes’ 2015
Design Challenge with her glazed piece done in Persian Blue Milk Paint. Holly is joining
us to demonstrate how she applies GF Glaze Effects, clearly a specialty of hers. Holly,
Welcome – we are so thrilled to have you here.
Thank you! It's been so fun to be here and
it's been great. Their place is like a five-star resort. I think my husband's probably going
to be staying here.
Yeah, I noticed he canceled his air reservations
last night.
In this demo, Holly is going to be glazing this accent table.
And the top has been sanded down to bare wood with 120 followed by 150 grit sandpaper. It
was finished with 1 coat of Java Gel Stain and 3 coats of our new water based topcoat,
Flat Out Flat.
The base of the table has been cleaned with a scotch brite pad and a 50:50 mix of denatured
alcohol and water. Then we scuff-sanded with a 220 sanding pad. ALWAYS prep existing finishes
to remove years of dirt and grime and oil from hands – you will have a better result.
Check out our video on prepping for an existing finish.
Now I am going to show you the finishing schedule for this piece.
First we sprayed on two coats of Holiday Red Milk Paint. After letting each coat dry for
three hours, we buffed with a 220 sanding pad and removed the dust.
Because we wanted a smooth, clean application of glaze, we put on 1 coat of High Performance
Satin topcoat - any sheen will work – let it dry, and buff it lightly with a well-used
220 sanding pad. Applying a layer of topcoat first will create a barrier between the paint
and the glaze, allowing the glaze to just glide on and giving you more control of the
color.
The supplies needed are: dusting cloths, shop
towels, gloves, Extender, foam brushes and synthetic brushes. We are in love with these
new Krex brushes from Chalk Supply. They are awesome!
Yeah, they don’t shed. They hardly flare.
They last a long time and they clean up fast. They are a great investment.
We mixed our Van Dyke Brown Glaze Effects with 10% Extender to increase the open time.
Always use Extender if you are going to be working on a large surface or in low humidity.
The next step will be to apply the glaze to achieve one of these final looks.
Holly, let’s cover the table top to protect it while we're working on it.
Okay, I got this side. I think we are ready
to go.
Alright so I am going to finish knocking down
the finish on this table so that the glaze can stick a little bit better. We have already
sanded down these other two and the base as well. Just take a 220 sanding pad and just
take off some of that sheen. This has already been done and then we're gonna take the dusting
cloth and just dust off the dust that's left.
It doesn't matter too much because you are going to be glazing and wiping off anyways.
Always use gloves, if you like your fingernails. Another tip, if your gloves are too big for
you, you can take some tape and tape around your wrists because that will help hold them
on a little bit better. So I am going to take my brush and just... actually I am going to
tip this table over first so I have better access to the base here. Take your brush and
dip it in your glaze. You don't want it too thick but thick enough that you can make sure
and get it into all these cracks. For this demonstration I am not going to leave it on
too thick. I kind of prefer a little bit cleaner look where it just accents the grooves.
So I am just going to work in a section at a time here, making sure that it's in all
the cracks. Good! So, I brush it on, come in here and wipe it off. Like we showed earlier,
you can leave as much on or as little on as you like. With these tables it is a little
bit more tricky because you've got so many angles. Luckily this one's small enough that
I can move it around. Okay, so there's that part. Set my gloves down. Here we go some
more. Just flip it around. If you were on a bigger table, then you probably wouldn't
have it upside down first-off. You might have to get underneath it and if you do have to
get underneath it, you might need a light. So that's something to consider. So I am just
making sure that it's in all these cracks here. If it's not, you can go back and brush
it in later. You could even get a small brush to brush it in with. I kind of like to go
around it like this because I don't want to accidentally wipe it out completely. So I
like to circle around it a little bit like this. This glaze is awesome, it just works
so well. It sticks where it needs to stick and it's not hard to wipe it off. Okay, so
now that I have got this bottom part I am actually gonna do the underside of these legs
while it's upside down too. I will just brush it on there just because sometimes you get
somebody who likes to pick their table up and look underneath. So I am just doing that
so I don't have to try to get my brush under there later. Now that that's done, I am going
to flip it back up and try not to touch where you've already used with your dirty gloves
or where you've already glazed. I am going to do one leg at a time here. I am going to
try not to put my hair in the glaze.
I am going to put something right under here
so you can go right down to the tabletop.
I am just going to brush it on.
Anywhere there is a crack, make sure that it has glaze in it. Okay, so I brushed that
on. You can open your shop towel. I am not a big person to keep it looking pretty. I
kind of just wad it up and find a place that doesn't have glaze to wipe it off. When I
am wiping here, I kind of wipe carefully because you want to leave the glaze in the cracks
and not wipe it out. This table leg doesn't have a lot of place for the glaze to sit,
which is fine for this piece because I am kind of going for a cleaner look anyways with
the highlighted.
Holly it's really starting to look good!
It's awesome huh? I love it! Red has to be
my favorite color I think to glaze to. It just looks so sharp when it's done. Turn it
around a little bit and make sure I got this whole top. Wipe all the way around it like
that. Whoops! I got this leg. Be careful when you're
glazing if you got glaze on your rag sometimes it can come and leave a big streak somewhere.
So, I have gone through and I can see that I don't see any big clumps or anything that
looks weird. Sometimes I will even have my husband, who works for me, come in and take
a look and make sure that he doesn't see anything that I might have missed.
Holly, I think it is just about perfect!
Thank you!
This is a very light glazing with very fine
detailing. If you want a dirtier look, you can apply more glaze, wipe less off and one
trick is to not seal the paint with topcoat before you start. Go right on the paint. The
last trick is always seal in the color. After the glaze has dried 2-4 hours, we will apply
3 coats of water based Flat Out Flat topcoat allowing 3 hours between each coat. Here’s
how the finished table looks.
Holly, Thanks for joining us.
Thanks for having me!
You can find Holly’s work online at utahpaintedcabinets.com
and on her Facebook page.
TARA’S TIPS: - General Finishes Glaze Effects are only
for indoor projects. - Always seal glaze with topcoat.
- Dry-time to touch: 2 to 4 hours. - Dry-time to recoat: 12 hours.
- Dry time for light use: 7 to 10 days. - Cure time: 21 to 30 days.
- Our finishes are engineered to be compatible with each other. Test to your satisfaction
when using with other brands.
For more glazing techniques, check out our other product demos linked at the end of this
video.