Hey, welcome to part 2 of the steampunk shoulder armor tutorial pattern tutorial...
tutorial. I am still wearing my mechanical arm because I love it and I'm
allowed to, because this is my basement. If you haven't already watched part 1
there's a link in the description below or in the upper right hand corner
but other than that let's just get making.
Alright so I'm gonna start by
adding fancy bits and pieces to the main torso piece but before I start on that
I'm gonna heat up the pauldron and the pauldron flappy bit, wrap them with some
cling wrap so they stay really curled up and want to stay curled up for the rest
of their life. They can just hang out like that while I'm working on the other
part. Grab a piece of corrugated plastic tubing from the sky and cut three pieces
that fit between the edge of the nut and the edge of the circle, which for the
medium-sized pattern is 25 millimeters long. Now you can use a pair of scissors
to cut each piece in half. The position of these tubing pieces will be fairly
important when we add the wire so try to line them up as shown here. If you run a
straight edge from the upper left tube it should create a line parallel to the
top line of the kinda rectangular piece. Once you're happy with the positioning,
glue the tubing down, being careful not to use too much glue because it's pretty
hard to clean up on the outside of those tubes. And now you can glue the center
nut. Grab that pen you almost threw away but didn't, take out the inside pen bit
and mark the case every two and a half centimeters. Oh actually you're gonna
need two pens to get enough pieces. Now cut along the marks. I like to use a
tubing cutter for this because it makes a nice straight cut and it also rounds
off the ends beautifully. Push your little pen pieces into their tubes,
leaving 20 millimeters sticking out, then use super glue to glue them down onto
the foam. Piece 24 is made the right size for if
you didn't have those pen pieces sticking out but since we do we need to
stretch it all the way around. That way we'll have enough extra length to go
over the pens. Now glue it down, section by section, forming it around each of the
pens. Glue the last three pen pieces equally
spaced in the not-quite rectangular box. We probably need a strap to hold down
those sensitive components so let's glue down piece 37. I use the end of a ruler
to jam it down in between the pens. Okay let's wire this contraption up.
The wire I'm using is old telephone wire but
you can use whatever you can get your hands on. This process can be a bit of
trial and error but basically it involves bending the wire to follow the
path you want it to go and then gluing it down with superglue. As they say a
picture's worth a thousand words so rather than trying to explain where
every wire goes I'll just let you sit back and watch.
(funky music)
If you find yourself struggling to get the bends in the right places it can
often be helpful to draw the path on the foam first and then bend your wire to
follow it.
(more funky music)
All right your fancy wires should be all glued. Now it's time to go back to the
foam bits. Piece 29 gets glued over the end of that wire there, then piece 30
here and here. A couple 12 millimeter discs cut out and stacked on top of each
other make a great screw head to go on top of the nut. Cut two parallel lines
partway down through the foam disk then connect the cuts across the bottom and
then you've got a nice slot for your screwdriver when you need to tighten up
that nut if it gets loose. Now cut 10 more 12 millimeter disks and glue each
one in the center of a piece 23, which then gets a six millimeter hole punched
in the its center. Glue five of those disks over the holes you punched in the
neck guard and the other five on the shoulder armor piece directly across from each
neck disc. Now's a good time to add some fake rivets to each disk using your pen.
See if you can find an old power cord that no one would mind if it got
completely destroyed and cut five 5 centimeter lengths. Give them each a good
sharp bend so they stay a little bit curved and use super glue to glue them
into the disks. Piece 31 gets glued on to the back and a whole bunch of fake
rivets get made all over the place. I even use the back of my pen for one
piece just to change it up. And, because you can never have too many rivets, I'm
gonna make my favorite type of rivets using five-minute two-part epoxy. Squirt
out equal parts of epoxy, mix it super duper well and use a match head to
apply a small drop wherever you want a rivet. This technique does take a bit of
practice and has been known to be frustrating for some people so use at
your own risk of frustration. I used these rivets on the top of the neck
guard, on the corner pieces, on the little tab things, and right...here. To finish it
off we probably need some six millimeter screw heads around the ring that holds
the power station device in place. Don't want that to fall out - lose all your
power to your shoulder. Okay onto the pauldron. Piece 13, piece number seven,
piece 15, a cute little grill, piece 14 on top of piece 13, piece 8 on top of piece
7, piece 9 on top of piece 8, piece 10 and 11 on top of piece 7 and
piece 12 on top of piece 8 and 11. Now take piece 22 and stretch out the
center a bit. You can just use your hands or if you happen to have a knee you
could use that too. Apply glue up the middle section and glue it into place,
centered along the center line of the pauldron. Now glue down the sides, trying
to keep it as smooth as possible. Glue down piece 16, leaving about a 10
millimeter gap between it and the rim around the pauldron. Glue pieces 17, 18
and 20 on top of piece 16, and 19 on top of piece 18. The fan blade thing gets
jammed in the hole so that it domes outward and looks really cool. Pressing
down a little bit in the middle helps it not look too pointy. Glue it in with some
superglue. 39, 39 and 39 line up nicely right here. A little v cut in a leftover
piece of edging allows it to cover up the top pauldron seam. Glue the ends of
piece 26 together to form a little tube. That tube gets glued down to piece 27,
centered as best as possible. Use a very small amount of glue to glue the cover
piece down to the side of the cylinder in four equally spaced places. Next, apply
glue to one of the unglued sections and work it down against the side of the
tube with your fingers. The look we're going for here is a metal cap that's
been crimped down over top of the tube so we're happy with a few little ripples and
bumps. Again if you don't want to burn yourself use a glue gun set at a low
temperature. Repeat this process for the other three sections and you've got a
neat little capped housing for your burner coil, which we're gonna make right
now with two strips of foam 45.5 centimeters long - one 17 millimeters
wide and the other 9 millimeters wide. Glue one on top of the other, lining up
one of the long edges. I'm gonna paint mine with a bit of red and a bit of
black to give it a kind of hot element vibe. We're gonna need to paint both
sides but try not to paint the lower portion of the strip because that's
where we're gonna be applying the glue. Once the paint is dry, roll it up like a
little cinnamon bun and glue it. It'll be a bit tricky to paint the front of the
housing later with the coil installed so I might as well do it now. I also added
a bit of brass accent to the coil for some extra zing and a 12 millimeter disc
to cover the centre. Push the coil into the housing and glue the housing onto
the shoulder armor. Note that the housing is not placed in
the center of piece 22 but more towards the front. Glue some nine millimeter
disks here here here here and here, and some six millimeter
disks here here here and here. Also all around here. And we might as well just go
crazy and make them all into screw heads. Hopefully you're not tired of cutting
discs yet because we need twelve more 12 millimeter discs which get
9 millimeter discs glued on top of them. These go here here here here here here
here here here here here and here. Now give them each a really good poke with a
pen so that we can stick our wire in them. We'll also cut some little slots in
the top of the three piece 39s for the same reason, and now it's time to get
funky with some wires.
(funky music plays)
And that's the wires. We just need to pretend to hold them down with some
little tabs like number 40 here and number 30 here here and here. Add some
fake rivets with your pen and some more fake rivets with some epoxy and a match.
Don't forget that the little flappy bit for the pauldron needs some fake rivets
too. Right now your shoulder armor looks a bit like a clown suit so be sure to make the
most of it before you get out your paint. Start by painting it with black artists
acrylic paints. I like to give it three coats of black paint so the paint really
fills in the pores of the foam and gives me a nice smooth non-porous surface when
it comes time to apply the metallics. Once your three coats are dry, put on a
rubber glove and grab your metallic paints. I'm using Basics Bronze for all
the background color. Take a tiny bit of paint and then spread it out on the
cardboard until there's almost none on your finger and then rub it on the foam.
The great thing is that because your finger is shaped like a finger it
doesn't apply the paint right to the edges which is actually a good thing
when you're trying to make it look like old oxidized metal. In the places where
my fingers can't reach I use a tiny amount of paint on a brush and apply it
mainly down the center so it fades off to each side. If you end up rubbing paint
in places you shouldn't be rubbing, it's easy enough to go back with some black
and cover it up. Next I'll pull out my Deco Art Americana Decor Metallics
paints which I'm using thanks to Deco Art's Helping Artists Program. The first
color I'm going to use is Vintage Brass.
Right now my favorite silver color is actually a 50/50 mix of Deco Art
Metallics Pewter and their Silver.
Now grab an old belt, cut it in two and glue one end to the front and the other
to the back. Obviously you're gonna want to try it on first before you start
gluing to make sure the straps are gonna line up the best way for your body. I
made sure to give the belt and the foam a quick sand with some coarse sandpaper
to give the hot glue something to grip on. Glue a piece of elastic inside the
flappy bit to keep it attached to your arm and then install the hinge rivets as
per my other video.
And all that's left is to attach the pauldron with a piece
of webbing and some glue.
All right, super cool shoulder. Just so you know there's
three sizes to the armor pattern - there's a large, medium and small. This is the
medium so the large is bigger the small is smaller and if you want to get your
hands on the shoulder armor pattern I'll have links here at the end of the video as well as in
the description. Okay so maybe some of you are wondering what will this look
like on a female body and I don't have a lot of female bodies in my house but I
do have one right here. (swoosh sound) It's my wife Lorinda. So I asked her to
try it on and this is what it looks like. This is a size small. It's not finished - I
just glued this on here for now, that's why it's kind of coming off there, but it
gives you a little bit of an idea what the pattern will look like on a female
torso. And this is the medium on a bit of a larger lady and so that's how that
looks on a hard bodied female.
However I do realize that there are lots of different
sizes and shapes of people so if you make the pattern and find you have to do
some alterations to get it to fit please let me know and I will update the
pattern to have a female torso version as well so that everyone can be happy
and have something that fits them easily and awesomely.
Thanks for watching. See ya.
And don't forget the armor pattern, wherever it is, and also if you haven't seen the
mechanical arm video and want to make that (makes mechanical sounds)
you could do that too by clicking a
link in the description.
The end.