It's always important to wear appropriate eye protection to protect your eyes from debris flying out of your saw.
So let's get started.
I have my abrasive saw here, and we're gonna show you what happens when we cut on an abrasive.
Now you get to see all the slag that's left over that formed.
You could not get a nut on here. You'd have to get a unibur, file it down, or grind it to make it work.
That's what you're gonna get out of an abrasive unit.
I'm just going to line it up first. Okay, that's perfect. Then I'm going to tighten it down so it doesn't move around.
Gotta get it nice and tight so that the material is really down.
Now I'm going to start it and we're going to cut through this.
It's nice, it's clean, just look at that. Beautiful. Let me grab a nut.
So I didn't even have to do anything other than cut it to get this nut on.
No chamfering...absolutely amazing. No cleanup. Beautiful.
What I've learned is that cutting a piece of steel like this, like we showed you in our last video.
Cuts through steel, structural steel, large sizes of steel I-beams with no problem.
I also use this saw to cut some metal track and studs and, even though it did a pretty good job,
it seemed to want to catch the edges.
This is thin metal, 22 gauge, and it seemed to want to catch the edges.
So it does work however it tends to grab the material. Maybe it's the blade I have to change...
...but I'll let you know as I go along using this saw.
What I've established is: track you can cut and studs you can cut.
If you have thicker heavier gauge stud, you should have absolutely no problems cutting it.
The thinner gauges is a problem.
Cutting threaded rod of this size, this is half-inch 13 threaded rod, about 3 feet long, is perfectly fine.
It makes a nice and clean finish. You're all set to put the nut on.
The labor savings is huge.
It's not hot either. Look, I'm putting my finger on here.
It's slightly warm to the touch but there's no heat buildup in the metal, like it would be on an abrasive chop saw.
So it doesn't matter; stainless, zinc plated alloy, all of it cuts just fine in larger diameters.
However, I was cutting this threaded rod today and I just wanted to show you that the blade grabbed the product.
It grabbed it and brought it up into the shroud area.
You can see how chopped up the threaded rod is.
Granted, I just cut 700 pieces of this product and only one got caught up in the saw,
but it also can be very dangerous. It can throw that at you and you could get hurt.
So you've got to make sure you wear protective gloves and eye protection,
along with ear protection.
I just wanted to show you that anything small or tiny, such as #4, #6, or #8 diameters can get dangerous.
The saw runs at such a low rpm, it wants to grab the product when they're too small in diameter like these.
These are our #6-32 threaded rods.
They're very small and thin.
When you go to cut this, even if you put it in a brace, it will grab the stock.
It will actually rip it or bend it right out of the vise.
So I wanted to give you a heads up on that.
I'm using the standard steel saw blade here. There is another blade that I haven't tried yet.
That's this all-purpose saw blade. You are supposed to be able to cut everything with this.
The most important thing when changing a blade is to remove the power.
Never have the unit plugged in while you're changing a blade. It's just not safe.
I have a new blade here that we opened up already.
Each machine typically has a lock down to keep it in the closed position.
I'm gonna release the blade to go up.
This particular saw has its own allen key attached to it. Most machines today have them.
That makes it simpler to change the blade.
The key fits the door here. We just flip that up and on the inside here,
I'll spin this around to show you, there's a little button that you push down.
If you can't see it, it's right there. You push that button to lock the blade.
You can see it's locked.
I'm gonna take my finger off of it and now you can see I can turn it.
Push the button down, lock it, and put the tool in counterclockwise. Take this piece out.
There's a washer, there's your screw. Pull that retaining washer off.
Let it slide up. Now what you're going to have to do is pull the guard up and then slide the blade out.
Pull that right out. I'll get my new blade.
Make sure you're putting the correct size in when you're doing this.
This is a fourteen inch blade. You'll see on the blade here it tells you the blade rotation.
That's the rotation or the direction that the teeth should flow in.
So this is counter clockwise and this machine runs counter clockwise.
So the arrows should be going in that direction to install the blade properly.
If you put it in backwards, then you're gonna have a situation where the blade will not cut your material.
Let the guard down and push it in there.
Some blades come with a spacer (Arbor reducer). This blade fits the armature just fine,
but you can get some blades that will have a different armature hole that'll be larger.
Then you have to use the spacer. In this situation, we don't have to.
Put the blade retainer washer back on, put the screw back into this locking washer,
and hand tighten. Push that button again, snug it up, give it a tug, and tighten it.
That's it. Give it a spin with your hand, make sure it flows fine.
Close the shield, put the tool back so you can find it next time, and that's it.
Well I sliced some of it. I guess I didn't lay it out, but you see I sliced the head off.
No problamo.
Okay now I'm gonna pop that screw out with my hands-like that. There it is.
You can see I sliced that head right off with no problem.
Awesome.