Budapest is a city built on a bevy of thermal springs - 123 of them –
and people have been ‘taking the waters’, as they say, for many, many centuries,
at least since the 4th century BC.
There are plenty of baths to choose from and each has its own distinct feeling.
I visited three of Budapest’s top baths to see how each one is unique
and, in this video, I’m going to show you and share my experience and tips.
I hope this video will make visiting go more smoothly
so all you have to do is enjoy.
If you’re interested in my other videos from Budapest I’ll link them as well.
I’m going to start with the Art Nouveau style Gellert Baths
which are part of the Gellert Hotel that opened in 1918.
It’s on the Buda side of the Danube River and looms large as you walk towards it.
Beware that you don’t enter through the front hotel entrance, however,
but through the side.
There are lots of signs there to direct you
which means that we weren’t the only ones to make this mistake.
The actual entrance has an impressive interior with columns, statues, and stained glass.
Like all the baths we visited, you get a little bracelet that gets you in and out
of the pool areas and lockers.
You scan your bracelet to get through the entry turnstile
and then walk down a long, tiled hallway that sounds a little bit like being underwater.
There are little circular windows along the wall that look a bit like port holes
and they look out onto one of the pools so you can see people swimming past.
The windows are lit with multi-coloured lights that cycle through a rainbow of colours.
The change rooms here feel like organized chaos.
As you walk down the long corridors you’ll see doors on either side
that are private rooms called cabins.
You can pay extra for these cabins where you can change and leave your things.
Paying less, however, will get you a locker in a common changeroom which is what we did.
The lockers aren’t that big so don’t bring too much stuff if you’re planning to use one.
There are different pools indoors and outdoors at Gellert.
The largest of the outdoor pools was closed when we were there but it is open in better weather.
They have a model of it so we could at least see what it looks like.
Another outdoor pool was open so we visited there first
and this was also the first time I realized I didn’t have flip flops and I wished I did.
Not only was it was really cold on the ground outside
but having flip flops anywhere in the baths is a really good idea.
We were there after dark and the exterior of the building was illuminated which was really nice.
If you want to actually swim instead of sitting
you can do that back inside the swimming pool.
Not, however, if you don’t have a bathing cap, which we didn’t.
This pool is surrounded by columns and has those circular windows and lights
that you see from the entry hall.
When you’re finished swimming there are water spouts you can sit under
and there’s also a second floor balcony that overlooks this pool.
You can spread out there in a lounge chair
and there’s also a restaurant to grab a snack or a drink.
At Gellert there’s also a large area where you can get massages done,
use the sauna or steam room,
or dunk in a really cold bath.
You’ll notice in some areas – like going in and out of the sauna or some of the pools –
that there are these little water troughs you have to walk through to rinse your feet.
My favourite part of the Gellert Baths was a large room covered in decorative tiles
with a pool on either side.
It’s really echo-y which is maybe why there’s a sign stipulating silence -
but nobody was obeying that rule.
Overall, Gellert was a great introduction to Budapest bath culture
but it also left us wanting more.
Not far from Gellert, on the Buda side of the city as well, are the Rudas Baths.
I was really excited to go there because the Turks built a bath there in 1566
which is still in use today.
The Rudas Baths are separated into three distinct parts
and, unfortunately for us, the old Turkish part was only open to women when we were there.
And while this is great because it was actually only open to men for a very long time,
Marc and I wanted to enjoy together so we decided to visit the other parts of the bath
that were open to both men and women.
Before you visit, make sure you look ahead
and see when certain areas are restricted so that you don’t miss out.
You can see on the board in the entryway what is open and how much it costs.
We went to the ‘Wellness’ baths which are very contemporary feeling.
On our way to that area we also passed a large lane pool
where swimming lessons were going on.
The Wellness baths don’t feel private at all
because they’re at street level with huge windows where cars and people are passing by.
The area is pretty small but includes pools with waters that feel warm, really hot, and cold.
Marc braved the super hot water which was too much for me.
I sometimes get headaches from really hot water – does that ever happen to you?
Maybe it’s just me.
It was 42 degrees and a sign suggests not spending more than five minutes in there.
Marc wanted some water afterwards
and they have these cool water fountains with a ram head design that you can drink from.
The baths make you feel really thirsty
so I’d actually suggest bringing your own water bottle with you to stay hydrated.
One of the larger pools has water fountains that turn on every so often
and it’s so nice to just sit or stand underneath it
and let the force of the water massage your neck and back.
It’s the worst, though, when you’re so into it and then the water turns off
and you have to wait for it to start again.
I have to admit that I was a little bit disappointed at the Rudas baths
because I’d been expecting to see the historic Turkish baths
and the wellness area lacked the charm I was really craving.
But then we went up to the roof and this made it all worth it.
There’s a large circular pool up there
with a stunning front row view of the city, river, and bridges.
The pool has this lovely curved design that almost looks like a crown
and looks beautiful with light flickering on it.
Once we discovered the rooftop we spent the rest of our time up there.
Luckily it wasn’t too crowded and we sat for around two hours.
The combination of the fresh air, the hot water, and that tranquil view
made me sink into this super deep feeling of relaxation
and I actually fell asleep floating in the pool.
Marc was using the GoPro and there’s this shot I find hilarious
where you just see my legs floating there totally motionless as I’m sleeping in the water.
I’ll never forget that calm feeling of waking up afloat in a hot pool on a Budapest rooftop.
For me, those are the unexpected moments that make travelling so amazing.
The third place we went is on the Pest side of the river located in City Park.
The Szecheyni Baths were built in 1913
and as you walk through the park it feels more like walking up to a palace than a spa.
Columns hug the buildings curves and the golden yellow colour feels regal.
There are graceful statues that dot the building
and a Hungarian flag waves at you outside the entrance.
The palatial feeling continues inside with detailed ceilings and carvings.
Szechenyi has 15 thermal baths and 3 swimming pools
but there’s also a ‘beer spa’ where you sit in little pools for two
soaking in thermal waters and beer ingredients
while also served beer to drink.
Szecheyni also has pool parties on Saturday nights
so look at the calendar ahead of time if you want to go.
The large lap pool takes centre stage in the outdoor area
and there are two smaller swimming pools on either end.
I just love how this looks from way up in the sky.
You can see the scale of it.
One of the pools has a large spiral part where water pushes you around in a giant swirl.
You can paddle to speed up or just let the water gently carry you around and around.
It really does push you.
Yeah.
Marc and I had a lot of fun being pushed around the spiral.
It’s fun.
Yeah.
It feels sort of like a pepped up lazy river that can make your stomach flip after a while.
This pool also has jets that push up from the bottom that are fun to play in.
The best is to balance on top of one and let the water massage your feet -
very into massages, as you can see.
The pool on the opposite side is where people traditionally sit to play chess at the side.
There’s also a big fountain that sprays water from a statue.
We had fun playing with the GoPro again underwater, like Marc having a tea party –
did you guys play that as a kid?
I definitely did.
I personally have to plug my nose when I go underwater.
I don’t know if I’m the only adult who does that still but it was still really fun.
The outdoor baths are charming day or night but it takes on a different feeling after dark
when the steam rising off the hot pools is exaggerated
and the lights have this hazy halo that brings everything into soft focus.
The steam also makes it feel more private
because you can’t see all the people around you which is nice.
Indoors is a maze of connected rooms with pools
and they vary in size, depth, and temperature.
To get in and out you’ll walk through a water trough again.
The tiles, colours, and symmetry make it really easy to feel
like you’ve walked onto the set of a Wes Anderson film
and, to be honest, that happens quite frequently in Budapest.
Don’t commit to a location until you take a look around, though,
because you might find a pool you like better.
There are also showers that spray hot and cold water as the colours change.
Marc was afraid it was going to turn cold, which was a valid fear.
All three of the baths we visited in Budapest felt quite different, as you can see,
and in my opinion, the outdoor baths at Szecheyni are best,
the indoor baths at Gellert are best,
and Rudas has the best view of the city.
If you only have time for one, though, I’d make it Szechenyi.
The prices vary at all the baths depending on where and when you go, how long you stay,
and if you want a locker or cabin, for example,
but in general you can expect to pay ballpark $26CAD or $20USD.
Really important is to bring your own flip flops, towel, bathing suit, and bathing cap
to avoid having to buy or rent them.
Make sure also to check opening hours ahead
and whether certain baths are restricted on certain days or times.
As a general rule, I’d say going early or late is a good way to avoid the biggest crowds.
Give yourself lots of time to enjoy the different parts of the baths and really relax.
I’d say two hours at the very minimum
but know that you’ll probably want to stay longer once you actually get in there.
I also suggest exploring a little when you first arrive just to get an overview
so you don’t spend all your time in one area
and then realize you’ve run out of time to experience others.
Also check whether one section of the baths closes earlier than another,
like the indoor and outdoor areas might open and close at different times.
Thermal baths are an essential part of Budapest’s past and its present
and I highly recommend visiting at least one if you’re in the city.
I think it’s the perfect way to wind down after a day of wandering.
I hope you enjoyed this video and find it helpful.
Marc and I made a series of videos about our trip to Budapest
about all sorts of things so I’ll link those in the description box below
and I’m curious which of these three baths looks most enticing to you
so leave me a comment and let me know what you think.
Thanks for watching!