welcome back guys today I'll be covering removal and installation of bearings now
this could be on crank cases suspension components wheel bearings linkages you
name it and basically all you need is a few simple things and knowledge about
expansion and contraction here we have a set of crankcases off as Suzuki RM250
and i've already popped bearings out I covered that in the video a few weeks
ago and I'll actually drop those clips in this video for you guys that haven't
seen it so why don't we start with that how I'm gonna do this is by dropping the
crank cases and believe there's a bearing on this cover - yep drop them in
the oven over here at 350 degrees heat them up for about a half hour and how
this is gonna work is the aluminum which the cases are made of expands at a
faster rate than the steel that is the material the bearings and those bearings
should just drop right out so this method is a lot less damaging and a
stressful in the crank cases compared to just hammering them out now before I get
started I'm going to pull out the stopper place that hold the bearings in
place it looks like I got a few on this case - before you pop out those bearings
you want to make note of which way the bearings are facing you can see this one
has a seal on this side other side does not same with this one here on the other
crank case one thing to make note of is this bearing has a lip on it see right
around the edge of it so that way it's held in with those stopper plates got
some aluminum foil laid down inside the oven here to catch those bearings as
they start to drop out alright let's give her 30 minutes see what happens I
just heard a loud clunk in the oven I think he's bearing they're starting to
fall out oh yeah countershaft one popped out already
see how this right case is looking oh two bearings sitting there should be
able to just pop those ones out with a little tap
that is freakin sweet got one more bearing right here oh this is hot
sometimes you can just pick it up and drop it bearing will come out yeah we're
gonna have to use the puller on that one
yeah that method works pretty dang good that'll save you from a lot of hassle
and potential damage to your cases the bearings for the clutch arm which are
usually way down inside that hole I've already got em out but I was able to
pull those out with the blind bearing puller now if you guys are interested in
picking up one of these pullers they're super handy for crankcases wheel
bearings linkage bearings anything like that super handy did have but I will
link it down below alright time to pop some fresh bearings in for the
transmission bearings I'm going to pot rods this is a pretty complete kit comes
with all the bearings except for the crankshaft main bearings I've picked up
this kit from rocky mountain now for the main bearings I would HIGHLY highly
recommend going with OEM these are genuine Suzuki also from Rocky Mountain
pretty important to have a high quality bearing for the crankshaft now for
installing the bearings we're going to use a pretty similar method as we use
for removing them we're gonna heat up the crankcase cool down the bearing
that'll expand the crankcase the aluminum and shrink the bearing and
those will just drop right in now the coating I apply it on the crank cases is
a seracote clear MC 5100 it's good up to 400 so I'm gonna heat these cases up to
300 over in the oven and then for the bearing I'm gonna place it on some dry
ice which you can get at pretty much any grocery store and that'll really cool it
down and those will just pop right in so I'm gonna start with the right case and
before I begin I need to make sure I know which way these bearings are going
in this is where it'd be handy to have before pictures for the crankshaft main
bearings they can go either way they're the same on either side but one
side has some markings and I always like to have those facing in now for the
training bearings some have a seagull on one side nothing on the other so you
definitely want to make sure you know the orientation before you start heating
things up so while that crankcase is heating up in the oven I'm going to cool
down the bearings so I'm going to put the bearings in a ziplock bag along with
the dry ice here this is like $2 worth is at the grocery store and make sure
those bearings are in direct contact with the ice that'll cool them down
really quick also you want to have a hammer and a set up to help punch those
bearings in in case they don't go in right away that is so weird you guys
hear that those bearings are just squealing inside of there must be
cooling down pretty quick all right the case is up to temp we are gonna have to
move pretty quickly here we're gonna start with the main bearing you line it
up make sure we're going in straight drop right there give it a little tap
this mixture go up the tranny bearings now that drops ready she's seated see
we've got another one right here got one more and this one goes with the seal
facing toward the inside all right that was pretty simple and you don't want to
forget those retaining clips that hold the bearings in place pop those in as
soon as you can also with the temperature difference in the bearing
and the crank case you're going to end up with some condensation so I'd
recommend throwing in some gear oil or whatever oil using in the engine got
some here in this little bottle and squirted it in work it in so that way we
stay rust free now for the retainer screws you want to
make 100% sure you throw some blue or red loctite on them
you don't want those things coming loose all right system work on the left case
first up is the main bearing stricken spacer won't stay in I'm not to clamp it
in oh boy things that need some help yeah I think
just didn't want to go in straight so it needs a little extra help there now for
the counter shaft bearing you want to make sure this little lip is facing out
that is for the retaining clips try to get this thing in the street always
helps to have a nice set of long needle nose all right we're just gonna have to
whack on it here all right all the bearings are in and seated lubed up
ready to go got the retaining clips in now the needle bearings are the tough
ones to get in there's really no easy way to get those in you just got a cool
them as much as you can and pretty much just have to resort to tapping them in
now on the right case I missed one bearing here that is for the governor
shaft see hot rods kit didn't come with it so I have to buy that om and pop that
in later probably what I'll do is just heat up the case with the torch put the
bearing on dry ice and it should just slide right in now if you guys don't
have a dedicated oven for this stuff you can use the torch to heat up the case
although you might run into some warping issues and then just pop your bearings
in your regular freezer that should create a big enough temperature
difference to this drop those bearings in although heating the case up in the
oven and using dries for the bearings makes a huge huge difference now with
all the bearings in it's a good time to pop in some seals as well so I'm gonna
pop in the counter shaft shift shaft clutch arm seals wait to do the crank
seal a little later I might need to heat up that bearing to help slide that crank
through now for seals I've got tusk brand from Rocky Mountain should be the
entire oil seal kit now this is a very budget-friendly
option really good on the wallet and they are great quality as well so let's
test them out and actually for the crank seals I decided to go with om Suzuki as
well dab a little oil on the outside of the seal here help us slide in place a
little easier and I'm only going to push these in until they are level with the
surface of the case you can use a block of wood to help level them out see them
all the way move over to the ship shaft seal and this bottle is pretty handy
allows you to just squirt out a little bit of oil on a 10-4 even called I found
it on Amazon it's called like a something to do with like RC cars I
believe sweet those things went in pretty smooth
now something I just noticed with these seals is they are stamped SKF on the
side I know if you guys can see that or not right there so it's actually an SKF
seal in a test package which is a great thing every skse live every use has been
just absolute quality so that is a great sign so that's pretty much it for the
cases for today now the next video you guys will see on the channel is of
starting the engine build up I don't know if I showed you guys this yet but I
got the crank back this is the OEM crank with a pro-x rod kit so it has new rod
new bearings all that I sent this out to crank works in Arizona they went through
rebuilt it treated it up so it's all ready to go so I'll be installing the
crank transmission clutch stuff just starting the engine build so guys stay
tuned I got a lot of cool stuff coming your way soon now for all you guys that
are new to the channel or new to this build the rm250 project I am actually
giving this bike away completely free when it's all finished up all you have
to do is go down below in the description click that first link enter
your info you don't have to buy anything there's no crazy sign up plan just
straight up giving the bike away so guys if you have not signed up yet
definitely go down below and click that link and for you guys that have entered
the team prime bike boat contest I have some news regarding that so with all
this crazy stuff regarding the virus I've decided to extend the contest an
extra month originally the build date or the due date was April 15th I've moved
it to May 15th just to help you guys out a little bit I know it's been tough with
travel restrictions trying to source parts some of you guys are out of work
so hopefully this helps you out a little bit and if you're stuck at home for the
next few weeks it'd be a perfect opportunity to spend some extra time
with your bike do some wrenching on it in the shop go riding and I'll be camped
out in the shop for the next few weeks but anyways stay healthy guys and stay
tuned for the next video it'll be a good one thanks for watching and keep it
Prime