A miter saw is an awesome thing. I get a lot of use out of my fold down station. If you
wanna see that build
check that out in the corner. However, my machine only gives me about 6 inches of cutting
width before I have to resort
to the ol flip method. Not only that but it's also tied to my shop. I wouldn't be able to
move the whole station to wherever my project is. And I wouldn't be able to easily remove
the miter saw from its station in order to take that out either. It's time I increased
my cutting width and added some mobility to my
ability. Simple easy style.
Materials.
Some of this.
couple of those.
and a few of these. For a complete list of materials and cuts head to my website. Simply
easy diy dot com. Check the description. I'll have all the links.
I need four spacers a little bit thicker than three quarters of an inch. I should be able
to get that out of these scrap
pieces no problem.
Gluing these together I don't want to deal with a bunch of slipping and sliding when
I'm applying the clamps.
A little table salt helps eliminate most of that issue.
While those glue ups are drying in the clamps I have dug though my scrape bin a little deeper
and come up with these half inch pieces of oak.
I'll rip one piece to an inch and a half. The same width as the spacers I just glued up.
The second piece I'm going to rip a little wider than the first.
Alright my spacer glue ups are dry. I've taken them out of the clamps.
Now I'll cut them down to size.
I've got my four spacers. Those get glued to the underside of the oak pieces I just
ripped to width a moment ago.
Can't forget to salt to taste.
The height of this I have set to accommodate the most common thicknesses I usually deal
with in my shop. That height can
be adjusted by simply making the spacers taller or shorter.
The second rail assembly, as I said earlier, I cut a little wider than the spacer. I'll
just pick a side and flush
the two pieces.
After that has dried. I'll lay my base piece out and just roughly align the two rail assemblies.
Approximately is good enough
for now. Then I'll lay my circular saw in place on top and I want to align the blade
so that when I make my first pass, it's going to take off just a little bit of that rail.
and that should work right their.
Now I'll take a marking gauge and set it from the outside of the base plate and the outside
edge of the corresponding rail.
I'm not setting the end of the gauge against the blade of the circular saw even though
it looks like it here.
Set the saw aside and run a mark with the marking gauge.
The final piece of one of the rail assemblies gets a line of glue. And lined up with that
mark I just ran.
A quick check down the length of the rail confirms I'm good to go.
Now I'll glue that to the base of the circular saw cross cut jig.
This side can just be flushed with the corners since I know my base is square.
Again I'll come back when that is set.
A framing square is going to help me set the rest of my jigs pieces in place.
I'm just going to set this other rail piece in place for reference only. I'm not attaching
it just yet.
This is the piece I need to make sure is square with the first rail assembly I've already
attached. If it's not,
that's going to throw the whole thing off.
I'll set my circular saw back in place to help gauge the approximate width for the two
rail pieces.
Looks like I need to move that second one out just a little bit.
I've got a couple screws set and ready to go in the cross piece already. I'm going to
drive these two screws now.
I don't recommend that. You'll see why later.
Now I'll attach this other side.
Couple clamps and I'll come back later.
Setting my circular saw back in place allows me to just set the other guide rail against
its base plate
and tack in place.
Slowly moving the saw forward a few inches at a time and driving another brad ensures
a smooth and snug fit
for the whole length of the jig.
Ignore what I'm doing with my finger there. You don't see nothing.
Some paste wax for a smooth operation.
The initial cut lays the kerf bed and trims up that rail.
It took a few test cuts along with a couple slight adjustments to get it right at 90 degrees.
That meant I needed to remove one of those screws on the cross piece and reset it in
another spot.
If I hadn't set it earlier I wouldn't of had to do that. A small thing, but a thing nonetheless.
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Until then.