From SwissWatchExpo… Spotlight on: the different dials of the Rolex
Submariner. A quick guide for Submariner fans.
Launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner has a life span of almost 70 years, and literally
has dozens of dial configurations today.
The iconic dive watch has undergone a number of aesthetic changes through decades, giving
us a whole spectrum of Submariner dials that vary in color, text, size, and materials.
Rolex isn’t known to make drastic changes to its core models, so the difference is often
barely visible – such as changing the lume from tritium to Luminova, to jumping from two
to four lines of text.
It can be a lot to remember, especially for someone new to collecting Submariners. To
start with, here’s an overview of the four main dial types of the Rolex Submariner.
The gilt dial is the first type of dial that appeared in the Rolex Submariner line. These
dials are easily identified by the gold text on their surfaces.
Produced by Rolex from the 1950s to 1967, the term “gilt” refers to the gold tone of
the text and other printing, against a mirror-like, glossy black surface. Gilt dials can be seen in
vintage Rolex sport dials, including the Explorer and GMT Master.
What makes this dial so special, aside from its sheer beauty, is that it was achieved
using a highly technical skill called galvanization.
At the time, many watch manufacturers would simply paint over the text and markers on
the dial, but Rolex opted for the more complex route. Gilt dials are actually gold-plated
brass plates underneath, peering through the black gloss.
Gilt production fell out of favor in the late 1960s; and due to their relatively short production
run, gilt dials are the most valuable and sought after among vintage Rolex dials.
In the late 1960s, Rolex shifted from warm gilt dials to the matte dial. Unlike the gilt
dials that they replaced, Rolex’s matte dials have a flat finish.
Matte dials have a grayish black surface with painted on tritium markers and white text.
While they’re also found on vintage Rolex watches, matte dials tend to have a more contemporary
and utilitarian look than glossy gilt dials.
Several iconic Rolex Submariner references have the matte dial, including the Rolex Red
Submariner; the first Submariner with crown guards reference 5512 (5-5-1-2), and the first
Submariner with 1,000 feet depth rating, the 16800 (16-800).
Matte dials eventually phased out in the mid-1980s and replaced with gloss dials.
Enjoying this video so far? Subscribe to our channel, and get updates on new videos.
Rolex sport models from the mid-1980s onwards sport the gloss dial, which is characterized
by white text and applied white gold hour markers.
Look closely and you’ll see white gold surrounds on the hour markers, giving the timepiece
a more luxurious appearance.
The most popular gloss dials are the classic Submariner Date and the No Date version of
the same generation.
In the transition from matte to gloss dials, Rolex also created a sub-category by accident –
the Spider dial, which has a web-like surface.
As Rolex experimented with new materials, and have not yet perfected the lacquer finish,
it resulted in crazing in some gloss dial models. These dials are certainly interesting
and considered collectible.
The latest generation of Rolex Submariner watches are equipped with the Maxi Dial.
This follows the overall aesthetic of Rolex sport watches featuring larger hour markers
and wider hands.
The term “Maxi Dial” was first introduced in 2013, together with the green 50th Anniversary
Submariner, or the Kermit. Compared to previous generations, Maxi Dials have larger elements
to improve legibility.
Today, Maxi Dials are found on current production Submariners with Cerachrom ceramic bezels.
They are also paired with the “Super Case”, which has fatter lugs, a wider bezel, and
an overall beefier look on the wrist.
Whether you seek a vintage model, or a modern dive watch, there’s a Rolex Submariner dial
to suit your needs.
Which dial is your favorite? Tell us in the comments section. Want to learn more about
Rolex watches? Click on the upper right screen, for our Watch Guides playlist.
Don’t miss out! We launch two videos weekly, on the best and the latest in watches. To
get updates, subscribe to our YouTube channel.