Hey, Paul from Deutsche Auto Parts, today were going to be going over inspecting your
cam follower on a 2.0 TFSI engine as well as installation and removal of the high pressure
fuel pump and installing our sub conversion kit on your vehicle.
Here we have our high pressure fuel pump assembly for 2.0 TFSI engines, few notes of why you
would replace it would be either failure of the pump itself, something internally is a
problem, or most often, its because this cam follower that mounts on like so has worn so
far through that its done damage to the pump itself.
Now a note, an example of this would be here, if you see here this follower has worn completely
through so if this were to be rotting on the engine, it would have caused damage to this
part of the fuel pump which means its not usable anymore and then the cam shaft in the
vehicle would also need to be replaced.
When you are replacing this pump, you are going to have to swap over the fuel pressure
sensor and the Schrader valve and depending on the style of fitting you have here on your
original pump you may need to swap that.
This style uses this barb where you would have a hose that mounts to it, the older versions
used a banjo bolt with a hard line that actually bolted into the bottom of this pump.
If you have that, you're going to have to remove this part and then swap over the other
part to install it on your new pump.
When removing the high pressure fuel pump on a 2.0 TFSI engine were going to start by
removing all of the connectors.
This is going to be the fuel pressure sensor, and then this is for the fuel pump itself
so Im going to start by just pushing back on the connector and removing them.
The next thing we're going to want to do is bleed all of the pressure off from the fuel
pump itself.
Now, these are extremely high pressure so you want to be really careful when you're
working with them that the pressure has been relieved from the system beforehand.
So you get a rag and then you can kind of just push up into here with a small screwdriver,
there's a Schrader valve, you can just push and you'll see it'll release the pressure.
It'll bleed off all the pressure and now we can work with the system.
Next thing we're going to want to do from there is remove this Schrader valve.
This will give us access to this bottom torque screw that holds the fuel pump on.
Without removing this you're going to have a tough time.
And also something, once you crack it loose, this is a 13mm, once you crack it loose you
may want to put the rag back under there 'cause you could leak off any additional fuel and
then maybe some pressure that residually didn't get off.
So there we go.
We want to make sure when we're working with this because it is part of the high pressure
fuel system that you have it somewhere that it's not going to get too dirty, maybe you
can leave your rag up here.
Now we can start by removing the torque screws, the T30 torque screws that mount the pump
to the cylinder head itself.
And you want to be careful that when you're putting these in, you don't strip them or
damage them.
On this vehicle, we are going to be reinstalling our stud kit and what our stud kit is for
is so that if you're checking these periodically that you don't have any problems with stripping.
A lot of times the housing itself that this bolts to is not used to getting the constant
- it's not intended to be taken out so often where a lot of guys check these every 10,000
miles, they weren't intended to be removed that many times so what will happen is they'll
strip the threads on the inside from removing and installing the bolts so many times.
So we can crack that loose and then we can crack this last one loose too and then we
can get to the lines below.
So we can go ahead and get our 17mm, we're using a stubby in here to crack this bottom
line loose, you can probably do this with a regular wrench but a stubby makes it a lot
easier.
And you are going to want to be careful with this nipple here because if you're not careful
you could break it off while you're trying to loosen this up.
Now, lastly we have a banjo bolt fitting here at the bottom.
There are two different styles of this pump, one of them uses a rubber line, the other
one uses a banjo bolt fitting.
The banjo bolt fitting uses a triple square and is much more challenging to get off, which,
unfortunately, we have the banjo bolt fitting so...
here we're going to go ahead and take that off now.
Now we're going to be accessing the banjo bolt on the bottom, that is an 8mm triple
square, we're going to start by removing this PCV hose off because it'll give us a little
more room to work with in there.
This particular vehicle has a catch can system but normally you would have a PCV valve here
so... we're going to remove this hose.
Now what you'll want to do is pry on here a little bit, on the edges to release these
tabs, and then slide this off and get that out of the way.
Now you want to be careful 'cause this hose can be brittle because it is plastic so ... and
you're going to want to slide that out of the way, maybe down a little bit.
That should give you enough room to work with.
So now we have our 8mm triple square that we're going to get in there and we're using
a stubby ratchet because it does give you a little more room to work with.
And you are going to want to make sure before you start trying to loosen this up that you
have it, your triple square, firmly seated in place because if you strip this you're
really going to regret it.
Alright, now that we have our banjo bolt out of the way we're going to want to make sure
that we keep it somewhere safe and now we can finish taking off the T30s that hold this
in place.
'Kay, so here we are, we have our pump off and inside here the high pressure fuel pump
cam follower rides on this part of the fuel pump and then there is our follower in here
in the cylinder head so we can grab our finger and pull it out and we can inspect it.
So if we take a look, we can wipe it off real quick and take a look at how much wear we
have on it.
Alright, so we're going to be installing our stud kits for these, for the bolts that mount
the fuel pump to the vehicle.
Again, the whole point of this is to ensure that these threads here don't get ripped out
from constant removal and installation of the pump.
Once you put these in there, they're fixed and they'll never come out of there again,
you'll just take them off from the side, so now we can go ahead and thread ours in and
we just have the nut mounted in place there at the end and what we should be able to do
is just tighten it up to the point where the studs stops moving and now they're set in
place.
So here we have our new follower, and one thing we're going to want to do when you're
installing a new follower is take a little bit of the excess oil that's down here from
the engine and kind of get it on your finger or our gloves, in this case, and you're going
to want to kind of lube it up a little bit, this will make sure that it's not going in
there dry.
And then we can set that in place.
One last thing we want to mention is when you're installing the fuel pump back in the
vehicle you are going to want to replace this seal right here because it does seal the fuel
pump assembly from the engine oil.
So we can pull that off and throw our new one on and that's another one that you can
kind of lube it up a little bit with the oil just to make sure it slides in place evenly.
And roll that in place and now we can put our fuel pump back on.
You are going to want to clean up any excess oil that you have just to make sure everything
seals.
Alright, when we're ready to install our fuel pump back on to our studs, you - because of
the clearance it's best to get this bottom one on first and then kind of rotate the other
ones in place and then we can get that all mounted in place.
So now we're ready to put our nuts on.
And what you're going to want to do is, we're going to get them all threaded in place, but
you're going to want to tighten them down evenly because there is spring pressure from
this pump so tighten one and then tighten the other and then continue to rotate in a
circle until they've all hit the bottom.
Now that we've gotten that triple square tight we can take this 17 and get it in place.
What you might want to do is just take it and butt the line in place and then slide
the nut up and then tighten it.
And let me tighten this up with a 13.
Don't go crazy tightening it.
And then we can put our plastic cap back in place and we're going to put our PCV back
in place and all you've got to do with that is get in place, push it on, you'll hear it
snap in place.
You can plug in our two electrical connectors.
Now at this point, this car has an after-market intake but the only thing you would have left
to do would be put on the engine cover if you have the factory intake on the vehicle
and you're all set.